tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-739633252087106402024-03-26T05:49:07.291-07:00Studio 939Adventures in DIY for audio recording and bass guitarschungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-84526824295230496102019-08-25T22:42:00.000-07:002019-08-26T13:20:34.730-07:00Cheap Chinese Custom Loop Water Cooling META<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=73963325208710640" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="about:invalid#zClosurez" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>One of the most commonly offered bits of advice concerning open loop water cooling for PC's is to always use the best possible loop components possible or severe consequences will follow. This mentality compounded with the fact that the majority of builders who decide to do custom water cooling are using higher end components that are very expensive to replace, can create a somewhat paranoid mindset that reinforces the exclusion of all but the priciest parts options.<br />
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Several online tech personalities have dabbled with low cost water cooling products, but these experiments while providing some helpful information, have never been serious attempts to find a real-world solution that is an actual viable option for long-term use on high end gaming computers. For the most part, these have been parody in nature or utilized some parts with critical flaws. In the end, the conclusions that are drawn reinforce the prevailing opinion. . . Do not do it! I respectfully disagree and would like to argue my case.<br />
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Over the past couple of years, I have been building, experimenting, and learning about all types of gaming PC's and one of the funnest discoveries has been firing up a system under custom loop cooling and seeing silly-low temperatures across the CPU and GPU which allow for bigger overclocks that can extend all the way up to voltage limitations as opposed to thermal ones. I would love to put that thrill within reach of the average gaming PC builder.<br />
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It is my belief that highly effective, reliable, expandable, and easily repairable custom loop water cooling can be done at a much lower cost than the majority opinion in the PC community. It could even be characterized as "affordable". . . a word seldom if ever associated with custom water cooling. After a lot of testing, I present here what I feel to be a META for putting together the cheap, Chinese water cooling loop.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Finding good data about some of the components that I am interested in proved extremely difficult. For the most part, people are advised to "just spend a little more" and buy a name brand solution, but in the world of budgeting a custom water loop, the reality is death by a thousand cuts. An extra $5 for each fitting, and extra $30 for one of the best go-to pumps, an extra $8 per fan, and you can very easily spiral out of control to a $400-$800 price tag for a cooling solution which puts the entire endeavor out of reach for anyone who is actually constrained by their budget. Fortunately, the reverse is also true, but seldom discussed or advocated. With some reckless experimentation and careful testing for validation, we can claw back at the overall loop cost piece by piece.<br />
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Speaking of testing and validation, while I am pretty new compared with some people who test and operate in this tech space professionally, I have made an honest attempt at long-term testing of the critical components to try and validate my recommendations, and I will briefly describe some of the test systems before diving into a full component recommendation.<br />
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The first PC illustrated here is my daily driver which has gone through three major upgrades on the same loop. The original configuration pictured here is running an X5680 CPU and a GTX 980TI with water cooling on the CPU, GPU, and northbridge. This was my first stab at the cheap-Chinese loop META and it failed to be cheap due to the small form factor case which required far too many fittings to functionally route the loop and did not allow for large enough radiators to maximize cooling performance for the dollar. But, while it failed the "cheap" test, it worked well for noise and cooling performance especially given the tiny form factor.<br />
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This build was subsequently reconfigured to a Ryzen 5 2600 and MSI GTX 1070 Seahawk EKWB, which was miles more energy efficient than the original configuration and ran amazingly cool, to its current configuration with a Ryzen 5 3600 and an EVGA 1080TI hydro copper. I use this machine daily, and I am typing on it right now! The core of the cooling components remain original and of the "cheap Chinese" variety.<br />
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My next example is another X58 PC with an X5675 and another GTX 980TI. This system pulls upwards of 550 watts from the wall under gaming loads at the 4.6Ghz overclock which is quite a significant thermal load to contend with. The price performance for the cooling system is definitely more on target as the case was larger allowing for fewer fittings to be used, but the 280 radiator was sourced used and the outstanding BeQuiet silent wings 2 140mm fans that push air through the main radiator were acquired on a one-off deal for $5 each, so I do not consider the configuration readily repeatable, but the build confirmed in my mind that a truly affordable configuration could be achieved. Having tried a few different CPU blocks, I started figuring out a few poor performing options and a few gems.<br />
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The next system is my main reliability test. This is a small mining rig with three GPU's on the water loop connected to a 360 radiator. This system has been running 24/7 for nearly nearly 2 years now at full thermal load. Up until about two weeks ago, it was running two GTX 1070s and one GTX 1080TI on the water loop. It is open air and lives in my living room so I know the noise profile at full load is quite acceptable. After running with zero maintenance for the entire time, I recently overhauled the loop to yank the 1080ti and transfer it to my daily driver replacing it with a 1070 on the rig. I also changed the tubing from clear to rubber as the tubes were getting severely clouded and gunking up the internals. I was also starting to see algae growth at the top of the reservoir probably because the system sits on a window sill exposed to direct sunlight. This system continues to run 24/7 on the same original pump and fans with no problems yet to report.<br />
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My primary loop testing concern for the mining rig was to verify that the pump would be reliable and reasonably quiet long term. There was simply no information online showing more than a few minutes duration test of this pump. While a sample size of 3 units is not comprehensive by any means, it is miles better than no data whatsoever, so hopefully I've uncovered something reasonably viable.<br />
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I preempt my description of my recommended META parts with these stepping stone examples because I wanted to show that I have been putting real components under long-term testing to validate my specific parts recommendations, and I know the lynch mob will probably be coming after me for trying to persuade people to go for lower cost solutions!<br />
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With that out of the way, let's just dive right into the heart of the matter which is how cheap are we talking about here?<br />
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The test system that I assembled here is a CPU only loop with two 360mm radiators. From a price to performance perspective, my goal was to land in the ballpark of a high quality 360 AIO cooler but be in the performance and reliability ball-park of a top tier custom loop solution. Generally, 360 AIO's range from $120 to $200. This cheap Chinese loop solution is right around $200, but if we were to delete one of the radiators, two fittings, and 3 fans, we would be right at $135.95 and directly cost comparable to a mid-level AIO. The reason I decided to use two radiators is to demonstrate that the custom loop can scale cooling efficiency dramatically which an all in one solution cannot do. Two options are represented in the cost breakdown, and I will explain in more detail later, but I ended up testing two different CPU waterblock options and I found both to be viable and interesting.<br />
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Most of the core water-cooling specific components were purchased from AliExpress.com or Ebay.com . The way these cheap Chinese products are distributed is one or several factories produce them and it is very hard to figure out where that actually is or if multiple factories are making the same spec parts, but they are then sold through hundreds of different companies and sellers that may or may not apply their own branding to the product. In the end, if you look long enough through AliExpress, you will find the same item appearing over and over again under different branding in different shops. Once you learn what the item you are after want looks like and zero in on the commonly used descriptions, you can search for the lowest price. Pricing shifts all the time, so treat my list as a guideline.<br />
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At the heart of the cooling system is the pump, and I'm using an SC-600 pump. I do not even know who the actual manufacturer is of this pump, but a search in either Aliexpress or Ebay for "SC-600" will get the ball rolling. I have purchased these through 3 different vendors and my experience has been good so far on all three samples. The cheapest mounting option is coupling the pump directly to the bottom of the reservoir which saves a few fittings and brackets, so that is what I am using. This certainly does not move as much water or run as quiet as a premium Laing D5 pump, but I feel it moves enough water, is quiet enough, and in the 3 samples I have used, is reasonably reliable. The low cost also allows for a spare to be purchased for minimal down-time in the event of a failure.<br />
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NOTE!!! I would not recommend plugging this or any pump directly into your motherboard's CPU fan header even though the connector fits. In the past, I have cut the power leads off of the 3 pin header and crimped on a Molex connector to access 12V directly from the PSU, but in this build, I connected this pump to my PWM fan hub which is powered directly from a Molex connector. The center port of the pump is intake and the outside port is exit.</div>
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For head dissipation, I am using two 360 copper radiators. The cheap radiators from China seem to be regular 25mm thickness 120, 240, 360, and 480 units. 280mm radiators are very difficult to find, and thicker core radiators are very expensive, so the META is to use 120mm based units. Because cases that fit 480 radiators are rare, large and expensive, the 360 hits the optimum level of cooling performance per dollar for a budget. Another consideration is thicker radiators or push/pull solutions yield diminishing returns so the the best way to go is to run standard thickness radiators and as much of it as practical. So, to optimize performance, I went with the reasonably priced (I got it for $60 on sale) Fractal Design Define S case that can accommodate two 360 radiators. As I see it, any copper radiator if properly maintained should last a lifetime in PC application, and it can move from build to build as needed so I went with copper instead of the cheaper aluminum options to avoid any question of galvanic corrosion associated with mixing different metals in the loop. These two radiators were the cheapest copper 360mm units I could find on AliExpress and were sourced from two different vendors. The paint is different between the two. One is glossy and one is matte. No guarantees what flavor will arrive in the mail.</div>
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The fans I am using are the relatively new Arctic P12 PWM fans purchased in 5 piece "value pack" from Amazon.com. I have used dozens of the more established Arctic F12 PWM fans in all kinds of builds also purchased in "value packs" five at a time. I have purchased from Amazon.com, Newegg.com, and Ebay.com at various times depending on who has the best price at the time. All of the precursor cheap loop builds described above used the F12 fans. They carry a 6 year warranty, offer mid-range performance in open air, radiator, and air cooler applications, are very cheap ranging from $4.50-$6.50 each in the value packs, and run very quiet when set to low and medium PWM speeds. While a premium fan like a Noctua could push more air, the overall configuration that I am using is robust enough to not really need that extra boost to be extremely effective, and I will hopefully be able to run well under maximum fan speed even under heavy loads. Another advantage is these fans can be chained together directly if needed, but I usually install a PWM fan hub also from AliExpress so that I power my fans directly from the power supply and tap the control PWM signal only from the motherboard. The side benefit is I can also easily grab power for lighting, pump, and other things from the fan hub as I have never needed all 10 connections on the hub for fans. Another really nice note about the manufacturer is, I recently received one Arctic F12 fan which was not working correctly and had unusual bearing noise. Arctic immediately sent out a replacement fan without requiring a physical return of the defective fan (shipping would cost just as much as the fan) so my experience with the company is that they stand behind their product and do not play games with their warranty policies. </div>
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Connecting everything together are G1/4 thread 3/8" ID 1/2" OD compression fittings for soft tubing. These come in silver and black flavors, and to my eye, the finish quality on the silver is just awful, so I'm opting for black. This fitting choice for my cheap loop META is driven primarily by price. At around $1.00 per fitting, they really drive down the overall system cost. I was looking for something functional, reliable, and easy to use at the lowest possible price point. This compression fitting design is simple and tolerant to looser machining and quality control. Other sizes are available but are much more expensive. After three builds and multiple system changes on these fittings, I feel they are highly reliable and durable. As with most of the items I am using, these fittings are found from tons of different vendors on AliExpress and Ebay. I've purchased from multiple vendors and the only major difference I have seen is some come with a soft green O-ring seal and others come with a harder black rubber seal. Make sure to get the black rubber seals as they give you more adjustment wiggle room when tightening everything down. The green ones tend to "smear" if you over-tighten and the rings deform. Also, if you don't tighten the green ones enough, they are prone to shift. I find harder black rubber O-rings are easier to work with. For end caps, the green ones work perfectly fine. If I get a batch with the wrong seal type, I shift the green O-rings over to the end caps and put the black O-rings on the compression fittings and angle fittings.<br />
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For tubing, I am using 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD EPDM rubber tubing and/or Norprene tubing of the same dimensions. I sourced mine from McMaster-Carr Supply Company and it is sold by the foot. The EPDM is softer and more flexible while the Norprene is tougher and a bit more stiff-walled. Both types have worked well and I honestly don't have a preference. In a small case with tighter bends, the EPDM works better, but in a large case, it makes less of a difference in that regard. I do find EPDM to also grab tighter to the compression fitting although I have had not problems whatsoever with the Norprene tubing coming off of the compression fitting after it is tightened down. I opted for rubber type tubing because all clear, flexible tubing has plasticizers inside that eventually leach into the water and gunk up the water in the system. This is a non-issue with rubber tubing, and we have the option to run robust ethylene glycol based coolant or even low-cost long-lasting automotive coolant without any problems or adverse reactions with the tubing. Over time, my experience, and the prevailing consensus is that clear flexible tubing will cloud and discolor over time, and I like sticking with low to no maintenance solutions that can run maintenance free for years.<br />
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The biggest down-side to this tubing size is the thin tubing walls. This causes the tubing to kink pretty easily and I cannot make very tight turns in the loop. Here we can see EPDM at just about maximum bend radius before folding.<br />
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There are many ways to deal with this problem, but the cheapest way I found to prevent kinks in the middle of the inevitable bends in the system is to use a short length of clear 3/4" OD 1/2"ID tubing and cut a bunch of little rings out of them with scissors.<br />
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These rings can then slide over the top of the rubber 1/2" tubing and we can position them where needed in the turn to prevent the tubing walls from collapsing.<br />
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We really don't need much of the 3/4" x 1/2" clear flexible tubing so the cost is negligible. But in the inevitable situation where we cannot make the required turn in the case with our flexible tubing, we can use 90 degree and 45 degree G1/4 thread swivel fittings. At around $1.80 each, these are nearly double the price of compression fittings, so using a large, spacious case with multiple routing options will help reduce the number of swivel fittings required in the loop, but these are still cheap enough that I keep a stash of each type on hand just in case. AliExpress has these along with couplers and end caps. I usually use the search terms "g1/4" and "90" or "45" to find these on the website. Again, these should be available from multiple vendors so shop around for the best shipped price from Aliexpress and Ebay. Again, be aware that these sometimes come with green seals. Most of the time the product photos will show the differences, but the photos do not always match the delivered product.<br />
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I also found a T-fitting and drain valve on AliExpress.<br />
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The cheapest options I found for reservoirs are acrylic 50mm diameter tube type units with POM plastic top and bottom caps. Larger diameter tube type reservoirs are available, but again, they cost a lot more, and at the end of the day, the reservoir just needs to hold the water and not leak or chemically react with the coolant. The type that I am using in this build has a single fill port on top and the main intake and exit ports are at the bottom of the reservoir with a divider plate to divert bubbles out of the flow path.<br />
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These 50mm diameter reservoirs come in various tube lengths. I will be using a 190mm length tube. Taller tubes are available, but jump up in price, and I want to stay with the cheapest options that work. These reservoirs also come in two different water flow designs. There is the bottom feeding type that I am using here, and a kind with an intake tube at the top of the reservoir with a little "straw" that sticks down from the top cap along with two ports at the top. One for intake (with the straw attached), and one for fill port.<br />
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If using the type with the top intake and tube, use a longer overall tube length because going with a short reservoir in that configuration will have bubbles pass straight down through the pump and have a hard time bleeding the loop. If you must use a very short reservoir, go with the bottom feeding type (right side in photo above).<br />
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There are a dizzying a mount of CPU block options coming from Chinese factories. I am selecting based on two simple criteria. I am looking for a block with a metal jet plate and very thin water channels (.3mm). The cheapest block I found that meets these two criteria is the "Freezemod" branded unit shown here. It has .3mm water channel cuts and a metal jet plate. . . and costs $15.50 . The thermal performance of this specific CPU block absolutely impressed me in previous builds. So, for this META build, I went with the Freezemod block to start. I really wanted to showcase this configuration because the juvenile side of me wanted to say, "I put a $15.50 waterblock on a $500 CPU and it's AWESOME!".<br />
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Without spoiling the final results too much, I feel the Freezemod block pictured above is one of the best value products available and I would have no problem running it in my test built permanently, but with one of the hottest running CPU's available and more radiator surface than I had previously tested with, I suspected the block itself in my specific test system became a performance bottleneck after I ran my thermal tests. There was only one way to get to the bottom of it, so I went ahead and ordered a Barrow CPU block at $26.49 to run a second round of tests to compare against. Indeed, the Barrow exhibited significant thermal improvements so I will present both data sets as I think both blocks are valid options. I also feel these two blocks straddle the tipping point for price/performance. One is probably the absolute cheapest solution that will perform well, and the other starts to rival high dollar name-brand parts for build quality and performance. Spending any more may not yield much in the way of better thermal performance unless the design is significantly different like a direct die contact setup.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=73963325208710640" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="about:invalid#zClosurez" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>So, what does an extra $10 buy in the world of cheap Chinese water blocks? We get addressable RGB lighting in the Barrow block for starters. But more importantly, we have better machining, finish quality, and most importantly, we have thinner and deeper water micro-channels as well as a larger overall contract plate which nets significantly more surface area for thermal transfer between the copper plate and the coolant.<br />
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While this is not meant to be a comprehensive guide to building a custom water loop, I will go through a few interesting points in system build process. For my testing, I will be running a Ryzen 9 3900X CPU on a Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite motherboard.<br />
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The mounting hardware on the Freezemod CPU block is very straight forward to install.<br />
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I have been using Kingpin Cooling Kpx thermal compound for all of my things lately, and it seems to be working fine. I have zero experience with sub ambient and liquid nitrogen cooling so I am not concerned at all with my thermal paste freezing, cracking, and failing at those extremes, but the Kingpin stuff was simply cheaper than the Gelid GC extreme that I was using previously at quantity, and from what I gathered online, performance is on par or better in regular use cases like mine. So, I went with it.<br />
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Spread method seems to be the implied best method for application given the included paste applicator so I went with it.<br />
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While this write-up does not center around LED lighting and aesthetics in general, on a purely practical level, I like to have illumination on my waterblock so I can easily see at a glance if there is any debris, leaks, or other problems at the block, so I soldered up a simple white LED and resistor for the waterblock.<br />
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The Freezemod block has a slot for the lighting to slide into under the metal plate, and I soldered the resistor in a spot where the LED would be centered in the block. I will put heat shrink tubing around the leads before installation to make sure I don't short anything out.<br />
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After adding 16GB of cheap Hynix 3200mhz CL16 DDR4 RAM and a 512GB NVME drive, the motherboard is ready to install.<br />
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The Fractal Define S is really easy to install a custom loop inside so there are multiple mount slots for the reservoir, but I wanted to use rubber isolators to reduce vibration noise in the system especially because the SC-600 pump running at full 12V without speed control is louder than something like a Laing D5. So, I ended up using some microphone capsule mounts that I have a huge pile of sitting in a box because. . . . well, I import and sell parts for audio microphones and that's just what I had lying around that was rubber and would work.<br />
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I removed the saddle portion of the rubber capsule mount because I won't be mounting a microphone capsule.<br />
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and use an M3 screw to attach the rubber mounts to the bottom of my reservoir brackets.<br />
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The bottom plate accepts M3 screws which I use to attach the reservoir to the PC case. In the Fractal Define S, there are slots available in the correct locations. For other cases, you may need to drill some holes.<br />
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What I wasn't really expecting was for these to fit so easily and to work so exceptionally well in this application. So, shameless plug. . if you want some of these capsule mounts, here's a link. . .<br />
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<a href="https://store.studio939.com/product/34-35mm-capsule-mount" target="_blank">https://store.studio939.com/product/34-35mm-capsule-mount</a><br />
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These are in fact hard to find at in the US at small quantity so feel free to get them from my webstore if you want to give it a try. . . Because there are many types of mounts offered in the webstore, it's REALLY important that you select the option in the drop-down menu:<br />
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"RUBBER TYPE SINGLE HOLE MOUNT 34mm SLOTTED SADDLE"<br />
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Maybe even type in a note in your order that you are using these for PC water cooling and I'll know to pack the correct mount used here.<br />
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When buying the cheapest Chinese radiators you can find, I fully expect to spend some time cleaning them out. I read a few articles online about using a weak Hydrochloric acid solution to really get in there and clean copper radiators so I followed the instruction gleaned from <a href="https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1495977-getting-copper-radiator-squeaky-clean-101-some-chem-101-knowledge.html" target="_blank">this posting on the overclock.net forums</a> and gave it a go.<br />
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I use a strong AC powered aquarium water pump to clean my various blocks and radiators. It just so happens that a tub for baby wipes submerges the pump without using a lot of excess water, so that's what I use. Here, I am using a graduated dropper to add the calculated volume of Muriatic Acid to some distilled water to run through my loop. Again, I followed the directions described in the Overclock.net posting linked above.<br />
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And I ran the solution through my loop for a couple of hours.<br />
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And as expected, the radiators were filthy inside. . . what i also expected but did not happen was the water was supposed to turn green from the acid slightly etching the surface. . . so I guess the science wasn't working exactly as expected.<br />
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So, I went through my more "normal" flushing procedure. Again, people who know a lot better than me can probably show a better methodology, but what I did was first flush tap water through my loops with the pump draining into my bathtub for a few minutes. I figure at the initial cleaning stages, there are way more problems inside the radiators than any contaminants that might be present in the tap water. After this, I filled the radiators half way with 99% isopropyl alcohol and sloshed them around for a few minutes and drained them. After that, I ran the pump with a vinegar solution for about 30 minutes. Then, I flushed it through again with tap water for a few minutes draining out directly into the bath tub. After that, I started flushing the loop with distilled water about 5 times. I used my same cleaning pump submerged inside of the baby wipes container and fill the tub with distilled water and let it run for about 10 minutes. . . drain everything out, and then repeat. Regardless of the specific method or procedures you are comfortable with, these radiators should always be assumed to be very dirty upon delivery and need to be cleaned vigorously.<br />
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With all of the parts prepared, I can mount all of the main components in the case to get an idea of clearances and make a plan for routing my tubing. I will mount a front intake 360 radiator, a top exhaust 360 radiator, and the two 140mm fans that the case came with will be used for intake at the bottom as well as exhaust at the back.<br />
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The reservoir sits very nicely on the rubber isolators and the installation was extremely easy. Because I will be using an MSI 1080TI Lightning Z, the clearance will be tight because the graphics card is so long. Luckily one of the pre-made slots will work and I will not need to drill holes. This is an exceedingly easy case to work inside of!<br />
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Again, as there is plenty of documentation available from people much more capable than me about loop routing, I will not go through all of the fine build details. This write-up is more concerned with getting the information out there about low-cost parts selection as opposed to a build guide. This entire setup is likely route-able without the use of any angled fittings, but to keep things clean especially on the run that is close to the motherboard tray connecting the two radiators, I used fittings to keep the tubing paths hidden and clean. Here, we can see the loop completed.<br />
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Here is the back side of the build with the cables routed and the PWM fan hub that powers the fans, the CPU block LED light, and the water pump.<br />
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A few more details showing some of the routing and component placement.<br />
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Humans Win!<br />
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Upon initial testing, everything was going smoothly with my normal CPU stress testing. The temperatures were exceptionally well controlled on all settings until I fired up Prime95 small FFT test while overclocked to 4.3Ghz all core. I hit a maximum temperature of 93 degrees C at 1.3V which was getting right into dangerous territory for me on an expensive CPU. Many people shy away from Prime95 claiming that it is neither the optimum stability test nor a realistic workload test because the current versions stress the CPU beyond any normal scenario. I like to use it because it is consistent and I like to test for a worst case. In my limited experience, it generates maximum CPU heat. With max temperatures running right up to the thermal junction limit, I wondered if something was wrong and looked into other people testing the 3900X. After digging through dozens of recently released reviews, I could not find anyone running Prime95 small FFT on the chip at all core overclocks. It appeared many reviewers were either using the stock cooler or a 360mm AIO cooling solution for their tests. I can understand that the stock cooler would not have a chance at taming that overclock but a 360 AIO surely can produce some useful results. If Prime95 was mentioned, most reviews brushed it off as an unrealistic test scenario. I did eventually find one test at 4Ghz all core and the temps exceeded 90 degrees C. I tried turning the CPU block 90 degrees to see if the arrangment would help given the specific position of the chiplets in the 3900X package, but the thermal results were the same. Having never used a CPU at this performance tier, my suspicion was that my cooling system was in fact performing quite well, but I decided to go ahead and buy the Barrow CPU block that I knew had a superior design and test it.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=73963325208710640" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=73963325208710640" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Here are the thermal test results that I measured. Cinebench is R15 all core and Prime95. I am using the current version of Prime95 with AVX running running small FFT for maximum heat and CPU load.</div>
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Please note, these are just my raw temperature readings pulled from HWinfo. The waterblocks were tested on different days and while the climate is very stable where I live, these results are not normalized to ambient, but they do show an improvement from the "really bad" 93C to "still pretty bad" 87C on my highest all core overclock in Prime95 and improvements of a few degress all around. But, both blocks will hold the 3900X under thermal junction which is 95C at 4.3Ghz all core overclock! I did not venture to run either of these tests for long duration as I felt the temps combined with current pull were not safe enough for my risk tolerance under Prime95 synthetic loads, but for any other daily task, both CPU blocks are perfectly fine in my test system. VRM temperatures never exceeded 60C so the Gigabyte board was working as expected. But, it can be noted that a viable tactic to get a cheaper motherboard to work on a big CPU would be to add a MOS waterblock to the VRM.<br />
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With Zen 2, Precision Boost automatically boosts frequency based on temperature, current, and other variables so I decided to also include some data about the slight differences in boost frequency that I saw between the two water blocks while running these CPU tests.<br />
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I hope you have found this experiment useful or at least entertaining. My goal was to present a viable and affordable path to custom water cooling. The thermal tests show that the system is capable of top tier cooling performance well within expectation for even a high dollar open loop solution. On the cost side, we are directly comparable to a high quality 360 AIO and about $100 more than a top tier air cooler. To ask someone planning a build to stretch $100 to play with "big boy" level cooling seems like a very reasonable proposition! Additionally, the loop presented here should easily be able to last through multiple system upgrades if properly maintained replacing the only wear item which is the pump. The system is also trivial to expand and upgrade incrementally. Perhaps you start with a single 360 radiator which would provide premium level cooling on its own. . and add additional radiators later when funds become available or if you start out with a smaller CPU and upgrade the cooling along with CPU upgrades. Incorporating a water cooled graphics card would be simple and require the addition of two compression fittings and another six inches of tubing. As someone who frequently buys used parts, I find some of the very best local deals are water cooled graphics cards because the owners are often more affluent (not penny pinching) and like to stay current with the latest and greatest options and upgrade frequently. The pool of people competing to purchase these cards is much smaller as not a lot of people run open loop cooling. For my uses, it has been nice to have an air cooled graphics card in this platform so I can swap cards easily and use the computer to test new purchases as they come in. I feel both of the CPU waterblocks are viable options and perform quite well.<br />
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While I do not have data to back it up, my guess is that the Barrow block performs on par with the best available name brand options and the Freezemod block is not far behind it. The only reason I upgraded was this particular build at the worst case synthetic scenario was running too close to the thermal limits for my comfort so psychologically, I felt a lot better after buying a few degrees of additional cooling. For any normal workload or for any smaller chip like a 3700X or 3800X, the bottom of the barrel Freezemod block would be capable of keeping things completely contained.<br />
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I sincerely hope this article helps put water cooling within reach of some builders who otherwise would not be able to afford it. This was a big hole that I saw in the sea of information out in the wilds so I thought I'd do my best to put my cheap Chinese watercooling solution out there. There are a huge number of guides online produced by people much more experienced than I am detailing custom loop assembly step by step, but if anyone wants a follow-up in the format that I produce here, please let me know, and I may put on my PC building cape again!chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-45131577269569977222019-07-26T01:06:00.000-07:002019-07-28T22:42:52.970-07:00Double Ryzen cooler hack for REALLY cheap and desperate peopleOne of the great cost advantages of AMD's Ryzen CPU's is they all include a functional cooler. Truth be told, almost any decent entry-level aftermarket cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO or even the $15 DeepCool Gammax 200T will match or outperform the stock Ryzen coolers here. That being said, the 65 watt TDP Wraith Stealth cooler, which is the cheapest of the stack has a reputation for not leaving any thermal wiggle room beyond stock clock settings. So, the Stealth is often left unused and floating around in the parts bin. In this experiment, I will see if it is possible to stack two of these on top of each other to improve thermal performance.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Truth be told, the only time this setup would be economically viable is if you can find a free Wraith Stealth cooler either left over in your parts bin or given to you out of sympathy by a fellow enthusiast because, as mentioned above, just about any other budget after-market solution will outperform this hack, but for the cheapest of the cheap among us, we should find out if there is any improvement to be gained.<br />
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The much improved AMD Wraith Spire cooler looks to be very similar to the Stealth except the aluminum core is about twice as thick. It can be assumed that there is no way a sandwiched arrangement of nearly the same cooler design, fin arrangement, and total mass can possibly out-perform its solid counterpart, but this makes the Wraith Spire the best option for comparing against.<br />
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The best value CPU in the Ryzen lineup at the time of writing is the Ryzen 5 3600 which comes with a Wraith Stealth cooler. Any of the Ryzen 5 CPU's would be a likely use case for this hack, and I will test on the 3600.<br />
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The test system will be an MSI B450 A PRO motherboard which I was able to flash to the newest BIOS with BIOS flashback feature that does not require an older generation CPU. Just the motherboard, power supply, and a USB flash drive.<br />
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Even though I am not accustomed to doing this type of comparative testing on the regular, I will try to use some reasonably consistent methods and parameters for my testing, so I will be using the same thermal compound for all tests. This means I need to remove the factory applied thermal paste from all of these coolers because I have no clue what they used. I'm sure it's decent stuff though. The "credit card" method works quite well to get the bulk of the thermal compound off followed by 99% denatured alcohol and some paper towels.<br />
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Gelid GC-Extreme was my thermal paste of choice previously, but I was not sure if I still had enough to do these multiple re-applications for testing, so I will be using some new KingPin Cooling KPx compound. People who know better than I do seem to think this compound works as good as any other top tier TIM, and to be honest, it's cheaper than Gelid GC-Extreme so I went with it.<br />
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Because I only have two Wraith Stealth coolers, I would need to mount and run my tests on one of them to get my baseline data before hacking the cooler up.<br />
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Spread method is used for thermal paste application. . . I have no real opinions on which way is best, but the little spread tool was included in the paste, so I felt compelled to use it.<br />
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The installation was uneventful and the system booted without any problems. With baseline testing out of the way, it's time to remove the cooler, clean it off again, and do some hacking. Here we have two Wraith Stealth coolers that I will attempt to merge into my Double Stealth Stack Awesome cooler.<br />
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First, I remove the plastic shroud from the stock fan assembly. This model was just friction fit with built-in clips. Others seem to have screws in various configurations.<br />
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With the shroud removed, the fan can be easily unscrewed from the aluminum core.<br />
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Apparently, AMD uses AVC and Foxconn fans in their stock coolers. This one is AVC. . . the other is Foxconn. I'm sticking with this fan because the initial tests on the stock Stealth were done with this fan.<br />
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In order to sandwich the two cores together with good clamping pressure, I will need to use longer length fan mounting screws that pass all the way through one core and into the bottom core. I decided to try some #4 Phillips Pan Head tapping screws from McMaster Carr. These are 1-1/2 inch length. The black screws are the original stock ones.<br />
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These screws fit the existing taps perfectly, so I am confident they will work in the new assembly.<br />
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Alternately, we can use an M3 tap and use M3 machine screws which I had on hand. I will think on it a bit and wait and see which method to choose when it's time to make the final assembly.<br />
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The next area to address is the CPU bracket mounts. These will interfere when trying to mate two cores together, so we will need to remove them.<br />
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A dremel with a metal cutoff wheel can be used to zap these off very easily.<br />
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With the CPU mount screws removed, fan-mounting holes on the middle core need to be drilled out so the fan screws will pass through unobstructed.<br />
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The aluminum is very soft, and these drill out very easily.<br />
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The core is now ready to assemble.<br />
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I decided to go with the tapped M3 screws option for the fan mount screws. The M3 screws that I had were shorter than the #4 self tapping screws which were a bit longer than necessary. My thinking was I could try the M3 threads first, and if those threads fail, I can always throw the self tapping screws in later and still have enough material for the screws to bite on.<br />
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Next, a quick test fit to see if everything is lining up as it should.<br />
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And everything looks to be lining up just fine. We have good clamping pressure with the machine screws, and the tapped threads seem to be holding ok.<br />
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Now to apply some thermal paste between the two cores before final assembly.<br />
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With thermal compound applied, time for final assembly. Everything should be downhill from here.<br />
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I have some squeeze out at the seam indicating I have somewhat even paste distribution between the cores!<br />
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All that is left is to reinstall the fan shroud, and humans win!<br />
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We have now completed the double-decker, poor-desperate-person Wraith cooler. Time to see how the performance stacks up. Please note, I tested the stock Wraith Spire and the stock Wraith Stealth coolers in the same session. But, the results for the final product here were performed the next evening so my test results should only be used as a general reference because variables like ambient temperature differences were not taken into account. I hope a tech-tuber with better methodology can follow up.<br />
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Since precision boost seems to scale with temperature on the Zen 2 chips, I decided to do some tests at stock settings. At stock AUTO settings, the CPU should automatically increase operating frequency as temperatures decrease. Here are the results from the stock Auto settings with XMP profile enabled on my 3200mhz CL16 RAM. I am running the CPU fan at 100% for all of these tests and the side panel has been removed from the computer making it essentially an open air bench.<br />
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Next, I set a manual all core overclock to 3.95Ghz and 1.2375V and ran the same tests. This was the highest overclock I could set that would actually run on the stock Stealth cooler. . . well, I had to stop the run prior to full temperature stability on the Wraith Stealth, so thermals were getting out of hand as expected, but I think we are close enough to get a picture of the performance differences. I like science, but I would also like to run this CPU for a daily driver after testing, so I stopped things a little bit short before running the temperatures much above 90C!<br />
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Despite the holes in my test methodology stated above, I still feel a general picture of the performance can be deduced. The double stack cooler lands somewhere between the Spire and the Stealth cooler and if this hack can be done for free, provides just a little bit more cooling capacity.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-56142349035696691272017-08-09T10:44:00.003-07:002017-08-09T10:44:48.565-07:00Corsair SPEC-01 Case 280 Radiator InstallationI recently acquired a Corsair SPEC-01 case and a Kraken X61 all in one liquid cooler in opened-package "new" condition. I am nearly certain both of these items were store returns that somehow made their way into the hands of a distressed merchandise retailer and subsequently onto Craigslist where I found the case for $25 and the cooler for a cool $60.<br />
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When trolling for used PC parts deals, you often don't get to pick and choose the exact parts combinations for builds and have to figure out how to work with what luck brings your way. Lucky for me, I think builds are much more interesting when the parts don't quite fit together without some hacking and creativity!<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Even with the recent trends towards more clean front PC cases, I like direct front to back airflow setups, and being as I have not had extra budget in any build to use a premium case, the entry level Corsair SPEC-01 accurately fits my cheap style. When this one came up on Craigslist at roughly half of current retail price, I jumped on the opportunity.<br />
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The Kraken X61 is a bit of a gamble and I still don't know if it will pay off. The various stickers on the box indicate that this unit was sold at some point by NCIX and was returned with the reason being "did not fit". If the clues are accurate, I'm hoping it does not exhibit any other manufacturing defects and can run for the designed 6 years. But if not, I lose because Kraken requires the original purchase receipt for warranty service and I do not have that! Another problem may be the negative reviews I read about the CAM software required to set up the device. As this will likely be a used parts budget build, I'm hoping I don't have to contend with a piece of software that eats up 3% or more of my system resources all the time. But, with some luck everything will work out ok.<br />
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The first step is to remove the front face of the SPEC-01 by pulling on the large bottom tab. This may put up quite a bit of resistance the first few times.<br />
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This will expose the single red LED illuminated 120mm fan that comes with the case. Four screws remove this fan.<br />
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I decide that the most straight-forward place to mount the 280 radiator is right behind the front cover in this position. On the bottom side, we see the bottom lip of the case obstructing the radiator's reservoir.<br />
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On the top side, there are no physical obstructions to mounting the radiator, but the rubber tubes will need to pass directly through the bottom 5.25" drive bay which will reduce the expandability of the case, but should be a pretty clean and seamless solution.<br />
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So, the first order of business is to cut the bottom of the case for the radiator reservoir to clear. I used some blue painter's tape to clearly mark the cutout area.<br />
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And a fiber reinforced dremel cutoff wheel goes through the thin sheetmetal with ease. Is that a "feature" on cheap cases? Maybe.<br />
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After some cleanup with a file, this is what we end up with.<br />
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The case is definitely weakened a little bit, but once the radiator is screwed into position, it should add back a bit of lost rigidity.<br />
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And, here we have our mount position for the radiator. Nice and clean with minimal case cutting!<br />
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Turning my attention to the plastic front cover, there are definitely some new obstructions that will need to be dealt with. Because the top of the radiator is intruding into the 5.25" drive bay area, I will need to make a few cuts to the plastic plate. The front cover was only intended to accept two 140mm fans and the reservoirs protrude further that this at the top and bottom.<br />
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This flat plastic section will need to be removed.<br />
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The dremel cutoff wheel works fine to cut the plastic, even if it is a bit "melty" and I use a wire cutter to chop the small ends because the cutoff wheel is difficult to maneuver into that position.<br />
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Here you can see the radiator clearance after the cut is made.<br />
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The next obstruction is the bottom reservoir on the radiator. A notch cut will need to be made on the front cover to make it sit flush.<br />
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Again, I used blue tape to mark the cut area, but this time, I stayed a bit outside of the final line with the dremel and used a file to slowly close the distance to the tape line. The dremel is way too "melty" to make a clean line on the plastic.<br />
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The first cut attempt was a little bit short and the front cover still had a gap, so I had to re-mark the area and make a second cut<br />
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The second cut was also a little bit shallow, but I was close enough that I could close the remaining gap slowly with a file. This way, I cut the least amount of material possible so the front cover can retain as much structure as possible after the hack. I thought about reinforcing the area behind with some aluminum or brass sheets epoxied in, but the cover felt strong enough without additional reinforcement.<br />
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At this point, I removed the bottom drive cage from the case and tried screwing in the 140mm fans from inside of the case, but discovered that the case was only designed to accept fans on the front side directly under the front cover. Because the radiator now occupies that space, it is impossible to mount the top 140mm fan behind the radiator.<br />
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The bottom of the 5.25" drive bay prevents the fan from fitting.<br />
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One solution would be to simply mount a 120mm fan in the top position, but after thinking about it for a bit, later that evening, I decided the bottom 5.25" bay is occupied by the rubber hoses coming off of the radiator and can't be used anyways, I might as well make the cut I need to mount the proper 140mm fan from the back side.<br />
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Again, I mark my cut line with some blue tape.<br />
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This cut will require drilling out two rivets to release the metal panel.<br />
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And, I am able to make the cut with a cutoff wheel again. There is a bit of an angle at the end because the cutoff wheel was difficult to maneuver into that spot from this angle. I came in from the other side of the panel on a second pass to clean that up.<br />
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And, here is the clearance cut for the top 140mm fan completed.<br />
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This case was tapped and drilled for fan installation, those threads make it difficult to seat the radiator all the way flush with the sheetmetal tabs. Because we are sandwiching the metal tabs between the fans and radiator, I decided to drill out the screw threads on all of the fan mount holes so when I tighten down my fan screws into the radiator, the radiator will be able to settle all the way down to the metal tabs.<br />
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And that is all for the case mod! With the clearance cut, both 140mm fans now fit without issue.<br />
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The Kraken X61 has long enough rubber tubes to reach the CPU. I know not all AIO's will reach, but this one will work. There also looks to be plenty of room for a reservoir and pump for a custom loop if that is an upgrade path in the future. Unfortunately, the bottom drive bay will not go back in with the fans mounted in this position. This shorter corsair drive cage could work on the bottom because I believe it is short enough to stay under the motherboard.<br />
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<a href="http://www.elitewarehouse.com/corsair-cc-8930122-82969-prd1.htm?productFeedId=0&utm_source=googleBaseFeed&utm_medium=shoppingEngine&utm_campaign=Google&source=productlistings52386359632&origin=pla&GPID=s&crid=107415785535&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJeyKFpVv2b8JIYZdublJtEemGdBDmZoTT7bnpU96-PKzLp1MqoHPeUkaAjM0EALw_wcB">CORSAIR DRIVE CAGE</a><br />
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But, at this point, the mod is complete, and I feel the 280 radiator slots in very discretely under the front cover.<br />
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Here are the cuts that were made to the front cover in order to clear the radiator.<br />
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And the cover in place!<br />
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Humans win!chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com107tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-54846225090958709802016-01-17T02:47:00.001-08:002016-06-27T06:36:37.081-07:00Part 2: Portable Lighting System for Beach Volleyball<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is part 2 in my ongoing DIY sports lighting project and details assembling a 24V DC power supply for the battery charger. <a href="http://www.studio939.blogspot.com/2016/01/introduction-portable-lighting-system.html" target="_blank">Part 1 of the project can be found here.</a><br />
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Most of the higher power balance chargers for Lithium Polymer (Lipo) batteries require a separate DC power supply. For our project, we will be using the Revolectrix Power Powerlab 8x2 which can charge at 40 amps per channel. Feeding this beast requires either an expensive (~$300+) 2000 watt power supply, or a bit of DIY modification to some widely available computer server power supplies to adapt them to the task. Being as the overall lighting system cost was already running out of control, I decided to adapt powerful and reliable Hewlett Packard DPS-1200FB server power supplies which are readily available used from $20-$30 each.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><i><span style="clear: both; color: red;">**A bit of warning before continuing forward. The descriptions contained in this post are for educational purposes only. Be aware that the circuits inside of these power supplies operate at LETHAL voltages, and should only be handled by qualified technicians observing proper safety protocols. Do not attempt this project if you do not have a thorough understanding of the circuits involved. There are off-the-shelf products that can safely accomplish the task at hand.**</span></i><br />
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That being said, I selected the HP DPS-1200FB power supply based on information obtained from numerous RC hobby forums. There are many computer computer server supplies suitable for modification and use with Lipo battery chargers, and I am sure over time, availability and serviceability of this specific model will change, but at the time of writing, the DPS-1200FB seems pretty optimal. These HP power supplies run at 12V but the Revolectrix Powerlab 8 does not charge at full output unless it has a 24V supply, so we will configure two DPS-1200FB power supplies and wire them in series to achieve our desired 24V output. Because the Powerlab 8x2 has 2 discrete channels, we need to build a power supply for each channel. This is beneficial because at full charge, a single household outlet will likely blow a fuse, so splitting the task between 2 outlets on different circuits will allow this setup to operate without special 220V circuits in the house.</span><br />
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The first step is to acquire some DPS-1200FB power supplies. I purchased mine on Ebay.</span><br />
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In order to safely wire 2 DPS-1200FB modules in series, we will need to isolate the circuit board of one unit from the outer case. A quick test reveals that in standard configuration, the negative output terminal is directly connected to the outer case.<br />
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We will need to isolate the internal PCB of one of the power supplies from the outer chassis in order to connect the 2 in series to produce 24V.<br />
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First, remove the 4 screws that secure the top cover.<br />
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With the screws removed we can open the top cover and peel back the insulating membrane.<br />
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Next, remove the 4 self tapping screws that secure the cooling fan.<br />
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Next, disconnect the IEC safety ground wire from the chassis.<br />
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Wiggle and lift the IEC module from the chassis.<br />
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With the IEC out of the way, one of the 3 screws that attach the PCB to the chassis is revealed.<br />
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Remove the 3 PCB mounting screws.<br />
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Next, push the power indicator LED in to detach it from the metal housing.</div>
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At this point, all of the internal PCB unit and attached fan and IEC can be removed from the chassis.</div>
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Remove the insulating membrane from the metal chassis.</div>
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There are a variety of ways to isolate the PCB from the chassis. The most direct way I could think of is to use isolating shoulder washers and retain the original M3 screws and standoffs. In order to do this, we will need the following parts:</div>
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1x 12mm M3 screw</div>
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2x 8mm M3 screw</div>
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3x M3 flat washers</div>
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6x <a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/7721-7PPSG/?qs=NqprlHOmxN1c1LnnOZYpOw%3D%3D" target="_blank">Aavid Thermally 7721-7PPSG shoulder washers</a></div>
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We will use the shoulder washers to electrically isolate the PCB from the chassis. Install them on the top and bottom of the PCB.</div>
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Some of these will have a tendency to fall out when handling the PCB so be cautious when re-assembling.</div>
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The shoulder washers on the bottom of the PCB will raise the entire assembly and some adjustments will need to be made. A quick check with a dial caliper shows the PCB will be raised .040 inches.</div>
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We will have to grind down the metal standoffs on the chassis by .040 inches to fit the board back in correctly. The standoffs are .125 inches tall.</div>
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So. . . </div>
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.125" - .040" = .085" </div>
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Which is the new standoff height we will aim for. I decided to grind down the standoffs from .125 inches to .085 inches with a Dremel and a cutting stone attachment.</div>
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After cutting down the standoffs, I tested the new M3 screws that I purchased to make sure everything will thread in as before. Sometimes grinding will create burrs that inhibit the screws from properly threading in.</div>
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With the standoffs set to the proper height, re-install the plastic insulating membrane.</div>
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Next, place the PCB assembly back into the chassis. Because the bottom shoulder washers had a tendency to fall out when maneuvering the PCB, I decided to hold the entire PCB assembly upside down and then position the case on top of it so the shoulder washer would remain in place.</div>
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Put flat washers on the M3 screws.</div>
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And secure the PCB assembly back into position.</div>
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Next, re-install the power indicator LED.</div>
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Put the fan and IEC back in position.</div>
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Re-attach the chassis ground to the case.</div>
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Install the 4 self-tapping screws to the cooling fan.</div>
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At this point, we can check and see if the PCB has been isolated from the chassis. If the shoulder washers have been installed properly, there should be no continuity between the negative output on the PCB and the chassis.</div>
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If that checks out, re-install the top cover and double check to make sure we still have no continuity between the negative output and the chassis.</div>
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With the PCB isolated, the next step is to "trick" the power supply into turning on. I use a 1W 750 ohm resistor.</div>
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We will need to bridge pin 33 and pin 36 on the PCB with the 750R resistor.</div>
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I found it easy to use a clip to secure the resistor on one side while soldering the other end.</div>
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With one side soldered in, remove the clip and solder the remaining end.</div>
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Trim off the excess with a wire cutter.</div>
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With the jumper in place, I crossed my fingers and plugged in the power supply. No smoke! Humans win! </div>
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And we have 12.34V output which is great. The power supply does have an internal trim screw for fine tuning the output voltage, but 12.34V will work just fine.</div>
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With the power supply confirmed working, I install a banana plug/screw terminal jack to the output lugs of the PCB.</div>
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First, chop the ends off of the banana plug unit.</div>
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Next, set the soldering iron to a super high setting since the banana plug unit and the PCB lugs are pretty large and will dissipate heat very quickly. Then, secure the banana plug on one side with a clip and solder the other side.</div>
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Then, remove the clip and solder the other side.</div>
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For a little added security, I used a couple of the unused washers from the banana plug unit to secure the back side of the PCB.</div>
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We will be connecting 2x power supplies in series. One of them will need to be isolated as described above. The other one will only need the 750 ohm jumper applied to trick it into turning on and does not need to be opened up and isolated.</div>
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I used some velcro to quickly bundle the 2 power supplies together. To make the series connection, we will need a short wire lead. I used a piece of 10 gauge wire.</div>
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Connect the 2 power supplies in series. Note, the top unit is our isolated supply and the bottom unit is not.</div>
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And our power supply is completed.</div>
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I power the unit up and confirm that we have 24.65V output which will work great for feeding one channel of our powerlab 8x2 charger. I plan to build another identical supply for the 2nd channel of the powerlab 8x2, but it should be noted if we are mindful of our charge settings and the capacity of the household AC circuit we are using, we can use this single 24V power supply to run both channels of the powerlab 8v2.</div>
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chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-75895236354986009472016-01-14T17:00:00.000-08:002016-06-29T02:22:59.850-07:00Introduction: Portable Lighting System for Beach Volleyball<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One of the main problems with playing beach volleyball and having a regular job of any kind is the obvious inability to play when the sun goes down. While much of California boasts fantastically playable weather year-round, when the time changes and the days become short in the winter time, the sun sets around 5:00PM precluding most professionals from playing except on weekends. I have often schemed in my mind searching for a way to right this injustice.<br />
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Given the widespread need for portable sports lighting, I was surprised at my inability to find any viable, cost-effective commercial products. Recently, the appearance of a wide array of household and automotive LED lighting products got me thinking a viable DIY solution is possible.<br />
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In this series of posts, I will describe in detail how to build a battery powered, portable sports lighting system from readily available components. While this system is designed specifically for beach volleyball, it can be adjusted and scaled for the technical requirements of other sports. In this first introductory post, I will lay out my overall scheme and discuss some of the component choices that I made. Subsequent articles will describe all of the modules in step by step build detail.<br />
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Every successful project requires a clearly defined set of design criteria. Here are the initial parameters I laid out:<br />
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- Portable (can be hand carried over a distance of a few blocks)<br />
- Provide even and adequate court coverage<br />
- Provide good quality of light (minimize hard shadows, blind spots, and excessive glare)<br />
- Fully battery powered (no generator or need for AC power to deploy)<br />
- Minimum run time of 3 hours on one battery charge (ideally 6+ hours)<br />
- Easy/fast setup and teardown<br />
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I began investigating how bright a system I can create without violating any of the design criteria established above. The first step was finding a light source. The internet is full of cheap off-road automotive LED light fixtures that are weatherproof and operate on DC 12V power. These come in all manner of sizes, light patterns, and power ratings with the usual wild array of different branding for what appear to be the same lights. After staring at the dizzying array of options online for a few nights, I honed in on a few promising options and purchased some test units. The specific information I needed about light output, beam pattern, and power draw was completely unobtainable online, so I had to get them in my hands and test before settling down on a pair of Auxbeam <a href="http://amzn.to/1JNquib" target="_blank">18W light bar fixture</a> that uses 6 Cree LED chips.<br />
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I used a very seat of the pants test to gauge if the light output would be adequate. First, based on very subjective online reviews, there seemed to be a consensus that these 18W Cree light bars were "brighter than headlights". So, I pointed my car's headlights on the sand volleyball court and night and tried to imagine 5 more cars doing the same thing. Next, when I got the actual sample light fixtures in hand, I turned them on in my living room which is approximately the 1/4 the size of the court by floor area to gauge how well the space was lit. I didn't seem to have trouble doing normal tasks with 2x 18W lamps lighting the room, so generally, I felt the light output would be at least minimally functional.<br />
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The next major hurdle to overcome was how to get the lights high into the air and positioned optimally to get good coverage and quality of light for sports. I brain stormed cable and post systems, inflatable post systems, tripod systems, and finally concluded that <a href="http://amzn.to/1mZqDEG" target="_blank">simple telescoping painter's poles</a> would be the solution. They are not particularly strong, but they don't need to be if the light fixtures they are supporting are lightweight. Initially, I would strap these to existing fence posts at the courts with nylon tie straps, and screw type beach umbrella anchors could be used on open sand.<br />
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I concluded that an 18ft. pole would be adequate height while collapsing down to 6ft. for transport which would fit in a normal car. Painter's poles are also fantastically light and all 6 can be easily hand carried in one trip. Some creative strapping may even allow them to be slung over a shoulder or transported on a bicycle.<br />
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With the posts and light fixtures decided, the next critical step was to determine my layout to evenly cover the court. The spot light fixtures that I chose were advertised as 30 degree beam spread, but in practice, they were more like 15-17 degree. Flood lights are also available for this fixture type advertised at 60 degree beam spread. But, when tested, they actually just threw light everywhere, and I feared I would lose too much efficiency with the flood lights given the large area I needed to cover and limited number of fixtures. With the spot lights, I could tightly focus all of my precious photons onto the court surface instead of bleeding them aimlessly into the night sky.<br />
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After studying commercial basketball and tennis court lighting schemes, I decided on a 6 pole layout with 2 light fixtures on each pole to provide even court coverage. For minimal glare directly in the eyes of the players, aiming the fixtures downward would be optimal.<br />
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But, according to my tests, at an 18ft. pole height, the beam spread of each light fixture would produce a small, concentrated circle which is not very even. So, I decided to keep the same light pole layout, but aim the fixtures across the court to the opposite side making the "spot" created by the beam spread larger and covering the court more evenly. Ideally, the beams should actually overlap to create the most even coverage, but we have to work with the light fixtures we have available and the pattern on this specific fixture is "loose" with a pretty gradual gradient at the edge of the beam and a significant amount of spill outside of the main beam.<br />
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The next main hurdle is the battery. The first thing that needed to be determined before evaluating battery options was the actual current draw of the light fixtures which I could not find on data sheets or anywhere online. Apparently, most of the folks installing these lights on off-road vehicles simply add as many as they want without considering the loads. Granted, the halogen fixtures these LED lights replace draw many times more power so the net load on a vehicle's electrical system is likely lowered even if a very large array of LED lights is installed, so I figure for most people, a tight calculation is unnecessary on a truck or ATV. But, we are trying to run as lean as possible with an absolute minimum specified operating time of 3 hours. So, the first thing I did when I go my test fixtures was measure the current draw at various relevant voltages.<br />
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12V - 2.137A (2 fixtures)<br />
24V - 1.088A (2 fixtures)<br />
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This was fantastic news because I had initially guessed more than double the current draw for each pole. I initially thought lead acid deep cycle batteries would be the solution because by all the literature I see, they are the lowest cost. But, they are heavy and I would need to run hundreds of feet of cables to the poles. The cables would also need to be heavy gauge to overcome transmission losses on a low voltage system. For lead acid, I would have tried running 2 batteries each powering 3 poles. With the current draw lower than I originally anticipated, I wanted to check lighter solutions.<br />
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The next option was lithium batteries with each pole powered individually to keep cable runs as short as possible. I began looking at 22.2V or 6S lithium batteries. Lithium batteries are generally designed to cycle down to 20% charge which is better than the 50%-40% of lead acid batteries. I targeted a 10AH or 10,000mah 22.2V lithium ion battery because:<br />
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70% of 10AH is 7AH (assuming I run my batteries to 30% charge leaving a 10% buffer for safety)<br />
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7AH / 1.1A = 6.36 hours battery life<br />
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Further research revealed 2 viable types of lithium ion battery. The first is 18650 lithium cell popularly found in Tesla vehicles, E-bikes, laptop computers, power tools, and many other places. There is a lot of information available online about how to assemble 18650 battery packs. For my application, I would use Samsung INR-18650E (3500mah) cells. I would need:<br />
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3 cells per bank x 6 banks = 18 cells to make a 22.2V 10.5AH battery pack for each pole. At $3.70 each cell, for the batteries only, each pack would cost $66.60 and I would need to learn how to spot weld and construct the cells. Each pack would also require the addition of a battery management system to balance, and protect the pack (~$40)<br />
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The option that I chose for this build was lithium polymer packs commonly used in remote control cars, drones, planes, and helicopters. These have the advantage of having the most power density, but are more fragile and without any power management systems built-in, require special balanced chargers. Safe battery handling and storage are also important, and the internet if full of videos of mis-treated packs exploding into flames and burning down garages/houses. <br />
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I opted to use the RC lithium polymer battery packs because they were the lightest and did not require a lot of complex assembly. I may explore the 18650 cell option if I decide to assemble another system and compare them in actual use.<br />
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I ended up purchasing 12x 5200mah 6s lithium polymer (Lipo) packs. I will use 2 per light pole wired in parallel to give 10.4AH total. <br />
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Due to the potentially volatile nature of these battery packs, I purchased a <a href="http://amzn.to/1mZn6X8" target="_blank">charcoal smoker</a> and am storing and charging the battery packs outside of the house in a covered back porch area so in the event one or more of my batteries explodes into flames, there will be no fire or smoke damage to my house!<br />
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With the battery packs determined, I need a way to efficiently and safely charge all 12 5200mah batteries. The RC Lipo packs are designed for high current output, and by RC vehicle standards, our application is very, very mild, so we can use low-cost options that are rated near the bottom end of the performance range for RC without stressing the batteries at all. But, by volume, 12x 5200mah batteries is a lot of batteries to charge and maintain and I will need a very strong charger to handle all of them. One of the best rated chargers for Lipo packs is the Revolectrix Powerlab 8x2. This charger has 2 channels and is capable of balance charging all 12 (6 per channel in parallel) of my Lipo packs safely in just over an hour. <a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/" target="_blank">Progressive RC</a> is a reputable US based shop with great customer support, so I decided to buy my charger from them.<br />
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Here, we can see the Powerlab charging 10 batteries simultaneously. The setup will easily charge all 12 batteries fully in well under an hour. In typical use, charge time is about 15 minutes.<br />
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With the majority of components on hand, I first executed a battery life test on one light fixture in my living room to confirm battery life. Running the batteries from ~83% to ~40%, I was able to get 3 hours of run time which is in line with the projections.<br />
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Next, I wanted to see how much light we are actually outputting, and determine if it is sufficient for playing actual games. For that, I would need to deploy poles on an actual court. For this test, I deployed 5 of the 6 final light poles because I am saving the last pole for step by step photo instructions on this blog.<br />
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El Nino has made weather conditions this winter very unpredictable, but on a clear night, I set out to test the partial system on a sand court. <br />
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After a bit of fiddling with the light brackets to aim and stabilize the lights, we were able to get the court reasonably covered. <br />
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I do not own accurate instruments to measure exact light levels, but I was shooting at ISO 2500 1/30sec exposure on my camera which by photography standards is pretty marginal. For 36W light poles on a fully portable system, the results are about as good as can be expected. We still cannot escape the laws of physics no matter high bright the amazon reviews say these lights are! I would guess the light levels are a good step lower than a recreational type municipal tennis court, but I was extremely happy with the quality of light I was getting and the even coverage. <br />
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We had no problems at all playing on the court and seeing the players and ball clearly. One concern that I had was if we would completely lose sight of the ball if it was hit very high because we do not have any direct lights pointed upwards and our lights are only 18 feet high as opposed a more standard 25 feet. As it turns out the sand surface is quite good at reflecting the light upwards and tracking the ball high above the court is not a big problem. The 5 light poles as tested created a good light distribution and glare is at a very comfortable level even when looking directly into the lights.<br />
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Another concern that I had was the color temperature of the LED lights specifically designed for efficiency as opposed to natural color rendering. The warm color reflecting off of the sand mitigated the typical blue cast of the LED lights acceptably, and the court rendered relatively warm and inviting to the eye. Also, compared to the horrible orange tint sodium vapor parking lot light in the background of this photo, I feel the overall color rendering quality of the light setup is not fantastic (ie. halogen lights) but ok considering the price of the fixtures used. It is not distracting or stark like many street lamps.<br />
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Overall, I feel the system performs quite well with 2 criticisms. One is we could use a brighter system in general, but we are about at the maximum weight these painters poles can support. But, because each individual light pole operates as an independent unit, we can easily add more poles to increase the overall light output of the system. The second problem is there are hot spots and dark spots on the court. Once we get all 6 posts in place, I think we will be able to have a better distribution of the light beams onto the court surface, and the problem should be all but fixed.<br />
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Even with these shortcomings, I feel the overall project is an overwhelming success and creates a very comfortable playing environment. While light output may be low for something like video production, my eyes did not feel strained at all playing on the court, and I could clearly see everything I needed to see. Certainly we have a solid "proof of concept" for a portable lighting solution. It should be noted that the total cost of the parts used in the system as described here is right around $2,000.00 USD. It all started with a $20 light fixture and quickly snowballed out of control, but I was happy I stayed inside of the original design parameters.<br />
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<a href="https://studio939.blogspot.com/2016/01/part-2-portable-lighting-system-for.html" target="_blank">Part 2 of this series</a> will detail some technical aspects of the battery charging system, and part 3 will discuss the light pole assembly, but for now, game on!<br />
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<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-3499188191000447892015-04-25T00:38:00.002-07:002015-11-22T12:56:30.862-08:00U87 Studio Test<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Because it was national soundcheck day "12-12-12", we went into the studio to get a few samples of our U87 clone microphone detailed previously. Figured I'd stir the pot a bit <img src="http://groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/tongue.gif" /> Anyways, it was just acoustic guitars this time, but we were able to put a few mics up to compare. Among them, 2 original vintage U87's. We did not get the Klaus U87 up because our friend down the street who own it was having a pretty rough day. He had to put his dog down who he had been walking for near 20 years, so it was all-in-all a bad day to be borrowing mics. <br />
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Test signal chain for this studio test is as follows:<br />
Microphone --> Great River preamp --> apogee rosetta 800 running 48K --> RME digiface --> Logic studio . . .console is MCI JH600<br />
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First up is my clone described in this thread.<br />
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U87 clone digital<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/fpza"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/fpza/stats.png" /></a><br />
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U87 clone to tape<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/msfu"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/msfu/stats.png" /></a><br />
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Next, all original vintage U87 #1<br />
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Vintage U87 #1 digital<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/qsfu"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/qsfu/stats.png" /></a><br />
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Vintage U87 #1 tape<br />
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Next, we have an original U87 repaired with a Peluso capsule. So, for sonic differences induced by circuit and body, this is a good candidate because the capsule is the same as the clone build.<br />
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Vintage U87 w/ Peluso capsule digital<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/jcqv"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/jcqv/stats.png" /></a><br />
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Vintage U87 w/ Peluso capsule to tape<br />
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Next, for reference, we put up an original vintage km84. . . here's digital<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/qhbe"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/qhbe/stats.png" /></a><br />
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and KM84 to tape<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/jejd"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/jejd/stats.png" /></a><br />
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And, because we've used a lot of Audio Technica's mics in studio and have found them to be well priced and very consistent from unit to unit, here is an AT4033 which we know to sound good on this guitar from previous recordings. Here is AT4033 digital<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/zskp"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/zskp/stats.png" /></a><br />
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and AT4033 to tape<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/whni"><img src="http://tindeck.com/image/whni/stats.png" /></a>chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-4948629353696669082014-11-22T23:59:00.002-08:002014-11-24T18:16:28.246-08:00Vocal Microphone and Capsule TestingTime for another round of studio tests. I have been working on a developing variety of microphone projects lately and have come to discover that good, actionable information about various microphone components is actually quite scarce on the internet. Usually tiny gems of data are scattered all over the internet and buried hundreds of posts deep in often un-related web forum topics. To compound the problem, egos, chest thumping, marketing hype, "trade-secrets", and general online drama often cloud discussions or turn into useless drivel.<br />
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Also, due to the infinite range of recording environments and monitoring systems, the often-provided lone audio sample can only describe a condition to a certain extent. One mic is "open". . . well, compared to what? Another one could be "opener". Because of this, I have found relative data to be more helpful, but that requires repetitive, structuring testing in a reasonably controlled way different from regular music production. Even then, concrete conclusions are hard to find and it is difficult to establish a "baseline", but in the end, these devices must be judged and improved by listening and meaningful comparison. So, even if messy and imperfect, we must try.<br />
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With that as a framework, I entered the studio earlier today with a trunk full of DIY microphones and prototypes to test and attempt to provide some actionable information for people looking to build recording microphones.<br />
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More after the jump.<br />
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Truth be told, a few of these microphones have been kicking around the studio for some time now. Setting up a test at this point in time was somewhat by design. I wanted to make sure to a reasonable extent that the microphones were stable and operating properly. Also, every microphone has a different sweet spot and way it "likes" to be used, so a little bit of knowledge about how to place them is important for efficient testing. Because of this, we did have some ideas going in about which microphones had outstanding potential, but these initial impressions needed to be confirmed or disproved by tests.<br />
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In music production, everything hinges on the strength of the performance. We bend over backwards to create the vibe and environment conducive to having some magic in the room to actually capture! For a test session, it becomes even more difficult to find someone with a nuance and dynamic that can push a wide range on the microphones as well as consistency and stamina to repeat over and over again.<br />
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I was lucky Margo Leduc came into Studio 1225 a few months back to track a few jazz standards. My long-time friend Jon Uhland who owns and operates the small production studio played some of the tracks for me when I was visiting. She instantly came to mind when I was thinking about setting up a test session. We contacted Margo, and she graciously agreed to let us use some of the tracks for samples, and we selected two short song sections to use. We will inevitably tire of them completely and the songs will then be ruined in our minds, but we had to pick something!<br />
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"The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry". . . and awry they went. A few days before the test, I found out I would have my toddler daughter with me for the session. Some of the tests I had planned involved changing components mid-session between takes. Likelihood of succes on those configurations suddenly became very low. Also, one microphone that had proven to be stable prior to testing developed a catastrophic failure. But despite those setbacks, we had enough configurations stable to still get some good information, and moving forward, I am hoping we will be able to schedule more sessions and add more high quality audio samples that can be directly compared. I am hoping we have established a reasonably repeatable framework to do this.<br />
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Tests scheduled for today:<br />
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1) U87 capsules - Peluso, early variant Eric Heiserman HK87 (Success)<br />
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<strike>2) U87 transformers - AMI T13, Cinemag 13113, new prototype, vintage original </strike> (failed due to toddler maintenance and time spent diagnosing other failures)<br />
<br />
3) MK47 (U47 clone) capsules - Thiersch Blue Line, Beesneez M7, Eric Heiserman HK47 (Success)<br />
<br />
<strike>4) C12 capsules - Tim Campbell CT12, Eric Heiserman HK12</strike> (failed due to mic failure)<br />
<br />
5) MK67 (U67 clone) - function test and general evaluation (Success)<br />
<br />
A few notes about the test method and setup. We felt that for vocal performance, proximity effect and a lot of other microphone positioning variables cannot be properly tested when putting multiple microphones up simultaneously. Small position shifts as small as half an inch can make huge sonic differences, and I feel it is impractical to crowd everything into such a small area. Also, a good singer will adjust performance and distancing to the mic's sonic feedback in the cans. So, if you put up 5 microphones simultaneously, which one is the performer monitoring? We opted to find a performer who can make reasonably consistent takes and to optimize the microphone placement for each individual mic like we would in a normal session. . . then, record the microphones one at a time.<br />
<br />
Our signal chain for the vocal is as follows. . .<br />
<br />
- Great River MP-1NV preamp<br />
- Line input on MCI JH-630 console<br />
- Apogee Rosetta A/D converter (24bit 48K)<br />
- RME Digiface<br />
- Logic Studio 9<br />
<br />
The mixes generated are analog through the console. No EQ was added to the vocal and very slight compression was used.<br />
<br />
First up was the U87 clone detailed in a <a href="http://studio939.blogspot.com/2012/12/vintage-u87-circuit-clone-microphone.html" target="_blank">previous blog post</a>. This mic has become one of the go-to microphones for vocals in studio and it has proven to sound good on most singers that come through. In fact, Margo's original track for her record were done on this microphone. The emphasis in session was likely speed and efficiency, and to be honest, Margo sounds good on any decent microphone, so it makes sense that Jon just threw the "known" mic up.<br />
<br />
Mic specs: DU87 PCB set, Peluso P-K87i capsule, AMI T13 transformer<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/j4acs5ldw1fiac7cux2f" target="_blank">U87 Clone - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/e4vmg1v1i0r7v87lsvwp" target="_blank">U87 Clone - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/cl1d8xbhwvqy3obmxi3w" target="_blank">U87 Clone - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/godsd9hdfd5omjb70y20" target="_blank">U87 Clone - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
Next, we have another U87 clone with the same build specs except with an early iteration of Eric Heiserman's HK87 capsule. This early iteration of the capsule was based on measurements taken from an old vintage K87 capsule and is no longer his "standard" product which is closer to the new production K87 capsules. There are two key differences. 1) drill holes are smaller in the older Neumann spec. 2) Eric has reduced the mylar tension in his current spec. The microphone sits in a bare brass factory sample body, so we refer to it as the "brass" U87 in studio.<br />
<br />
Mic specs: DU87 PCB set, 1st Gen Eric Heiserman HK87 capsule, AMI T13 transformer<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/b9mgf9jspe9kild8t33z" target="_blank">Brass U87 Clone - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/omsbvvdxm5w1bd3i4h1f" target="_blank">Brass U87 Clone - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/bon9xa9qhaskfp5kwj4x" target="_blank">Brass U87 Clone - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/7f4cnwuqcec0lzcyqesx" target="_blank">Brass U87 Clone - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
A note about Eric Heiserman and why we test so many of his capsules. In DIY land, and specifically in capsule development, there is a lot of secrecy, and many makers are very closed about specifications and processes. It is completely understandable, and I respect the way each vendor chooses to operate their business, but it is refreshing to find a capsule builder who is open to development and is eager to collaborate and make spec adjustments and share the details about those changes and product specifications. For DIY, this "open source" sort of approach in the long run will result in better capsules for all and a more educated/informed buyer. Eric also does not take offense when we flatly tell him "its not good enough". In this instance, we did not think the early production HK87 capsules were up to par sonically with some of his other models, and I am glad the original build thread featured the Peluso P-K87i capsule which may have a certain stigma associated with it in DIY community based on the well-known fact that the backplates are manufactured in China. Disregarding the country of origin, it has proven to be a fantastic capsule and based on long-term use in studio, slightly superior to the 1st gen. Heiserman HK87. The brass microphone will likely re-visit the workbench and receive a current production HK87 capsule which has undergone significant changes in backplate machining and diaphragm tensioning specs. It may also end up being the test platform for transformers and get retrofitted with a way to quick change transformers.<br />
<br />
Our next microphone is a vintage Neumann U87i retrofitted with a Peluso P-K87i capsule. When Matador diagnosed this microphone originally and isolated the problem to the capsule, the most expedient solution to get the mic back online quickly was to use the capsule that we had on hand which happened to be the Peluso. This mic shares primary vocal duties almost equally with the first microphone in general use, so we have not had reason to change the configuration again. It just works for us.<br />
<br />
Mic Specs: Vintage U87i, Peluso P-K87i capsule<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/8p8jmloqeh7wnxmfachy" target="_blank">OG U87i - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/6mwvqgy7mydcx5bsfy0r" target="_blank">OG U87i - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/paee8aa6z54jusppdmeq" target="_blank">OG U87i - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/ylsp6sibx5x0yhaguocv" target="_blank">OG U87i - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
The next microphone is a U67 clone using the ioaudio <a href="http://store.studio939.com/product/ioaudio-mk67-bare-bones-kit" target="_blank">MK67 kit</a> designed and produced by Max Kircher in Austria which includes BV.12 transformer that he winds himself. This is the first test drive of this new microphone kit. I also wanted to test drive Eric Heiserman's current spec HK67 capsule which is the same as the HK87 capsule except without isolated backplates. The holes have been slightly enlarged from the 1st generation ones, but are not quite as big as the current production Neumann units, so it splits the difference a bit. Membrane tension has also loosened a bit. The tube was sourced from Christian Whitmore. His recommendation was either Telefunken EF86 or the Amperex EF86 as excellent choices for U67 application. At the time of purchase, I went with the Amperex because it was slightly cheaper and as new clones are sometimes prone to being a bit "harder" sounding than well broken-in vintage ones, we opted for the slightly softer tube.<br />
<br />
Mic specs: ioaudio MK67 kit, Eric Heiserman HK67 capsule (2nd gen), Amperex EF86 tube<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/bn0sm6jca6b67146h4pw" target="_blank">U67 Clone - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/qlcnjm6hp4pt2pgs4ov2" target="_blank">U67 Clone - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/178pl0rb5g435xvz0jy1" target="_blank">U67 Clone - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/8io46kmtk82j1syv0ngk" target="_blank">U67 Clone - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
This is a starting point for U67 clone testing, and there are several things we want to test in future installments. The most important being original Neumann capsule (still in production) and original Telefunken EF86 tube to establish our baseline. I am also interested in hearing some of the alt-tubes that people recommend like Valvo E80F tube and Shannon Rhoades skinned K67 capsule. We are also looking for an opportunity to get hands-on a premium condition vintage original U67 to test against.<br />
<br />
The next series of tests are U47 clone capsules. There has been significant interest in U47 clones since Max Kircher released his ioaudio MK47 kit some time ago. Recently, he also released a premium <a href="http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=50694.0" target="_blank">MK-U47 kit</a> which has been quite popular. Good comparative information about the capsule choices available is hard to come by. I focussed in on three popular premium options. It seems the "gold standard" capsule currently is the Thiersch Blue Line PVC M7 capsule. It is the most expensive of the current options but there does not seem to be a single negative report about the Thiersch capsule I can find. Most opinions from people who have tested various other high end capsules against the Thiersch Blue Line also concur. It usually wins. The 2nd test capsule is the Beesneez M7 capsule. The purchase of the M7 was based on a raving review of the Beesneez K7 capsule by Klaus Hein floating around the internet, and the assertion by Ben and Veronica Sneesby that the current M7 is now the company's flagship U47 capsule offering. The next capsule is the Eric Heiserman HK47 capsule which is a hybrid construction capsule. This is assembled like a K67 with dual backplates as opposed to the original single backplate K47 and M7 capsules, but the hole patterns are modelled after the flat response M7/K47 capsules.<br />
<br />
We will be testing these capsules on <a href="http://store.studio939.com/product/ioaudio-mk47-bare-bones-kit" target="_blank">ioaudio mk47 kit</a> microphones. One inconsistency in the test is in the test bodies. I originally wanted to test all configurations on the Alctron GT-2B donor body, but the mount that I ordered with the Thiersch Blue Line capsule (suitable for original dimension bodies), did not have a detachable saddle, so I was not able to adapt it easily to the GT-2B body which requires a lower post height. So the Thiersch microphone was built on the 3 frame rail Alctron "MK47" (no relation to Max's kit) donor body.<br />
<br />
The next mic is the Thiersch microphone.<br />
<br />
Mic Specs: Thiersch Blue Line capsule, Western Electric 408a tubes, mk47 kit<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v140/p814114061-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v140/p814114061-6.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/mpd6bt7wh0jm80aad4ue" target="_blank">U47 Clone Thiersch - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/nggscq1vna4vbmrqpefp" target="_blank">U47 Clone Thiersch - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/u6nl641wu89w41sl1220" target="_blank">U47 Clone Thiersch - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/310wsex9444bk8fcyqsk" target="_blank">U47 Clone Thiersch - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
The next mic is the Eric Heiserman HK47 capsule. Note, this test microphone is built on the short GT-2B body as detailed in my <a href="http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=47112.0" target="_blank">build thread</a> on Groupdiy.com.<br />
<br />
Mic Specs: Eric Heiserman HK47 capsule, Western Electric 408a tubes, mk47 kit<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/30nht92x9unbytxppks6" target="_blank">U47 Clone Heiserman - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/dvr6a30a3oq8uz0n20if" target="_blank">U47 Clone Heiserman - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/dklirs1akd2010l3jttv" target="_blank">U47 Clone Heiserman - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/zdi97mg4dolch3n4do9a" target="_blank">U47 Clone Heiserman - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
I am usually very reserved about observations, but when we first put this capsule up on speakers, we were stunned by how good it was. I immediately called up Eric and told him not to touch anything on his spec, and honestly, this was the reason I had to buy a Thiersch Blue Line to compare against "the best" and confirm its pedigree. For this test session, this was the one that the singer kept coming back to and talking about. This capsule really was the standout surprise in the test especially considering the price of entry.<br />
<br />
The next mic is the Beesneez microphone built again on the short GT-2B body.<br />
<br />
Mic Specs: Beesneez M7 capsule, Western Electric 408a tubes, mk47 kit.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/dwdl8htubzwbp3wos0ym" target="_blank">U47 Clone Beesneez - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/d131vf1zxc8no6tikvd2" target="_blank">U47 Clone Beesneez - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/50cp8xnfa601ih141xmj" target="_blank">U47 Clone Beesneez - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/75ha1188fg3rz8lyu06m" target="_blank">U47 Clone Beesneez - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
To us, the Beesneez somewhat disappointed and just did not seem to have "magic" and range that the other 2 capsules exhibited. We did comment that somebody out there is really going to love it perhaps with really treble forward monitors. For our uses, this microphone got "voted off the island", and it has been returned to my workbench. <br />
<br />
Our final microphone is our Tim Campbell point to point C12 clone. A well-loved mic for acoustic guitars and specific singers in our recording environment. A more extensive battery of comparisons for C12 development were planned, but our other C12 microphone had a catastrophic failure that I could not resolve mid-session. So, for now, we just have a single C12 sample from this test.<br />
<br />
Mic specs: Tim Campbell CT12 capsule, 1956 JG GE 6072 tube, AMI T14 transformer, Matador C12 kit<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/8pn0v7cw8yd9666l0ohg" target="_blank">C12 Clone PTP - Love (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/0gmzwamoefobsyr2atvw" target="_blank">C12 Clone PTP - Love (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/5vfpv2uir48rvq51479x" target="_blank">C12 Clone PTP - Summer Time (WAV)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/vrxen2c73jj00xnq6gt0" target="_blank">C12 Clone PTP - Summer Time (MP3)</a><br />
<br />
The Heiserman equipped C12 had what I believe to be a capsule failure. The initial prototype capsules had a potential weakness in the backplate screw connection. The problem did exhibit itself earlier in pre-testing, but was resolved by slightly tightening the terminal, but unfortunately during our session, the problem recurred and this time permanently. Satisfaction is guaranteed on these capsules and Eric was helpful over the phone and will fix this or any other problems immediately, but it did set us back and a much anticipated data point is missing from this test session. The capsule was sounding exceptional in pre-testing and I had high hopes for it.<br />
<br />
I left the test session a bit disappointed that I failed to complete about half of the testing I had set out to accomplish. Our singer Margo Leduc was top tier to work with and one of the most efficient singers I have worked with. We had very, very few retakes and just cruised right through. She certainly had more capacity in session to make a few more samples. So, next time I will need to be better prepared. On the up side, I think we now have a framework to add additional samples in subsequent sessions that can compare directly with the audio samples we were able to gather here. So, we can build on our data set in a meaningful way to track our progress.<br />
<br />
In general, I am quite pleased with the improvements these clones have made to the studio's production quality. They certainly have raised the bar, and by building a few clones, I feel we are a few steps closer to having a top tier mic selection for production. Everyone's tastes are different, and I hope these clips and future tests will help microphone builders select their expensive build components based on informed alignment with their sonic preferences without as much stabbing in the dark.<br />
<br />
<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-41657555048663629862013-01-25T13:21:00.001-08:002013-01-25T13:24:02.441-08:00Nuts, Cables, and Random Observations about Fret ToolsI was a bit tired and tired of basses today, but a package came in the
mail from Redco. I thought I had lost my trusted cheapy Mogami
instrument cable, but it ended up being at the studio. . . but, I had
already ordered parts to replace it. . . 75 feet of Canare L-4E6S Quad
mic cable.<br />
<br />
I read on the talkbass.com web forum that if you wanted to get super-duper trick, you could
use the twisted pair XLR cables and connect the shield to the instrument
end of the cable and not at the amp end. . . essentially, you extend
the control cavity shielding all the way down the length of the cable. .
.so I thought I'd give it a go.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p56783078-5.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p130526877-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p457616088-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Plugged it in, and what do you know? It sounded like a bass. . . I
don't really know if there's any gain to be had with these. . . but, it
was worth a go. Plus, if it really works better at shielding, it might
save me sometime in a bad room with lots of interference. This cable ended up
costing about the same as a high quality instrument cable from the
normal sources, but I have a bit more peace of mind when I know all of the solder joints and components in my cable are top shelf.<br />
<br />
Next, the nut on #4 was giving me grief during the pickup shootout studio session, so I
thought it was time to take care of that once and for all. I don't know
how clearly you can see it, but there's a bit too much "custom
handmade" going on in this nut. It's pretty impressive. . . behold:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p146638818-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I will be replacing the stock plastic nut with a new custom fit nut starting from a 1/8" flat bottom graphtech TUSQ blank. First I had to thin
it a bit to fit into the slot. I just used the 300 grit paper that was
on the side of my leveling block.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p39794898-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Once the nut was able to fit into the slot, I needed to trim it to
length. I figured the E side would need to be a little higher, so I
decided to just scoot it over to that side and cut on the E side with a
file.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p518372382-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p319999589-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The Norman fret file system came with a little laminated print-out to help set string spacing, so I just gave that a go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p110408026-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I extended my mark perpendicular to the bottom<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p440774296-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, using the smallest file, I started my initial cuts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p236157135-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I widened them out with the appropriate sized file.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p157533193-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
All polished up . . .a drop of crazy glue under the nut and I'm good to
go. I'm guessing this is as good a nut as any. The only gripe I have
is the Norman files loaded up with teflon or whatever slippery stuff is
in this nut and became really difficult to cut with even though these
are plastic. . . . . plastic. . . anyways. If these files will no
longer cut right I'm going to have to talk with the seller. This is the
first nut on this file set. It should be cutting like butter.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p317727821-5.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
<br />
<br />
Some observations about tools. . . <br />
<br />
Norman nut file system <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/images/smilies/no.gif" title="No" />
do not buy this tool. I have requested refund via Ebay on these. The
metalurgy on these are not suitable for production work and they dull
WAY too fast. 1/2 of a simple plastic Graphtech nut and they're toast.<br />
<br />
I'm going to be placing an order with Stewmac:<br />
<br />
<br />
4551 Gauged Nut Slotting Files - 0.065" width $14.79 <br />
<br />
5313 Gauged Nut Slotting Files - 0.046" width $12.95 <br />
<br />
5314 Gauged Nut Slotting Files - 0.085" width $14.79 <br />
<br />
4546 Double-edge Nut Files - 0.105" / 0.120" $25.45 <br />
<br />
These tools total out to $67.98. The Norman system was $60 and I think the purchase was a bit penny wise, pound
foolish. If you're only going to do a couple of nuts, you can still buy quality tools and
sell them when you're done.<br />
<br />
As for the other essential fret tools I have been using, here are some thoughts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Fret files. . . ~$37 Stewmac standard steel crowning file works well and
will probably last a lifetime if taken care of. . . no regrets there.
It takes some finesse to use these really well. Chatter pisses me off
but that's the nature of the beast.<br />
<br />
Ebay cheapy dual side 150 grit/300 grit diamond file. . . ~$37. . . if
you are only doing 3-5 instruments, this tool will be ok, but the crown
pattern is not cut as cleanly on the tool and the diamonds will start to
fall off. This tool is not "forever", but it does leave significantly
less chatter than the steel file. I've been using this file a lot and
will use it until it dies.<br />
<br />
But, what I REALLY should have done from the beginning is just put down money for the Stewart Macdonald
diamond file to begin with. Again, if you're only going to do a couple
of basses, you can still sell the tool when you're done.<br />
<br />
Stewmac 16" precision leveling block. . . full of win. I use it with the 300 grit 3M sticky back sandpaper.<br />
<br />
Stewmac notched 2' straight edge. . . I reach for this tool all the
time. I bring it with me when I'm checking out an instrument to
purchase.<br />
<br />
Stewmac Fret Rocker. . .. awesome diagnostic tool. REALLY nice to have
in the backpack or gig bag especially when you are trying out an
instrument you intend to purchase. This tool finds things that would be
really hard to detect any other way.<br />
<br />
Cheap Ebay fret pullers. . . get the job done and I see no problems with continuous use.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-66269826086799202762012-12-08T02:50:00.000-08:002013-03-20T01:16:54.951-07:00Vintage U87 Circuit Clone Microphone BuildAt the heart of every successful recording studio is a closely guarded vault of high quality microphones. The ability to match a high quality microphone to whatever is being recorded is of critical importance to the recording process. Many vintage microphones now cost tens of thousands of dollars and new production boutique microphones while not as costly as original vintage units in good condition also demand a high premium. With the help of some enterprising people in the DIY community, it is now possible with a little bit of research and determination to build quite a formidable arsenal of clone microphones that faithfully reproduce the original vintage electronic circuits. One staple large diaphragm microphone design is the original Neumann U87. In this post, I will build a clone of the original U87 circuit. <br />
<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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The current AI version of this microphone retails for around $3,200. This build will consist of low-cost unmarked <a href="http://www.studio939.bigcartel.com/product/syt-5-microphone-body-kit">import microphone body</a> that I am now importing at quantity (based on ShuaiYin SYT-5 microphone),<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v60/p1163679432-4.jpg" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
a circuit board designed by poctop available for purchase in the white market section of <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49675.0">www.groupdiy.com</a>,<br />
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<br />
<br />
a <a href="http://www.tab-funkenwerk.com/id53.html" target="_blank">T13 output transformer</a> wound by Oliver at Tab Funkenwerk,<br />
<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v58/p651365988-4.jpg" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
and a high quality <a href="http://www.pelusomicrophonelab.com/parts/Capsules.html">P-K87i capsule</a> sourced from Peluso.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v61/p1047922415-4.jpg" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
Alternately, tskguy from the groupdiy forum hand makes a beautiful <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49859.0">K87 capsule</a> completely in the US at comparable price to the Peluso capsule. The resulting microphone should be uncompromising in sonics but cost less than 1/4 of a new U87 at retail and far less than a new condition vintage U87.<br />
<br />
After downloading the project files with schematics and a detailed excel file with the parts list, I used the link which automatically populated a Mouser.com online shopping cart with the required parts for this build. This microphone is a single JFET design that requires circuit optimization around the specific JEFT used. Even with modern component tolerances, these vary pretty widely. It is desireable for the Fairchild 2n3819 JFET specified for this build to select a JFET with low IDSS rating. The range for this particular part is 2ma to 20ma. Of the 10 fairchild 2n3819 jfets I purchased from the BOM, the lowest
IDSS was about 10.2ma . I did ordered a pile more of these on Ebay to try
and find a lower IDSS copy, and ended up using a 7.5ma IDSS copy for this build. As I understand it the higher IDSS JFETs will yield higher dynamic range before distortion, but the overall output level will be a bit lower than the lower IDSS ones. Anything along the mid-range of the spec should be fine. 8-12ma IDSS. One of the resistors which is commonly replaced by a trimmer pot is selected after the circuit is built to match the characteristics of the specific JFET to properly bias the circuit. This can be done by ear or by using a scope.<br />
<br />
To measure the IDSS values of the JFETs I acquired, I used the<a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=48030.msg606550#msg606550"> method described by Matador</a> in the official build thread at the groupdiy forums:<br />
<br />
Short
gate and source together (pin 1 and pin 2) and connect to the negative
side of a 9V battery. My multimeter in current sensing mode is hooked
up between the drain (pin 3) and the positive side of the 9V battery and
I measure the mA and make note. I found it easy to leave the jfets in
their bulk packaging and just write values on the cardboard.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1289025382-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
All of my current 40+ JFET's were between 4.4 and 15 mA IDSS with the majority of them being in the 10-13ma range.<br />
<br />
Next, according to the build documentation, R18 and R19 need to be matched
to .4% and my cheap multimeter is not up to that task. So, I went on
google and found <a href="http://www.head-fi.org/t/295983/tutorial-how-to-match-resistors-up-to-0-01-using-a-cheap-dvm">a method</a> that uses a wheatstone bridge.<br />
<br />
I'm not sure how actually accurate the method is, but I was certainly able to make differentiations between my 40 1% resistors. Which is better than I was able to accomplish by just using my meter directly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1289025728-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Utilizing
the 1st half of the described methodology, I was able to find 7 matching pairs to the
limits of my meter's sensitivity. Hopefully these are within .4%<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1289026620-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note, there are 2 versions of PCB's available for this project. There is a smaller tapered version that fits into a number of smaller bodied Chinese donor microphones. The one I am using for this build is the larger variant designed specifically for the modified SYT-5 body. The first step is to separate the 2 PCB's.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p1289026986-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Since
I started building mics, and read about high impedance sections of the
circuit needing to be clean of solder flux, I've been super-obsessive
about cleaning everything. I found some 91% isopropyl alcohol at the
convenience store and it's been working well for me for cleaning solder flux. Mechanical scrubbing with a toothbrush and generous use of the alcohol to dissolve and flow the flux off of the pcb works brilliantly to clean the boards.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v60/p1289027680-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The first of many dips into the cleaning solution.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v46/p1289028294-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I select one of my newly matched pairs of resistors and begin populating.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v56/p1289028910-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I use the smallest screwdriver shaft that I have to help bend the resistor leads nicely.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1289029098-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
I start to populate the boards referring back the BOM often. I did not sort all of my
components onto a piece of paper like I usually do because all of my
parts were still in their Mouser Electronic baggies and clearly
labelled.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v68/p1289030782-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I move to the capacitors. The tantalum caps have polarity, so heed the
markings even though they are small. I am building per the "original"
options on the BOM, so I will be using tantalum and polystyrene
capacitors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v55/p1289031092-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1289031156-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The electrolytics also have polarity, so make sure you get the "+" and "-" sides correct.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1289031316-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The teflon isolation pin is press-fit into the provided hole.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1289031536-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and,
most items are populated with the exception of the polystyrene
capacitors. I read that those are sensitive to alcohol, so I wanted to
clean the boards thoroughly before I install those.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v68/p1289031736-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note, the "Source" leg of the JFET is soldered to the teflon isloating pin and not to the through hole on the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289324188-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I pull some 24 AWG silver teflon wire that I keep around for projects. These wires can be purchased at reasonable lengths and in a variety of colors on Ebay.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70/p1289032098-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and I connect my wires for switches (Low Cut, Pad, and Pattern).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v57/p1289032456-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Before the polystyrene capacitors go in, I clean my PCB with alcohol and a toothbrush.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v61/p1289032670-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I trim the pin of the teflon isolator so the PCB's will clear each other when mounted.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v60/p1289033534-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and install jumper wires to connect the 2 pcb's together.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v65/p1289033846-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Every time I solder, I leave flux on the PCB, so I clean whenever possible.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1289034116-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And styrene capacitors are populated.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v66/p1289034782-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
at this point, I complete the connections between the 2 pcb's. A to
AA, B to BB, C to CC, and G to GG. Note, G attaches to the teflon
isolated pin.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v71/p1289035136-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The
large PCB leaves provision for separate installation of the bias
potentiometer. Unfortunately, the original BOM had a trim pot spec'd
that had staggered leg configuration instead of straight like on the
PCB. I simply bend the center pin a little bit to fit the straight hole
pattern.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v71/p1289035268-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
with
such a large diamter microphone body, I doubt it will be a problem, but
I install the trim pot at an angle to help with component clearance
near the edge of the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289035478-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, at this point, I make a quick check just to see where everything will sit inside the microphone's frame rails.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v57/p1289035940-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I pull a switch mounting pcb which I have a supply of in stock from
poctop as well as the 3 switches provided in the microphone body kit. 2 of the
switchs are on-on type and one of them is on-off-on for the pattern
adjustment.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289036376-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
solder a single pin on each of the switches to begin so I can make
small adjustments and line them up perfectly with the screen printing on
the front side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v55/p1289036592-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
confirming alignment, I solder the remaining legs and keep my
microphone outer tube handy because I will refer to the screen print
markings on the body to make sure I wire up the switches properly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1289065544-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, I take the opportunity to thoroughly scrub my switch PCB with alcohol.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289065854-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
I begin wiring the switches checking carefully to make sure my
switching corresponds to the markings on my particular microphone body.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v56/p1289066420-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A
quick test fit confirms my wire lengths are reasonable. I want the
runs to be relatively short, but also want to be able to move the boards
a bit for diagnostics and repair in the future.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v52/p1289066748-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
All 3 switches are now wired up.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1289067274-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v54/p1289067794-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Next, I pull some hardware. . . these are 5mm and 12mm M2 screws, 1/4
inch 4/40 standoffs (these are not quite "proper" but are what I had),
and some washers.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70/p1289852390-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
4 short M2 screws attach the PCB's to the frame rails. I made sure to
leave enough wire slack to be able to remove and work on each PCB if
necessary to change components.<br />
<br />
Washers and spacers go in to install the switch PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289852486-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1289852846-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
This
body was not originally designed for 3 switches. The reason I'm using washers is
to make this screw clearance under the pattern switch (that was not in
the mic's original oem layout).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1289853274-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Two
solutions are possible here. . . well, two easy ones and one harder
one. The easiest is the one depicted here which is add a washer to the
1/4" standoffs to clear the screw. The second easiest is bevel the hole
on the headbasket base plate and use a flat head washer in this
position. The third would be to drill 2 new holes to mount the
headbasket that do not interfere with the switch and tap those holes.<br />
<br />
Some people have requested detailed photos of the Peluso P-K87i capsule, so here we go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1289853352-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Note, the screw on the front edge of the capsule. . . the Peluso capsule can be a little bit confusing to wire up. Although it seems that front screw on the capsule edge would be the front side backplate screw, a trip around the capsule with a multimeter will reveal that it is in fact the REAR backplate terminal and is electrically isolated from the front backplate. Before final hookup of this capsule play around with it on your meter and make sure you understand which connection is the front backplate and which one is the rear backplate. In this picture, the top yellow wire is the front capsule terminal. The black wire is the back side backplate terminal. The front backplate terminal (blue wire in my case) will be screwed into the front backplate when we install the capsule onto the saddle.<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1289853470-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
capsule mount that is included with this mic body is designed for K67
installation and only has mounting holes along one backplate so I need to drill one mount hole manually onto the capsule
mount.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1289853546-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
It's
not the cleanest job because i had to enlarge the hole because I
originally drilled it in the wrong spot. Ugly, but it'll still work.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63/p1289853746-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
One
note about the capsule mount, it does sit a bit low in the headbasket,
but there is an easy solution. The screw thread is M3, and a standard
male to female M3 standoff at about 6mm length can be mounted under the
capsule mount and put the capsule right where it needs to be higher in
the headbasket. Easy peasy. I'll put one on my next order and
demonstrate.<br />
<br />
The Peluso capsule is supplied with wire tabs,
screws, and washers. I use 30awg silver teflon wire to make a backplane
connector.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1289854028-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I install the capsule and thread the wires through the nice pathways
provided. I quite like this capsule mount because the height can be
easily adjusted and the base shape is curved.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v56/p1289854112-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v55/p1289855878-5.jpg" width="425" /><br />
Next, up is the 3 pin XLR insert for the microphone. These bodies are supplied with 3 pin and 7 pin xlr inserts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1299771184-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1299771222-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
insert secures to the microphone body via a set screw that presses
tightly outward to the body when twisted in the reverse direction.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1299771296-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The
build could be wired for a cleaner look with a shorter minimum length
run of wire, but knowing me, I will have to get back into the PCB to
make an adjustment or a correction at some point, so I leave enough
slack in the line for future repairs, but not so much that it's overly
ugly. . . just borderline-moderate ugly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v65/p1299771478-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
HAa
ha!. . . right on cue, the Hakko 808 comes out and I'm swapping
components on the pcb. What ended up happening is I made a measuring mistake
because I was measuring from the gate instead of the drain with my scope
as I tried to bias the FET. It is very important to measure from the drain. Because I thought I had a circuit error and could not bias the FET, I started diagnostics and made a component swap that was not necessary.<br />
<br />
My
voltages were good at the zener (23.6v) so reading through the thread, I
replaced R14 (10K) with a pot. Note, all of this was not necessary
because I was silly and measuring from the wrong spot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1299771658-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
But, the extra slack in the xlr cable made repairs and changes much easier.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1299771870-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
R14 replaced with a pot set to 10K (original value) to start.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1299772522-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I adjusted R14 for a 3V drop across R14 according to diagnostic procedures outlined by Matador on the groupdiy official build thread.<br />
<br />
That
was when I realized I should go look at the spec sheet for the FET and
figure out if I was measuring from the gate (center pin) instead of the drain (outside leg). . . and
felt kindof silly. Anyways, here is the correct spot to inject signal
(without the capsule connected). The is at R6 which is installed
backwards from the silk screening per the build instructions.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1304770614-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the correct spot to connect the scope to measure at the JFET's drain.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1299784478-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, measuring from the drain, I was able to easily adjust the bias pot for symmetrical clipping.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1299773226-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And for this FET in this mic, the drain voltage was 11.04V in this configuration.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1299785148-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I solder in my capsule connections. When installing the capsule, I was
sure to remember where the front and rear connections are.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v55/p1299785940-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And
after some thought, I removed the pot at R14 because the build was executed correctly to begin with. Just for kicks, I measured its final value of the trimmer pot at 18K after it was removed. This was set to get a 3V drop
across R14. The stock value 10K yielded less of a drop, but I figured
why mess with the circuit if it's working as originally spec'd. I had
to disconnect the capsule, insert signal again, and re-bias the FET with
the original R14 back in, but since I was monkeying around inside the
mic already, it wasn't too bad.<br />
<br />
Next, I used some zip ties to
attach the T13 transformer. I could not make heads or tails of the
silkscreen letter designations, so digging through the official build
thread, I came across this image that Wave posted. Please note this diagram is incorrect for my T13 transformers as a large number of them were shipped with the yellow and black wires reversed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7241/7174554600_240a084539.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Because
a large number of T13's were shipped with wire markings reversed from
the spec sheet, I checked my transformer and it read about 21R on the
yellow side and about 436R on the black side, so mine was reversed. The
higher resistance side (yellow in my case) should go towards the
capsule side and the lower resistance side (black in my case) should go
to the output xlr.<br />
<br />
I didn't want to mess up my polarities so I
tried following the diagram and reversing the colors since I don't have
the foggiest idea what the silk-screened letter indications on the
transformer pads mean.<br />
<br />
so, with the transformer in the same orientation as the picture, the proper wiring for my transformer is:<br />
<br />
Left side black --> RT<br />
Left side yellow --> WS<br />
Right side black --> SW<br />
Right side yellow --> BL<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1299786280-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1299786482-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v66/p1299786676-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Once the transformer was installed, I proceeded to take beauty shots of the microphone interior because I thought I was done.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63/p1299787456-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
.
.. and after my nice photo session of my "final" build, I discovered
that the tube would not fit over the ziptie that held the transformer in
place. . . DOH! And I was so proud of my 3 zip tie solution.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1301073780-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
After getting over my distraught, I headed to the local hardware store
and found some small pieces of brass bar stock. I bought a thick one
that ended up being too tough to hand bend with pliers and a thinner one
that proved to be a bit more manageable.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1304900148-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A
bit of creative bending with needle nose pliers, and I create a little
recess to keep the transformer centered. Blue painter's tape somewhat
protects the brass surface from tool marks. . . kindof.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1304900376-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, we make our outside bends.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1304900622-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
use my fret cutters to shear through the brass stock, and it works
pretty well and I have a fair amount of control and precision with my
cut placement.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1304900818-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I leave the ends long, remove the base of the microhpone frame and determine my final cut points to make an exact fit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1304900996-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Ends are cut to length.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v68/p1304901264-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A
test fitting reveals that my tension fit is quite exact and sturdy. I
will not have to drill screw holes into the frame rails to support this.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v54/p1304901352-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, I make a few notches in the bracket to retain the zip ties that I will use to mount the transformer.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1304901778-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I position the bracket in its final location and use two small pieces of self-adhesive foam.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63/p1304901952-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
double sided adhesive on the foam probably would have been fine for
mounting the transformer, but I did not want to "stick" the transformer
to the bracket just in case I mucked something else up inside the
microphone and I would need to go back into it for repairs, so I found
some very think foam and stuck those on top of the adhesive strips.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1304902334-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Two zip ties secure the transformer hopefully for the final time.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v65/p1304903272-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Alright! Humans win. Time to take some more beauty shots of the completed microphone internals.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63/p1304903646-5.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1304904136-5.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1304904588-5.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1304905022-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1304905488-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, the cover goes on. . . and "Check, check, 1-2, 1-2, 1, 2, 3?"<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p1304905892-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And the U87 vintage circuit clone is complete. This microphone is a fairly straight forward build with a scope being optimal for setting proper JFET bias, but a method for accomplishing this fairly accurately by ear is provided in the build thread. Total cost for the project is also pretty reasonable at around $560.00 considering the parts used were all of premium quality.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />UPDATE:<br /><br />I'd like to share a quick little mod to the specific capsule mount that's provided with this body. The design of this cheap mount is growing on me a bit because it's really easily and cleanly adjustable for height. Originally, I was a bit bummed that the capsule sits pretty low in the headbasket, but because it is low, you can use a standoff of whatever height you decide to finely tune the capsule height and experiment with it non-destructively.<br /><br />Here, I will be using a 6mm height M3 threaded standoff to raise the position of the capsule.<br /><br /><img height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1322869896-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />First step is to remove the headbasket to reveal the capsule.<br /><br /><img height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69/p1322856602-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, carefully remove the capsule and saddle. It's strongly advised to not do this with a camera in one hand because the capsule is delicate!<br /><br /><img height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70/p1322856830-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />With the saddle removed, we can easily install our standoff to raise the post height by 6mm.<br /><br /><img height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v68/p1322857112-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, reinstall the saddle and capsule.<br /><br /><img height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v62/p1322857290-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Humans win!<br /><br /><img height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v73/p1322857450-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v67/p1322857996-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />I think the capsule height can go up another 2mm so an 8mm standoff can be used here to get the capsule position proportionally a bit closer to the original U87 position, but other variables may play a bigger role in sonic effects at this point like the headbasket being generally bigger than the original as well as the different meshing specs. I like this simple mod a lot. It looks like the capsule is where it should be.<br /><br />
chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-80492529192218134372012-09-25T00:32:00.001-07:002012-09-25T00:32:20.457-07:00Classic Audio Products VC528 BuildAfter reviewing my in-depth photo documentation of several microphone preamp builds, Jeff Steiger, the owner and CEO of <a href="http://www.classicapi.com/" target="_blank">Classic Audio Products of Illinois</a> decided to officially employ my photo-documentation services for his <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_117_120" target="_blank">VC528 kit</a>. This post utilizes the photos I made from the official build documentation. <br />
<br />
The VC528 is a unique 500 series or 51X module in that it is a "go-between" design. While it is common to find preamp circuits from a variety of vintage consoles in lunchbox form, this module re-creates the rest of the channel strip circuit of the vintage API console all the way out to the channel fader. Many have referred to this module as "audio bacon" because it can be inserted after or before any other outboard device and add the analog goodness of a full frame vintage console at a fraction of the cost and space. VC528 allows for a wide range of experimentation with gain staging when inserted into the signal chain because you can drive whatever previous device hotter or softer than normal and adjust for proper gain with the VC528 before hitting the recorder. Another common use for the VC528 is inserting a pair on the main stereo mix bus. For this application, Jeff offers stereo kits with closely matched resistors for optimal consistency of the left and right channels.<br />
<br />
In this post, I will show a complete VC528 kit build from start to finish. An assembly aid document as well as bill of materials, trouble-shooting tips, and calibration procedure can be found <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=44275.0" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="400" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v13/p532797865-5.jpg" style="background-color: #f0f4f7; border: 0px; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 17.46666717529297px;" width="266" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>The VC528 requires 2 opamps, and I chose to build a pair of Gary Barnett's <a href="http://www.studio939.blogspot.com/2012/08/gar2520-opamp-build.html" target="_blank">GAR2520 kits</a>.<br />
<br />
Packages from Classic Audio Products are always shipped with excessively secure packing, so sometimes it's a bit of a chore getting everything out of the box, but once freed from the encasing Styrofoam, here is the VC528 kit. This is the 51x version of the kit. I purchased a stereo pair of these with closely matched resistors between the 2 units. Only one is pictured.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p738860154-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />It
all looks a bit daunting, but I figure everything is designed to go
together in a very intuitive way, and breaking everything down into
small, easy steps smooths the way.<br /><br />Going by the preliminary build
documents, the "discrete follower" sub-board should be assembled first.
It is contained in this baggie.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p719180774-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />build document "1_DF.1-layout.pdf" identifies and locates all of the components. I start by sorting the parts:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p637397168-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Note: C1 is not used or included<br /><br />Closeup of Q1 and Q2<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p770189081-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Closeup of Q3<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p968086140-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Closeup of C2<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p732950804-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />I set myself up on a vise to solder most of these components.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p859877412-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Populating. . .<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p751091020-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p792160985-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p246822613-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />To solder in the L header, I used a clamp which left 2 leads exposed.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p607057146-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, component complete:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p843856998-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p579783198-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Next up, the relay board. . . details on components and placement are on "2_Plug-In-Relay.1-layout.pdf" in the support docs.<br /><br />The relay board will be found in this baggie:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p972229442-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, as usual, I sort and identify my electronic components first.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p1041536431-6.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Careful about a couple of the diodes. The markings are tiny. CR1 is marked like this:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p605946526-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />CR2 and CR3 are like this:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p775789131-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and what the heck. . . Q1<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p902901295-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Populating. . .<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p921799319-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p739269904-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p551685354-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p590592778-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p1017658355-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Again, I used a clamp to put the L-header on:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p861417774-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, component complete:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p733026873-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p827367917-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p975197454-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Next on the menu is the sub-ST2 board. Details about this board can be found in:<br /><br />"8_04-1x24 Rev A_Sub-ST2 Rev A.2 Overlay.pdf" and "7_Classic VC528 Sub-ST2 PCB BOM.pdf" in the build documents.<br /><br />The components for the Sub-ST2 board can be found in this baggie:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p678690104-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Note, in the stereo kits, you'll find 2x pcb's and a closely matched set of resistors in this baggie.<br /><br />Next,
I identify and sort the electronic components. For our build, even
though I'm doing a stereo pair, I'm showing components for a single
board in the photo. . . just to keep things consistent.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p679369312-6.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />These
resistors are very easy to identify because the values are all printed
at a pretty reasonable size. I double check them all with my multimeter
just to be safe.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p1059516465-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Here's
a little trick I learned from the draft instruction PDF jsteiger wrote
up to make clean, consistent bends on the resistors using the shaft of a
small screwdriver. Worked great!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p602163764-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and, we're populating.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p805787883-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p919620537-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p577304100-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and, a shot showing my resistor values more for personal reference later if I have a problem.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p941486962-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next
we install the 3 position toggle switch. . . the instructions say to
make sure and seat this one flush to the PCB and straight. I lightly
clamped the threaded shaft of the toggle switch like so. . .<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p801845701-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then,
it was a bit of a juggling job, but not too bad. I chose one of the
center solder lugs, pressed down with the soldering iron lightly and
soldered the joint. . . immediately when the solder melts into the
joint, and with the soldering iron still on the joint, I let go of the
solder wire, and press the PCB down firmly with my fingers. . . easy.
Then, remove the soldering iron and hold the joint until the solder
hardens.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p724639168-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />It
would have been awesome to have a picture holding the PCB with my left
hand, and with the soldering iron actually on the joint, but it was
logistically difficult having only 2 hands <img alt="???" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/huh.gif" title="Huh" /><br /><br />Verify that everything is fully seated. . . nice and straight:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p817236979-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />doesn't get much better than that, so I went ahead and soldered the remaining lugs on the switch.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p670850185-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, per the instructions, I cut the leads on the switch close to the PCB<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p618899650-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />OK.
. . instruction set says to leave the L-header, LED, and Grayhill
switch off for later steps, so we are done with this component for now.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p794144443-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p566768464-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><br />Next up in the build is the Elma switch sub-board. The parts are contained in this baggie:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p1067564030-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />There are a lot of resistors to sort in this little board. Here are the parts identified, sorted, and ready to go.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p569048016-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p541675721-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />and, we're populating in the order specified in the build manual. . . <br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p773058455-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p883651993-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p916836964-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p711824672-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p851113204-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p714520449-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p827971819-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p1013246646-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and, all resistors are placed.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p884664457-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p755689503-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p657894603-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Next, I check resistance between J1-2 and J1-3 looking for 1K ohm to make sure I did not bridge any solder joints.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p735710188-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and we're good to go.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p1011158034-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />The Elma switch is placed. . . a few pins needed to be slightly nudged into position before pressing into the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p838478102-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p562574834-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, here is how I set up to solder the switch<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p969238687-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, Elma switch is in.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p897516484-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p808309734-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p1052147345-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />I
checked resistance again between J1-2 and J1-3 to confirm we are still
at 1K ohm, and this sub-assembly is ready to go. We set it aside for
now.<br /><br />Next, I move to the main PCB starting with the diodes.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p507041359-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Watch out for the 1N914 CR1, CR2, CR3, and CR4. . . these look like this:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p775789131-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Also, watch out for 1N5243B CR9. . . it's marked:<br /><br />24<br />3B<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p328308671-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I placed the components on the PCB as marked.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p154927727-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p463005680-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, soldered the components in from the top side.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p261292798-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, diodes are done.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p192773095-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />
<div class="post">
<div class="inner" id="msg_575290">
Next up, I use a printout of the provided resistor sorting PDF to sort the main PCB resistors.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p252368537-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Note: R7, R8, R9, and R10 are packaged together and are .1% Vishay. . . R22 is the same value, but 1% Xicon<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p243513705-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />I then place all resistors on the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p376228237-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />and solder from the top side cleaning up joints as needed from the back side.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p318603265-4.jpg" width="640" /></div>
</div>
<br /><div class="post">
<div class="inner" id="msg_575291">
Next up, I use a printout of the provided film capacitor sorting PDF to sort capacitors.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p878930614-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Due
to possible confusion on the various labeling conventions on these
capacitors, I'm including pictures of the markings. I ended up having
C21 (.047uf) and C25 (.47uf) mixed up on the first pass, so please
double check!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p510025661-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p127575224-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p200126287-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p510486758-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p369450793-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p848197935-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p905915855-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p865829709-5.jpg" width="426" /></div>
</div>
<br />Having sorted the film capacitors, it's time to stuff them into the
PCB. On this point, I think there are better ways of doing things, as
I'm not 100% happy with how straight my caps ended up lining up on the
PCB, but for what it's worth, here's how I did it.<br /><br />First, I bent the legs of the caps a little.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p204670007-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, I inserted into the PCB and soldered 1 leg (I can seldom get the caps to seat firmly against the PCB by bending the legs).<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p203006558-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, with the PCB on it's side, I solder 1 leg of the film cap.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p363265845-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />(note: no picture of the next steps because i couldn't figure out how to do it without hurting myself or breaking something).<br /><br />Next,
I re-heat the 1 soldered leg while applying pressure to the cap with my
finger seating the cap. . . then, with the cap secured in position, I
flip over and solder the 2nd leg.<br /><br />At any rate, here is the board populated with the film caps. (not as straight as I'd like, but nothing wrong with it either)<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p467996696-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p155206835-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Let's dig up the rest of the caps for the main PCB<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p804090559-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p581342296-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Identifying parts again:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p631283205-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p562321907-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />C6 27 pF<br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p616187207-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />C5 82pF<br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p758206955-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />C29 47pF<br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p1026079640-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Watch the polarity of the electrolytics. The "-" side is indicated with a solid stripe.<br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p700108349-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And,
sidenote here, I managed to melt C20 when I attempted to touch up a
solder joint on the front side of the PCB. . . trying to make all
perfect solder joints for pictures. . . oh well. Jeff has been
contacted for a replacement WIMA. In the meantime, since I have 2 kits
for a stereo pair, I went ahead and replaced C20 w/ one from the other
kit, and the build goes on!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p895349653-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Caps installed.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p572505066-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I place the trimmer pot RV1<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p965991828-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And SW1<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p976444694-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next,
I install the millimax pins for the DOA's. They are found in this
baggie. . . watch out. These little critters like to run away, and I
once spent an hour looking for one on the ground from a VP26 build.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p881517118-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p994770259-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Insert these from the back side of the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p910731200-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And,
solder from the back side. I set my iron a bit hotter and made sure to
flow a proper amount of solder to make these solid as some op amps need
to be pressed in pretty hard to seat, and I like these sockets to have a
solid mechanical connection to the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p972934805-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p760859703-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, this is how they look from the front side after getting soldered in.<br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p560581065-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, the main PCB is populated. Humans win.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p673954430-3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next up, I install my 3 pin headers for configuring the VC528. These headers and jumpers are found in this bag:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p280048521-3.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p198819438-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />This will need to be cut into 5 separate 3 pin units.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p46458774-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v18/p22664734-3.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And installed in these locations taking precaution to stand them up perpendicular to the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p448036349-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p236737584-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />For the next step, I will need my grayhill switches found in this baggie:<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p76077927-3.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And use these installed from the front side to align my faceplate to the L-bracket.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p361922299-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />This will facilitate lining up the mini toggle switches SW3 and SW4<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p330824733-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p257639370-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Holding the switches firmly in place, solder the center lug only.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p531695627-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p299533273-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, locate the PCB mounting hardware.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v18/p375879319-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p246284774-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Install standoffs and screws as as pictured below.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v18/p352497275-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Making sure to leave the front 2 standoffs loose so the screw does not protrude over the top of the standoff.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p451743535-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, carefully slide the PCB into position.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p383916463-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And secure the nuts (without lock washers for now).<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p390747615-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Confirm proper seating of the mini-toggle switches as well as the PCB being precisely aligned with the L-bracket.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p146137895-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And solder the remaining lugs on the mini-toggle switches with the unit assembled.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p228529508-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p1061025080-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I take a close look at the Grayhill switches. . . this particular
kit is an early-run kit, and the position stops on the Grayhill switches
are pre-installed. Later versions of the kit will require placing the
stop pins as they will utilize a more universal setup on these switches.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p946537461-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />It
is important to position these switches perpendicular to the PCB, and
to facilitate this, jsteiger recommends starting with the inner switch,
soldering 2 outer rear lugs first, verifying component alignment, and
then soldering the front 2 lugs.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p714003743-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v18/p881437058-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p1014695654-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, proceed to the outer switch and repeat<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p1055605767-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p982011902-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p557959288-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />After all is aligned, carefully solder all of the remaining lugs. Check for solder bridges as these are pretty narrowly spaced.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p659167236-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next up are the 2623-1 transformers.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p34515538-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Locate the mounting hardware.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p480740588-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />The component sequence for installation is as follows: Screw, flat washer, transformer, flat washer, PCB, lock washer, nut.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p160160456-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p281715282-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p355302854-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p832407284-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p729533498-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, transformers are positioned on the PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p560362460-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Use
short segments of shrink wrap to consolidate the wires and solder to
the appropriate locations on the PCB keeping the wire runs short. Be
sure to route the wires well clear of the op-amp location.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p667582498-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p537821476-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p633382061-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I install the relay sub-board. Make sure the relay board does not short out against the transformer.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p994137018-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />. . .and the discrete follower sub-board. <br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p945815863-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, this is where I stopped tonight.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p942515266-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p1035978850-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
OK. . . last push. I took a moment to pause because the following
assembly steps were complex and I wanted to make sure everything was
clear in my mind before melting stuff together. After reading the
instruction set through a few times, I determined that hilarity would
probably ensue especially trying to photograph some of these steps by
myself <img alt=":P" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/tongue.gif" title="Tongue" /><br /><br />OK. . . next grayhill switch. This is the trim attenuator.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p872855927-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Make sure you don't lose those 2 barely visible pins. We need to insert one between "1" and "12"<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p828205445-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />. . . and another between "8" and "7"<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p1024051648-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />It'll look something like this from the bird's eye view.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v15/p797238899-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Next, install the stop retainer seal "sticker". Make sure the retainer does not sit on top of the raised center portion.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p605219753-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p713645153-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, we temporarily place the switch on the the sub-board without soldering.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p925510163-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />We are checking for resistors shorting against the switch's outer metal casing. The gaps are narrow.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p1006443755-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Having
established the components do not interfere, we align the L-bracket to
the faceplate again and secure with a clamp. Align the hole reveals as
perfectly as possible here.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p674023500-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Place the spacer washer on the grayhill switch.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p734138675-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And insert the LED. The small cathode end of the LED should go in the hole the arrow is pointing to.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p610736970-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, plosition the sub-board (w/ loose grayhill switch and loose LED) and lightly install the nuts.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v15/p537141637-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Fiddle with positioning until the board is perpendicular to the L-bracket and all spaces look even and correct.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v15/p715627876-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p830962714-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />According to the instructions, there should be a .410" gap between the L-bracket and the sub-board.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p921307172-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />After verifying everything is properly positioned, I tightened the nuts just snug.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p890093229-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, push the LED into the faceplate.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p967638020-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />This should protrude slightly in the front. Solder the LED in, and trim the leads.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p608302105-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p627039710-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then, double check alignment and gaps again, and solder the grayhill switch.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p613088269-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p724849572-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, locate the 2 L-headers. There should be a long one and a shorter one.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p1031317194-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Place the long one on the back side of the main PCB at J1-3.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p624017827-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Because we're getting close to that part with the hilarity, I used a little tape to keep this from falling out.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p568817467-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, place the shorter L-header on the backside of the main fader sub-board.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p767850300-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Ok. . . here's the hilarious part. This was an unbelievably difficult set of pictures to get <img alt=":)" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/smiley.gif" title="Smiley" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p625579734-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p963770007-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><br /><br />Whew. . . all components are in position.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p913072215-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, re-attach the main PCB to the L-bracket.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v32/p858727145-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, secure the nuts on the front faceplate. Make sure the main fader sub-board is pressed firmly against the main PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v28/p827234502-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p846536756-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Check
component alignment all around to make sure the sub-boards are
perpendicular. It doesn't hurt to be very careful at this stage as a
mis-step here could cost a lot of time and effort to undo.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p849821812-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p844375153-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I begin soldering the L-headers.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p1069953844-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p1014000457-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p1023788367-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p965570020-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Next, solder from the bottom of the PCB the near lead on the L-brackets. The rest can be completed at a later step.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p819156381-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p1018437248-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And, soldered in.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p1054869965-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, insert leads saved from the large capacitors into these slots.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p788779595-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And solder securely from both sides to make sure there is a solid mechanical connection.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v21/p831526118-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p926196106-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, disassemble the unit again, and solder in the L-header leads that were inaccessible in previous steps.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p732086458-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v20/p604940525-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Utilizing a cut-off from one of the transformers, create a ground wire between the trim-switch sub-board and the main PCB.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p575985266-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p486285920-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Electronic assembly is complete at this stage. . . next, re-assemble the main PCB to the L-bracket and the faceplate again.<br /><br />Oh, don't forget about the little spacer on the grayhill trim switch.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p508470574-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />This time, upon re-assembly, apply lock washers to the standoffs.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p507276136-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v31/p354581434-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Nuts
go on finger tight first. . .and then, using console tape on your
sockets to protect the faceplate markings, and snug down the switch nuts
with the protected tool.<br /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p179660165-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p342662406-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p188669320-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Poof!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p106374098-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p106374098-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p350425710-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, locate the baggies with the knobs.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v13/p522249985-4.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />First,
install the HPF knob. Use pliers to turn the switch to the 12Hz
position and tighten down the knob. This one should be pretty straight
forward.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p140168600-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next,
install the LPF knob. This one will be a little trickier because one
of the allen screws tightens against the flat portion of the shaft. No
problem. . . position the shaft with pliers to 18Khz position. align
the knob to point towards the "1" of "18" marking and tighten the allen
screw that does not land on the flat portion of the shaft. Then, as the
other screw is tightened, the knob will migrate towards center.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v34/p470189555-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />Position the trim twitch shaft to -3db and attach that knob as well.<br /><br />Next,
locate the main fader to 0db by observing the copper contact point in
the clear window of the switch, and secure the main fader knob.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p313163151-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Sticker time. . . <br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v30/p531814526-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p88725736-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p360718026-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next,
I take a look at the documentation and decide how I want to configure
the 5 jumpers. J6 activates an unbalanced output to pin 3 on the edge
connector for a future application. I set that to "NC".<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p156515136-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />J5-1,
J4-3, and J3-3 determine if the discrete receiver stage is inline or
bypassed. I opt for "D" or inline. J8-1 is the DC-link option to
activate mute logic on pin 6 of the edge connector. I set that to "N"
or not-linked since that's how jsteiger ships these stock.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p400768208-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v27/p13405391-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I hook the unit up without opamps installed and see if I read the correct voltages to the op-amps.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p126803095-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />All voltages read normal in +-16V as well as +-24V modes.<br /><br />The
red tape indicates this is my bricked GAR2520. . . I haven't been able
to figure out what's wrong with it, but it's the first op-amp that goes
into every one of my builds because the sockets are bloody stiff the
first time pins are inserted, and inevitably, I bend pins or need to
apply a lot of pressure to seat the op amp the first time. So, I beat
up on my bricked op-amp.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p338753942-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />After
I insert and remove the bricked op-amp a few times in both sockets, I
install a pair of fully functional GAR2520's and make sure to set my
voltage to 16V!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p327840404-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, there we are. . . assembly is complete on the VC528. . . Humans win!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p449922087-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p274218968-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v29/p216648709-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v13/p532797865-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v16/p133827599-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v33/p485538529-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<div class="post">
<div class="inner" id="msg_580640">
Good things come in pairs. Next, I finished assembly of the matched 2nd channel <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /> I will calibrate them both together, but need to put together 1 more GAR2520 tomorrow to complete it.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p566566910-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p881777339-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />. . . a little more casual with the pics and a much faster build the 2nd time through.</div>
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<div class="smalltext modified" id="modified_580640">
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A few logistics still need to be figured out in order to calibrate the VC528's in studio. First,
the calibration cable. Detailed instructions for assembling this cable
are included in the build documentation. Here is my attempt. It did
not turn out as clean as i would like, but it will get the job done.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p76511216-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />This
is the end that will be different from your ordinary mic cable. I am
using 2 VERY tightly matched (.1%) resistors. This is important. The
value of the resistor can vary. Any value between 100 ohm and 1K ohm
will do the job. These are 750 ohm.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p86133225-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />In
order to differentiate this cable from the others in the studio, I used
some creative shrink tubing. This will certainly be a clue that
something is different about this cable and trigger the recollection
that this is a calibration cable.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p402289108-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Next, I solder the resistors to pin 2 and 3 of my male XLR connector.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p109390642-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />. . .and twist the end together. Pin 2 from the female end will connect to the resistors here.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p215602644-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />I'm
using Canare L-4E6S cable. . . which is a bit of a pain to work with,
but I think is good sounding stuff. Probably completely unnecessary in
this application, but this is the only mic cable I had around at the
time.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p83678204-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p163754152-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p96528809-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Trying to figure out how to keep the mess from shorting. Not my finest DIY moment, but I think this will work.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p487932866-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p179785986-4.jpg" /><br /><br />The difficult end is done, and the other end wires up as normal.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p529547005-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Calibration cable complete!<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p239449084-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, I need to figure out how to get this unit powered up and
input/output functioning outside of the rack for calibration. There are
many ways to do this, so I thought about it for a while. This is
probably something I will need to do with other future modules, so some
good tools would help.<br /><br />First, I thought about just creating a 51X card that is merely a pass-through "umbilical" connector.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p413927849-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Then,
I thought about utilizing a little 51X "plug-in" power supply I had
rigged up with a JLM powerstation prior to the official powers supply
kit being available in the United States.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p76301878-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Luckily,
I had purchased some DIY supplies and spare parts to have in my bin for
situations like this, and came up with something I thought might do the
job more elegantly.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p305617449-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p215959713-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />My
initial thought was to jumper straight across for an easy build, but
then, I realized the modules would have to be inverted from each other
to work, and the handling may become awkward.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p43263749-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p177240355-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />So,
I abandoned that idea and decided to wire the adapter so the modules
could both orient face up which basically means connecting all wires to
the opposite end.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p399883771-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p126382008-5.jpg" width="426" /><br /><br />And,
this is what I ended up with. . . powersupply goes on the right side,
and the VC528 goes on the left side w/ the main input and output
connectors spliced in for easy connection.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p212384525-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And, all hooked up. . . <br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p417433630-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />This
is looking like it might work for when I bring this into the studio to
calibrate. One more small item remained, and that is an XLR cable with
test clips on one end to clip onto specific leads on the PCB. Again,
digging in my parts bin, I come up with this.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p467839677-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />Now,
I am really ready to get these VC528's dialed in, and hopefully have
some simple tools that I can re-use for calibration and testing on
other modules I assemble. Next, I bring the modules into the studio to perform the calibration procedure and hear them for the first time.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p867150818-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />And my tools deployed.<br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p1061975986-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />probes placed and adjustments being made. . . <br /><br /><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p743525985-4.jpg" width="640" /><br /><br />.
. . according to the detailed instructions provided, I feed a 400Hz
signal to the input through my special cable w/ matched resistors.
Then, I output directly into my A/D converter (apogee Rosetta in my
case) and monitor the output off of my little clips on the PCB as
pictured above on a metering plug-in in Logic (or any other DAW). I
turn the trim pot clockwise quite a few turns and then i see the levels
drop. Once I find the lowest point, I lock my setting in by painting
the trimmer pot with some nail polish.<br /><br />I'm running Gary's
GAR2520's in these VC528's because that was the opamp that jsteiger
suggested I run. From reviews of the VC528, it seems the GAR2520's are a
great "standard" opamp for these if you are looking for something with
some flavor but pretty down the middle for "general use".<br /><br />The
sonics on these units was pretty incredible. There are very few pieces
of gear that I would envision using ALL THE TIME, but inserting these
onto my main LR mix bus, bumping the level up ~4dB was so awesome I
really don't see a reason not to leave it there pretty much forever.
Added a bit of weight to the mix, gave me some harmonic dimensionality,
and made everything a bit punchier in a very refined way. I do not see
audio devices of this pedigree anywhere near the cost of entry.<br /><br />This
was not a unit that I would have sought out on my own, but when Jeff
asked me to do some official documentation photos for this project, I
looked at the likely applications and said to myself, "This really needs
to be a stereo pair." Having played with them for a short test
session, I feel very validated in that decision. I have yet to play
with these in tracking, but I would encourage fence-sitters to
experience these in multiples of 2 especially because Jeff matches many
of the critical resistors to .1% on the stereo bundle kits. The likely
stereo applications are too numerous IMO to do just 1. The mute linking
via pin 6 is also pretty trick.<br />
<br />
I hope this in-depth look at the Classic Audio Products VC528 "the missing link" module has been entertaining and informative. It is certainly a module to check out if you get a chance and are feeling adventurous. chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-21487667822801302712012-09-05T22:51:00.000-07:002012-09-05T22:54:16.457-07:00Basses for Newbies - Pickup ShootoutEver since we ran into the unfortunate "SX Effect" distortion problem in the stock SX pickups, I've been on a quest to locate a suitable replacement pickup for the basses for newbies builds. While it could be argued that the stock pickups work just fine for a beginner, one of my design goals is to deliver a bass capable of holding up to all types of situations a working musician may encounter. A real working tool that can be a long-term bass and not require upgrade (at least on the basis of playability or sonics). . . well, ever. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p199476771-5.jpg" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
With the very traditional NJ4 which I did not like very much, I discovered that part of the reason I enjoy the SX basses so much over other offerings on the market in the entry level price bracket is it's thicker growly tone. This knowledge guided me in choosing some options to try in studio. Obviously, it would be optimal to find a low-cost import pickup that filled the gap, but I cast the net wide to hear the options. Here they are:<br />
<br />
Nordstrand NJ4SE's. I'm noticing different wire on the coils on these
and they're wound pretty hot. I'm hopeful these will be in the sonic
range we are looking for. Nordstrand has considered on many occasions discontinuing this pickup due to customer complaints about its very different sonic footprint from traditional jazz bass offerings. Perfect for what I'm after. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p1038067995-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Also, the GFS jazz pro pickups came in. They are epoxied in so I can't see what's inside. These single coil pickups made from traditional materials seem to have a strong following and are wound a bit hotter than the traditional jazz pickup.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p1003439056-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I also found a pair of DiMarzio Model J's on the talkbass.com forum classifieds. These split coil humbuckers have been around for quite some time and also have a strong following. The fact that they are ceramic pickups may bode well for our test because the stock SX pickups are ceramic as well. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p627509877-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p627509877-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Mike and Carey over at Nordstrand brewed me up a nice pickup to try
based on my preliminary feedback on the NP4 pickup in #4. I am getting
"in my opinion" a lot of extra treble information from the pickup that I
either roll off on the tone knob or attenuate at the amp. I also
personally am not as into the "hollow/grindy" sound. . . so, they wound me a set of NP4's 10% over. . . beauties.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p23679097-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
We will attempt to track 6 samples songs for each of these configurations:<br />
<br />
1. #3 with Nordstand NJ4's<br />
2. #4 with Nordstrand NP4 (swap pickups during tracking)<br />
3. #3 with GFS pro jazz (swap pickups during)<br />
4. #4 with custom "hot" NP4 (swap pickups during)<br />
5. #3 with DiMarzio model J<br />
6. #5 (swap pickup during)<br />
7. #3 with Nordstrand NJ4SE<br />
<br />
I will be solder monkey for the night, Jon from Studio 1225 will handle
recording duties, and Jasaman will be the suicidal bass player. We'll
see how far we get before we crash and burn. That's 42 songs total.<br />
<br />
I believe we hit our goal with all 3 of the new jazz pickup options (GFS
pro jazz, DiMarzio Model J, and Nordstrand NJ4SE). They all gave us
the punch we lost with the NJ4 swap. It was good to know that all of
the options I had selected were moving us in the right direction and
technically, all of them "worked".<br />
<br />
Ok, some worked better than others, and at the end of the night, Jasaman
walked home with DiMarzio Model J's inside #3. The is a good gap
between the import GFS pups and the other more expensive US made options. There is something really special
I think about the NJ4SE and the Model J. <br />
<br />
I'd characterize it like this. . . the Model J is like a Yamaha or
Honda. . . it just runs and runs well without complaint. All of the
detail, grit, nuance, and punch that you need are there and it delivers
them in a very smooth "produced" manner. The pickup is easy to learn; great tone
is instantly available; and it does not mis-behave. It seems to me in
the studio, it has just the right amount of treble to keep the "clank"
down but still delivery a rich, smooth top end. Jasaman was not
looking at the price tags in this session. He was simply looking for
the best pickup for his needs among the candidates we had available.
This one went home with him.<br />
<br />
The Nordstrand NJ4SE is more like a Ducati. . . it also runs and runs
well, but it'll snap, growl, and get all sideways on you if you give it
the wrong input. It has loads of punch and I would say it has more bite
in the upper midrange and more extension on the treble. There's a big,
tight low end on this pickup as well. . . enough for any application
--> not as much as the Model J though. The NJ4SE is a very well
thought-out pickup that is very refined. This kind of balance does not
come by accident. While it is not as forgiving as the Model J, I would
venture to say it is more responsive to your finger inputs. A special
pickup indeed and I can definitely see myself putting this pickup in a
bass over the Model J. We tested the NJ4SE before the Model J, and when we
put this in, we knew it was great. . . period. At that moment, we knew
very few pickups would be able to top this. It's a touchy little guy
though, and may take some time to really get dialed in. This pickup I
think sits well into modern territory, but still flirts with
traditional.<br />
<br />
The GFS delivered a very similar sound and output to the stock SX pickup
without falling apart like the SX does. It does not, however give
nuance and complexity like the other 2. In my opinion, it is an ok pickup, but it is not a giant killer. It is, however highly functional
and a good step above the stock SX without a super-hefty price tag.
But, +$40 gets you into the Model J.<br />
<br />
All of this rambling is subjective banter though. . . sound clips will be forthcoming.<br />
<br />
It was not a 1-1 test like the Jazz pickups, but the Nordstrand NP4
trounces the GFS p-bass pickup. . . more solid bottom and more
articulation on the top end. I was extremely pleased with the custom
10% overwound NP4 and I came home with the overwound pickup in #4. . .
which was mis-behaving during testing because the nut slots were hacked
at the factory. I knew the nut would need to be replaced on this
instrument, but the frequent re-setting agitated the problem and caused
fret buzz on open strings. Still, the test samples were good enough to
give good data.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p199476771-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A sortof 1/2 Nascar pit crew, half recording session experience. The
speed at which I am able to dis-assemble, re-assemble, and set up an
instrument has never really been tested like this before.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p18784229-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p330461363-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, our winner for the evening. . . (tested it without the pickguard because it had to be slightly cut to fit the Model J).<br />
<br /></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p686014501-5.jpg" width="640" /></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
Anyways, these tracks are recorded straight digital into logic. The
bass signal chain is bass --> Countryman DI --> MCI console -->
A/D --> Logic. No EQ going in or coming out just the straight bass.
There is compression and limiting happening on mixdown. I wanted to
be honest about the bass tones, but at the same time reflect a real
world scenario. The basses all had different output levels so gains
were adjusted accordingly to get a good recording and mix.<br />
<br />
Control Stock SX pickup recording from previous session. . . sorry about the
disparity in levels. Different setup on an old analog console on
different days and I was the operator on the first series of tests. . .
Jon was operating on the recent set. Gain structure was probably set
different.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/lonk"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/lonk/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/vhch"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/vhch/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
New recordings:<br />
<br />
Bass #3 Nordstrand NJ4<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/bsyb"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/bsyb/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/dfbg"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/dfbg/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br />
Bass #3 Guitar Fetish GFS pro jazz<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/xbwk"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/xbwk/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/beuw"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/beuw/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #3 Nordstrand NJ4SE</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/nrsh"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/nrsh/stats.png" /></a> </div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br /></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/edcj"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/edcj/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Bass #3 DiMarzio Model J</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/zwnf"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/zwnf/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<br />
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/wrnu"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/wrnu/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Bass #4 Nordstrand NP4<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/ihgm"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/ihgm/stats.png" /></a><br />
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/tyyy"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/tyyy/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #4 Nordstrand NP4 10% overwind<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/zziw"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/zziw/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/exbv"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/exbv/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Bass #5 Stock MIM Jazz</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/bfko"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/bfko/stats.png" /></a></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
</div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/mlkx"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/mlkx/stats.png" /></a> </div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br /></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<br /></div>
<div id="post_message_8995791">
<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Come on Come Over</span></b></span> bridge pickup only tone wide open<br />
<br />
Bass #3 GFS<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/twiz"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/twiz/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #3 Nordstrand NJ4SE<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/lxtt"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/lxtt/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #3 DiMarzio Model J<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/vtsz"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/vtsz/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #5 Fender MIM<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/vwit"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/vwit/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
Master Blaster</span></b></span><br />
<br />
Bass #4 Nordstrand NP4<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/vheq"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/vheq/stats.png" /></a><br />
<br />
Bass #4 Nordstrand NP4 10% overwound<br />
<a href="http://tindeck.com/listen/ldmd"><img border="0" src="http://tindeck.com/image/ldmd/stats.png" /></a> </div>
chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-33375784891687023682012-08-24T00:58:00.000-07:002012-08-24T01:01:44.642-07:00Basses for Newbies - Bass #6Let's get #6 started. . . back to SX's . I've been doing a lot of jazz
basses lately, so I figured I'd try something different with a P/J.<br />
<br />
This bass was the one that's started this whole basses for newbies ordeal. It's been
sitting in the studio making its way onto various projects that come
through. I leveled the frets already, but think I need to take another
look at the level job and probably cut more fall-off. Hopefully this
one will be straight forward and fast. Mainly, this bass makes noise so
I will try to shield and re-wire. . . and throw in neck inserts. I was
debating the series/parallel switch on a P/J, but I think I'll put that
in as well just for kicks and giggles. . . see what "super phat" mode
sounds like.<br />
<br />
Thinking about trying out a GFS p-bass pickup on the neck position and
see if the shielding alleviates the hum issues on the stock bridge
position SX pickup because the "SX effect" only seems to happen on the
neck pickup. If it still hums, I'll have to look into a split coil
bridge pup.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p647162555-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
I was watching my puppy because she's recovering from surgery today so
I've moved the operation downstairs (have to keep her quiet for a few
more days).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p569961244-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Because I had originally meant to keep this bass as my only SX, I
exchanged it a couple of times due to neck pocket issues. . . this copy
has one of the cleanest neck pockets I've seen on an SX. No shim needed
either for low action setup.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p789640543-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
This is still the scariest part of the builds. . . everything inside me
is saying, "This is no place for a hand drill." But I keep pushing my
luck. . . a lot can go horribly wrong very quickly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p940595296-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Success!!! Humans win.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p872444316-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Some Slide Glide on the screw threads to help them torque down smoothly
and preserve the threads on the threaded inserts. I'm sure any type of
grease would work.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p886511271-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, the neck is set. Strings confirm that pickup, neck, and bridge alignment are ok.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p567875695-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Setting up to cut a bit more fall-off and to touch up the fret work I had previously done.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p762705513-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
What happens to puppies when they're hopped up on pain meds.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p678980128-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Confirming the fret level before crowning and polishing them up. . . I
learned from #5 that a few minutes here can save you a lot of headache
later when you string it up, and there are problems.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p604837689-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Some creative clamping on the coffee table to drill the control plate holes out for the larger pots.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p645633983-6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p584078078-6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
And, about 3 out of 4 SX jazz bass bodies need to be clearanced if you
want to use the standard large pots. . . what a drag. Out comes the
router.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p983215455-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p757868244-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, I'm trying the GFS p-bass pickup in this bass. I'm hoping it holds
up. It seems to be made from all the "right stuff". Since the SX
effect occurs primarily on the neck pickup, I'm leaving the bridge
pickup stock on this build for now.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p764903609-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, electronics are hooked up. I'm trying the push-pull thing on the P/J just to see what happens.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p1037497289-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p892535535-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, the nut slots were a bit high, so I cut them down a little. . .
well, I actually may have cut them a little close, but there is still
some clearance, so I think I'm ok. If not, I have tools and materials
now to cut a new TUSQ nut. It was really getting late. I should have
eased up a bit on the filing. We'll see if it buzzes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p651432859-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After I had it all set up and running smoothly, I plugged in, and the
bass sounded really really thin with no bass at all in the tone. It was
all upper midrange and really shrill treble. I thought my amp was
broken or something at first. . . then, after some fiddling, I
discovered this only happened when both pickups were on. .
.individually, the pickups sounded fine. So I figured the pickups were
out of phase. I opened it back up and reversed = - on the bridge pickup
and the problem went away.<br />
<br />
So, for now, besides knobs, #6 is DONE<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p821589642-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After sitting with #6 for a few weeks, it became clear that I was not happy with the action yet on this instrument. One of the problems with a bit of buzzing on open strings, so I decided to make a new nut for it.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p830027311-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The nut blank needed to be slimmed down and trimmed for length to fit
this neck. I used a dremel cutoff wheel to make the length cut and some
220 and 320 sandpaper on a flat surface to thin down the blank until it
fit snugly in the slot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v3/p842507713-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I cut the slots on this nut with Stewmac nut files. Here's the finished nut.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v3/p1046155220-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p617710393-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
As I was tweaking with the setup. . . using a little more relief, my
tuner went on the fritz and I overtuned the G string and it broke. . .
DOH! It's just like flushing $30 down the toilet. I wasn't terribly
fond of the black DR extra life strings to be honest (the cool blue ones
sound a lot more open). But it's always a bummer breaking things and
this bass did really look sexy with the black strings. I had actually
thought about putting a 500K pot in the P pickup to brighten it up a
bit, but it was clear after changing strings to the new SS Dunlops that the
pot change would not be necessary. the black colored DR's were very dull sounding, and the new strings brought back the treble extension.<br />
<br />
As the bass sits, it has a GFS P-bass pickup and the stock SX single
coil bridge pickup. I debated putting in a Nordstrand NJ4SE in the
bridge position tonight, but in the end, both parties interested in #6
have expressed budget concerns, so the stock SX pickup in the bridge
position is the no-cost solution. With the shielding, in my experience,
the single coil hum and noise is brought down to an acceptable level
and we had isolated the "SX effect" to the neck position pickup, so all
problems in this bass have been resolved, so for now, I'm leaving it
like this. It plays really well now, and I think it's now ready to
roll. I will wait another day or 2 for the strings to settle and see if
the neck makes any shifts, but again, I set this one at .085" action at
the 12th fret. . . +- .005" on the G and E string. . . the limiting
factor again being the D string buzz. That seems to be the routine with
these Dunlops.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p856072448-6.jpg" />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-36853103728334138702012-08-20T01:35:00.000-07:002012-08-20T18:34:01.287-07:00IJ Research F76 Compressor BuildThe Universal Audio 1176 FET compressor originally released in 1968 is broadly recognized as one of the all time great audio compressors. It seems every major studio has a few of these in their outboard racks and the particular way the FET circuit compresses is distinctive and a "familiar" sound due to the widespread use of the 1176 through the years in the industry.<br />
<br />
The I.J. Research F76 is a 51X format FET compressor designed around Universal Audio's revision F 1176 with a few very useful added features most notably, the addition of a 2:1 ratio, a side-chain high pass filter, and relay controlled true bypass. The kit also allows for a myriad of build options. <br />
<br />
Igor Kapelevich based in Haifa, Israel can only be described as a prolific designer, and he is the mastermind behind the F76 compressor. Igor's primary business is building complete turn-key audio devices for various studios worldwide and his custom work is not cheap, but he is very active in the DIY community and makes his partial kits and PCB's available for purchase as a side business so that DIY people have an opportunity to build some fantastic sounding pieces of audio gear at very reasonable prices. For support and technical questions regarding this project, please refer to the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=43338.20" target="_blank">official support thread</a>. To purchase PCB's and font panel/hardware kits check out the <a href="http://www.ij-audio.com/store/" target="_blank">IJ Research webstore</a>. Complete kits may be available again from time to time depending on Igor's current stock of parts. In this post, I will try to show a complete build from start to finish.<br />
<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<br />
As I began my DIY adventures, my first order of business was shoring up the studio's preamp options. At this point, we had some nice preamp options built so my attentions turned to finding a pair of nice tracking compressors. While we do run real tape and mix through a large format console, the majority of our work is now digital and there are some really nice plug-ins available for compression. It is a balancing act trying figure out which analog pieces are worth the cost and time to build. For a part-time small-budget operation like mine, we have to pick and choose our battles wisely.<br />
<br />
I decided the 1176 is a solid, economical choice and there are many DIY options for building this circuit all of which end up costing about $500. First, there are multiple physical formats (single, dual, and in my case 51X format). There are also at least 6 different revisions of this circuit produced by Universal Audio. <a href="http://www.hairballaudio.com/shop/" target="_blank">Hairball Audio</a> stocks critical parts, PCB's and kits for quite of few of these revisions in the standard 2U rack-mount format. For my studio, space is a major concern and the idea of cramming a pair of 1176 type compressors into 2 500 series modules seemed ideal.<br />
<br />
F76 is a pure 51X format module meaning it is designed to use the 51X spec +/- 24V power rails if the kit is built to its native configuration (using the original circuit). Igor has cleverly adapted the input and output amp sections of the circuit to standard 2520 footprint modules and the kit comes with sub-PCB options to build a variety of input and output amp options including the original circuit based on revision F. It should be noted that the original output transformer is too large to fit, but options for several functional transformers are provided. The original input transformer does fit and provisions are made on the PCB should you choose to use input iron.<br />
<br />
The overall experience building on of the I.J. Research kits is significantly different than the previous kits I have attempted which have all been essentially "paint-by-numbers" sorts of operations. Certainly people who are more electronically literate than me are able to understand at deeper levels what is happening, but essentially, all you had to do in the previous projects was make sure all the parts end up stuck in the right location and everything would be fine. The F76 is a "big boy" kit and is not set up the same way. Igor likes to design his kits with options, options, and more options for the builder. F76 can be build with input pot and IC line receiver or input transformer and t-pad. There are various input and output transformer options that would fit. The attack/ratio/release sections can be built with pots or stepped resistor switches. There are several different sub-PCB options included for input and output amps including Igor's own cascode-topology input amp design, the original 1176 rev. F input and output sections, an IC based input and output amp design, and of course, because the pin format is 2520 compatible, a whole slew of commercially available input and output amp options are possible. The kit can even be configured to operate at the VPR standard +/- 16V and run API-type opamps with API-type input and output transformers. Depending on which build option is selected, many of the component values shift. Instead of providing step-by-step type guides for assembly, Igor seems to pride himself on generating very clear, educational schematics and brief, concise descriptions for each available option. Often, components are not set to a specific value, but instead, a range of values is recommended. Igor is not as much concerned with providing a concretely defined product that delivers a specific sound, but provides a canvas or platform on which endless options, mods, and tweaks can be performed to customize to the builder's needs and taste. Also, because kits are not the primary business emphasis of I.J. Research, there is a much longer lead time to getting answers and individual support for questions that come up. I get the sense that Igor values experimentation, cross-pollination of ideas, and a deep understanding and appreciation of analog circuit design and does not appreciate it when people do not do their homework and repeatedly ask questions that are already answered in his meticulous documentation and schematics. "Study the schematics" is a very common answer that Igor will give to questions asked by folks looking for easy handouts. That being said, although not as accessible as some of the other kit designers, Igor has always been extremely cordial, helpful, and of great humor when I have tracked him down about a specific question. He is prolific in his designing and strives to deliver designs of the highest sonic pedigree.<br />
<br />
For a relatively inexperienced and electronically illiterate individual like myself, it can be a daunting task navigating the available options for F76. Luckily, I have a few friends who were able to talk me through parts selection and trouble-shooting late at night over the phone. For some of the more specific questions I had that only someone with hands-on experience with multiple configurations of the F76 could provide, I formulated my questions carefully and succinctly and asked Igor when I was able to track him down in his busy schedule.<br />
<br />
With that, here are the contents of the I.J. Research F76 full kit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p637583722-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Now,
we will see if this monkey can figure out how to it together. I'm sure hilarity will ensue as much of the schematics
look Greek to me, but that doesn't stop me from squinting at them for a
couple of days to try and get some orientation.<br />
<br />
This is very
different than the starter projects I tried before that were very
defined and to be honest more geared towards production and sales as
kits. If I understand correctly, Igor's main focus is manufacturing
small runs of completed units for his clients but carries a side benefit
of DIY availability. So, not as much hand-holding on the support side,
and a different type of documentation to study. Luckily, full kits
were made available, so much of the component selection (which would be
difficult and time-consuming for newbie) has been done. Still, this
seems to me like a big-boy project with lots of choices.<br />
<br />
Build options:<br />
<br />
I
figure Igor has had the most experimentation with various possible
configurations, so I will attempt to build to his preferred
configuration and hear the unit that way . . . which I understand
deviates from the classic 1176 sound but in his verbiage is more
flexible and sounds "more pedigree". Everyone has different tastes and
this kit has options, but I figure I'll try it this way first. <br />
<br />
1. Balanced Line Receiver<br />
<br />
2. I.J. Cascode input amp<br />
<br />
3. Grayhill stepped attack, release, and ratio (as supplied in kit)<br />
<br />
4. input/output pots (as supplied in kit)<br />
<br />
5. Igor indicates he uses "his own" output amp. I assume this is his Albatross opamp which is not available in kit form. I will build the original output amp option as well as try an APP2520E that runs on +/-24V. <br />
<br />
6. LL1524 output transformer (sourced through Igor's friend salvaged)<br />
<br />
Ultimately,
I would like to try all of the included amp options, but I assume I
will have to buy a few more small components to build out all of the
amps.<br />
<br />
<br />
OK. . . now that I have a general idea of my build configuration, I start the build by sawing apart the PCB's and cleaning
them up. I used a hacksaw blade, a wire cutter, and a file to get these
separated.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p587088541-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p1027047205-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p542883096-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and, pretty PCB's ready to go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p712163465-4.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
<br />
I heard rumor from a few people that there were some mechanical assembly
difficulties with the kit, so I decided next, I would try to assemble
the major components to discover what those difficulties are and figure
out a way to shift the tolerances so the build will be as
polished-looking as I can manage. I thought this might be important
before I started populating the PCB's so I do not accidentally install a
mis-aligned component that is difficult to remove and adjust.<br />
<br />
First, I located the main PCB mounting hardware.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p94685931-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And proceed to temporarily mount the main PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p355834183-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p96677933-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p301254899-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p293793600-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I located my input and output pots along with their nuts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p484473827-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, discover that they will not mount flush to the L-bracket without slight modification.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p8746091-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
so, I modify.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p31803881-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I discover the pots will not fit into the faceplate. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p4644233-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
So,
I use a 1/4" drill bit and open up the holes slightly. I ran my drill
backwards to get a smoother cut and try not to damage the nice
faceplate.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p452549159-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
no problem now.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p343427181-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p442108971-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p150033561-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I locate my grayhill switches<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p135062774-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
worried for a moment that I would confuse the 2 types of switches and
then realized that they have different mounting tabs. . . there is no
way to install them in the incorrect locations <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p526042149-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
But, unfortunately, they also do not fit on the faceplate. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p203920152-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
So, a bit more drilling for the grayhill switches.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p421083503-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
At
this point, I take a step back and decide that I should align the main
PCB components before moving up to the secondary PCB and the grayhill
switches, so I put the grayhills aside and concentrate on the main PCB
components.<br />
<br />
Next, I install LED's as clearly described in this thread by Igor.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p157719798-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p499448393-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p225500415-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p114136824-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I used a clamp to help me position the end LED's for soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p499484166-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p305810698-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p16767645-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p215525386-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and, LED's installed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p124391722-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I install my metering GR/output switch making sure to ONLY solder 1 pin.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p482826078-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I re-assemble to see how things are lining up.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p207708107-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, they are lining up poorly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p36777157-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
It
seems the LED's are pushing the main PCB upwards a bit creating a bend,
and causing the switch to move upward. The LED's are all soldered in
and I do not foresee them moving easily, so I decide to modify the
switch to fit better.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p79998626-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
figure I should try to compensate and make an adjustment so the switch
is not installed under strain. I remove the switch (luckily, I only
soldered one lug) and file the front mounting tabs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p54048014-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
now the switch will mount in a compensated position.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p321123961-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I re-mount soldering again, only one lug to verify.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p406719961-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, my alignment is now reasonable.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p256595250-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I install the external button to confirm<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p287103817-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And then, when I am satisfied that the switch position is good to go, I solder the 3 accessible lugs in place.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p39146212-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I disassemble and solder the remaining lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p50582962-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Here I am for now. . . slow, but steady gets the job done right I hope. . . next, I will align the grayhills on the upper PCB.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p438920479-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
at this point in physical build, I wanted to move upward onto the
chassis and place the control components of the attack/release/ratio
board. When I examined the board, one resistor would prove difficult to
solder after the grayhill switches were installed, so I needed to go to
this baggie and find R79 (270K).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p640351932-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p682484593-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
installing R79, I went ahead and installed the release and attack
switches soldering only 1 lug for easy shifting or removal so I could
verify physical alignment prior to soldering more.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p663912341-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p554061871-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
per
the instructions, the ratio grayhill switch needs to be trimmed on the 2
outer legs to allow the slam button to be installed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p575007090-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p636704127-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p932036121-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p556819182-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And those 2 legs can now be soldered in pretty much flush to the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p1071458226-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Verifying alignment of grahill switches attack, release, and ratio. Looks good. so far.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p1000010916-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The release switch along with the input/output pots will have to have their shafts cut at some point.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p1057581437-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Verify the grayhill switches are flush to the PCB. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p710031447-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and I solder in 1 more lug on each switch to secure the back side flush to the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p575743270-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Alignment is good still.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p984132183-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next I pull the switches for this board.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p1067803951-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And position them on the chassis to see where I am in terms of alignment.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p610744174-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Pretty good on the bypass, link, and HPF switches, but the slam switch is off a bit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p636770013-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
So, i file a bit on the front standoffs. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p544937511-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, it looks much better here.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p806755546-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . so I solder from the back side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p593258842-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, flip and solder the remaining lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p392645684-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next I solder all of the accessible lugs (including grayhills) with the switches, faceplate, and chassis assembled.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p448269757-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
disassemble, flip and solder the remaining lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p240812275-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
switches are all aligned and installed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p469104561-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p21527118-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p523066949-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I decided to stuff the attack/ratio/release board because I had it
out, and was already digging through the resistors. I discovered that
there were several different brands/colors/types of resistors, and
further, there were value substitutions in the kit. For a seasoned
electronics tech, this should not be a problem, but for a new builder
like myself, this is problematic.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p403529918-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
stuffing the board, I did not have confidence enough to solder the
resistors in without verifying substitutions are correct and proper.
Also, I am attempting to build a stereo pair, so I wanted to confirm
that my 2nd kit which due to packing mistake on the initial batch,
arrived quite a few months later with different components and
substitutions was not dramatically different. I tried my best to
shuffle resistors around between the 2 kits and match the values but
have questions about some of the changes and differences. To Igor's
credit, a few of the substituted value resistors in the kit had enough
spares included to cover another PCB. I need to find out if I will have to order some more
parts to get the values closer, or if this is all ok, and I can solder
these parts in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v31/p190395815-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
R25 (68K) on the ratio switch . . . one kit has 67.8K and the other kit has 68.8K.<br />
<br />
R74
and R75 (47K) on the detector. . . the closest resistors I found were
2x 47.5K and 2x 46.5K . I put 47.5K into the first kit and 46.5K in the
second kit because the schematic looked like these resistors may need to
balance within the circuit.<br />
<br />
RA9 (15K) one kit has 14.69K and the other 15.05K<br />
<br />
R42 (470R) was substituted 464R in both kits.<br />
<br />
R76 (470R) was substituted 462R and 464R.<br />
<br />
R79 (270K) the kit supplied these as 274K, but I am missing one. Kit cannot be completed without.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p120121375-4.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Should
I re-order any of these resistors to find closer matches? or is it ok
to solder? I will wait until confirmation before sticking these
components together.<br />
<br />
This is a bit frustrating for me chasing values around the documentation instead of moving forward with assembly. In the end, I went to a local electronics supply store and picked up a few of the values that were to my eye most mis-matched and soldered everything in noting my precise values in my notes in case I needed to re-visit the portion of the build later on.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p216356921-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
At the time, I was a bit frustrated, so I thought an input amp build might cheer me up a bit. . . please note, The kit only provided enough parts to assemble one input amp and one output amp. If planing to build all of them, some additional parts would need to be purchased. I wanted to try a few of them out so I will attempt to note and purchase the parts that I need to complete all of the amps.<br />
<br />
I figure I'll start with the Igor's input amp and started by putting the Mil Max sockets in. Your methods may be different and better, but this way got the job done.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p300419462-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
was hoping with the little ridges on the sides that there would be some
sort of friction fit on these to hold them in place for soldering
because I was afraid to get solder on the inside of the sockets and have
them seize up, but these are very small and very loose, so my plan of
attack changed to soldering these in from the bottom and hoping gravity
would keep the solder from flowing up into the sockets.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p92109700-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I had to re-heat and press down on the sockets to make them seat properly, but it seems everything worked out ok.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p60636152-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p8216326-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I inserted the milmax pins so I could have them aligned nice and straight when I solder them to the amp PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p352081437-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
AMPS-BAG3 contains the components for Igor's input amp. . . I hope.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p532071389-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
holes for C1 and C3 were very close to the milmax pins, so I thought I
should insert them prior to soldering the pins just in case I got solder
overflow and ended up plugging up the holes and making a mess.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p519549203-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, this is how I solder on the pins.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p243974049-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
did have to clean up the solder joints for the capacitors from the
bottom, and I probably didn't have to install them at the same time with
the pins, but better safe than sorry, eh?<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p295657644-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, we're populating.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p163509580-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p469403630-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A little piece of heat shrink tubing over Q2 helps to keep D2 and D3 from shorting against the metal part.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p183612587-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
D2 and D3 are marked like this:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p527446841-3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p154267866-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p324208607-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p30729045-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p101842917-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p158606340-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p219543567-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p45074195-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
D1 has the following markings:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p358896757-3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p230097320-3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p41651933-3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p225982379-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And
that completes this input amp. There is a modification that Igor
suggests for "tasty sound" that I may try on this amp as well, so I
should put that resistor on my shopping list, but for now. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p178775160-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p301078389-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Original output amp (AMPS-BAG2) "steals" the following components from (AMPS-BAG1. . . the IC output amp bag):<br />
<br />
1x 10p ceramic capacitor (10J)<br />
1x .1u ceramic capacitor (104)<br />
1x BD140 transistor<br />
1x BD139 transistor<br />
<br />
if building all amp options, these components along with extra Mil-max pins will have to be purchased.<br />
<br />
On to output amp. . . I chose to build the "original" amp. . . largely
because I do not own a vintage or clone 1176 and wanted to hear what the
original was all about. . . distortion and all. My gut feeling is the
IC output amp may give better sonics, but I have a pair of APP2520E that
can run on +-24V. In the original application (VP312DI), preferred the
GAR2520, so I can use these in the f76 builds if I like them. My plan
is to order parts to build all amps in this kit and hear them.
Contacted Igor about his Albatross op-amp that he prefers as well.
Options. . . no point having them if you can't hear them for yourself <img alt="::)" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/rolleyes.gif" title="Roll Eyes" /><br />
<br />
For this step, I refer to the following files in the documentation:<br />
<br />
orig_outamp.txt (component list)<br />
orig_outamp.png (schematic)<br />
orig_outamp.gif (PCB top view graphic)<br />
<br />
First, I use the main PCB to align the Milmax pins and solder in this position.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p413287209-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p289703671-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Most of the components for the "orginal" output amp are found in AMPS-BAG2.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p479875032-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, I begin populating the board:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p201238773-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note: in the next step, CBP23 (.1uf marked 104) is taken from AMPS-BAG1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p229779134-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note: in the next step, Q8 (BD139) and Q9 (BD140) are taken from AMPS-BAG1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p243833586-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p441607123-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p428471118-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p459634179-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note: in the next step, C12 (10p marked "10J") is taken from AMPS-BAG1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p425525220-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p413392673-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, the "original" output amp option is complete.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p202532284-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="458" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p6964729-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
for the zobel network in the LL1524 output transformer, I'm using 4n7
WIMA capacitor and 460R resistor. As I understanding it, higher value
resistor and lower value capacitor will induce less treble roll-off.
Igor concurred that these were the values he utilized on his builds. I
will have to wait for parts to arrive from Mouser, but for now. . .<br />
<br />
back to the attack/release/ratio board. Capacitors will be found in this baggie.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p549835851-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p144527575-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p242860219-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I assemble the interconnect cable for the attack/release/ratio board.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p183358606-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
trick here is to always be aware of pin 1's position and to make sure
the red-marked cable corresponds to pin 1. The PCB is marked for pin 1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p404351310-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v27/p479711058-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I used a C-clamp to seat the press-fit cable ends.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p262789196-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p139278171-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p354175874-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p31127514-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
double checking the proper cable positioning and pins are in the
correct locations via multimeter, solder the cable to the
attack/release/ratio PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p483503279-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p506224633-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I locate the Grayhill switch stop pins and retaining stickers. Watch
out. . . they're tiny. Now is no time to let things roll off the
table.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p481479477-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Per the documentation on the front end of this thread, insert the pins into position.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p390854465-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
It should look something like this when all the pins are in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p67437617-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, place the retainer stickers to set the pins.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p323196800-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Attack/release/ratio board is now complete.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p210931424-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Next, I decided to do the main PCB resistors. Note, because I'm building with the IC line receiver, I do not install R5' 270R.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p499975478-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p97190260-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the the main PCB capacitors<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p367462855-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p1003810999-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p393211983-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next up were the IC sockets, trimmer pots, and relays.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p160270577-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p397902333-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, more capacitors. . . watch out for polarity on these guys.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p515664787-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This cap did not have any polarity indication except for the long leg (+).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p400687254-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The + side of these little guys are indicated by markings. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p65218455-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Make sure they correspond to the markings on the PCB when installing.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p13173392-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, capacitors are in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p264845539-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p546319267-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p735957544-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
purchased a pair of salvaged LL1524 output transformers from Igor's
friend, and they were shipped with my kits. . . they probably didn't
know which ones were going in for photo shoot. There are a few dings on them, but hopefully they have been fully tested and passed muster.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v34/p771826160-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I don't think it's completely necessary, but I put a couple strips of electrical tape here.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p699393846-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And soldered the transformer in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p1058982323-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p830025784-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
that's where the project stands. . . just one resistor and one
capacitor left for the zobel network, and I can do final assembly and
calibration. I borrowed a scope and a signal generator from a friend,
so I'll have to learn how to use those funny tools in short order.<br />
<br />
I had a misunderstanding about the nut locations on the aluminum L-bracket, but I was able to sort them out. The nuts for the pots and grayhill switches seat
underneath the faceplate in the machined recesses. So, there are a
couple of threaded inserts and hex screws that hold the faceplate on.
These did not readily fit into the holes completely. Since the location
would be very difficult to tighten, I figured I'd just try and press
them in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p24762661-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p285187313-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p256016805-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Boom. . . works like a charm.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p425177560-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next
my Zobel network resistor and cap. R101 and C100. As I understand it,
the higher value resistor and lower value the cap, the less treble
attenuation will happen, so I went with those ends of the recommended
range.<br />
<br />
R101 469R<br />
C100 4.7nf<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p75873719-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
cap I ordered is wider than the PCB was designed for, so it did not fit
very cleanly, but I think this should hold up ok. I really don't feel
like delaying this project anymore.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p291844666-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p504953775-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p115044516-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I soldered a few leads onto the input and output pots.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p204196256-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . .and
connect to the PCB.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p72355395-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, per the build instructions in the 1st 2 posts, I connect my link lead just in case I use this as linked pair.. . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p68850546-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, it looks like I'm ready to apply power and do my 1st round of voltage checks.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p522147486-4.jpg" width="640" />Ran into some problems w/ my input amp upon initial testing . . . hopefully Igor can help me find the cause.<br />
<br />
Next, I connect the F76 to my testing power supply which is JLM powerstation supply all of the correct 51X spec voltages.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p353874247-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
No smoke! Humans win!<br />
<br />
Checking voltage at LM337. I am looking for -10v here according to test procedure. I guess -9.7 isn't too bad?<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p364082322-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
While I'm here, I might as well poke around a few of the other power points and check to make sure amps will be happy.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p416112168-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p346664361-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Installing test jumper<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p153731691-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Installing main PCB IC's<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p270145074-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p288229664-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p510292872-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p156733251-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Output amp goes in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p8924691-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Input amp goes in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p376260130-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p65479305-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
here's my problem. Test procedures say with input and output pots
closed, I should adjust the input amp's trim pot to read .3V - 1V with a
volt meter between the amps output and ground. At the end of the trim
pot's adjustment range, I can only get it down to 11.6V which is wildly
out of range.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p227400165-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<b><span class="bbc_color" style="color: red;"></span></b><br />
<br />
Igor was out of town on vacation with limited network access and indicated he would get to my questions when he got back. In the meantime I
attempted to build from my 2nd kit Igor's Cascode type input amp to test. I have
awesome pictures, but unfortunately, I reversed D2 and D3 1N4148 like an
idiot, so I got white smoke when I first powered it up. . . and I can't post the pictures because I
don't want anyone repeating that adventure. Since I was looking right
at the amp when I flipped the power on and shut it down in ~2 seconds,
I'm hoping the damage is isolated to those parts.<br />
<br />
Oh well, a trip
to the electronics store tomorrow is in order. I also recorded all
actual resistor values when building this one looking for discrepancies
that could cause my voltage woes, and noticed that R6 and R9 (R6 6 being
adjacent to the trimmer pot) have substitute values. . . 909K instead
of 1M indicated on schematic. I'll pick up a pair of 1M resistors as
well when I'm at the store and see if that gets me closer to where I
need to be. Guess that's a 9.1% difference though. Probably
insignificant but that's the only quirk I found.<br />
<br />
Once more the Hakko 808 is saving my butt. Pulling out D2 and D3 on a built PCB would have been tough without it.<br />
<br />
progress and problems today. . . <br />
<br />
First, I needed to repair the
2nd Igor Cascode-type input amp that I smoked last night. Luckily, I
have an electronics store local that actually has parts in stock. Hakko
808 to the rescue.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p885747333-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Since
I had my de-soldering tool handy, I decided to replace the 901K R6 and
R9 resistors on the 1st (mis-behaving) amp to see if that resolves my
problems with it.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p891053713-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
bad news is the 1st input amp is still not showing the correct output
voltage. It is now ~16 volts with the trim pot bottomed out. The good
news is, the 2nd unit is working within spec.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p948212295-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
It's trim pot is also bottomed out, but it's reading within the .3V to 1V specified range.<br />
<br />
Next, I took out a whole bunch of tools I have no idea how to use.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p736896891-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
My
friend let me borrow a function generator and a scope that didn't have a
probe. . . the electronics store luckily had a probe at a
not-to-astronomical price, so I was in business. So, these tools are
now on semi-permanent loan since my friend seldom uses them anymore and
they were in his storage unit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p1068334890-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3/p718695195-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Since
the F76 is balanced in and balanced out, I figured I should inject
balanced signal, so I'm using my direct box which is of the IC opamp
variety.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3/p794098659-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
the setup on my table for starting to test.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3/p584061618-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
ok.
. . after pushing buttons like monkey on the scope, I think I finally
figured out how to do some useful things with it. Please keep in mind, I've
never used a scope in my life, so all this is very new to me.<br />
<br />
First test was to input a .01v RMS (-37.78 dBu) signal into the f76. Here I'm using a 1K sine.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p591257097-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And
check output for ~37db undistorted gain. Here, I have 3.32v RMS (12.64
dBu) output w/ input and output pots both at maximum.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p643726568-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
At this point, I discover another anomaly that I do not understand. My pin 3 and pin 2 outputs on the f76 are off by a large amount.
Pin 3 output is 8.78db lower than pin2. I'm wondering if this indicates
my output transformer is defective. It is evident in the photos that
there is significant physical damage to the casing, but I assumed Andre
had tested these before they shipped. The above reading is off of pin 3
(the low output one).<br />
<br />
While keeping this issue in the back of my mind, I continue testing. I insert 1V RMS signal.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p796124400-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and max undistorted output on pin 3 is 10.2v (22.38 dBu) minimum of 24dB is Igor's spec.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p1025698932-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
max undistorted output on pin 2 is 28v (31.16 dBu)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p625780664-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and, another view of the pin 3 output which is low.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p177344079-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
ok. . . problems aside, I move forward. I adjust input/output pots to output 1.23v RMS.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p295115594-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and adjust trim pot until yellow light is solid on the meter. The GR switch is in the "out" position.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p35178407-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
At this point I had a couple of questions that needed answering.<br />
<br />
1. What is my next step to diagnose the malfunctioning input amp that is giving me ~16v at output?<br />
<br />
2. Do I have a defective output transformer that is giving me weak output on pin 3?<br />
<br />
Concerning the malfunctioning IJ Cascode input amp is still a
mystery to me. I went chasing around the schematic and PCB today with a
patient and helpful friend on the phone trying to figure it out.
Pulled the 50K trim pot. . . tested ok. . . re-installed it. Replaced
Q2, T3. . . no change. . . Replaced C1, C3 mostly to make sure solders
were all solid around the -24v area. Still no luck. This tiny amp was
kicking my butt. Very frustrating. After some more swapping, I found the problem to be a faulty BD139 on Q1. Once replaced, the opamp trimmed out to spec.<br />
<br />
Jeff from CAPI
helped with my second question. It's more of a common knowledge answer that I simply was
unaware of. Many output transformers do not have a ground reference, so
they are floating ground. The + and - side of output will not
necessarily reference to ground equally so the offset I am seeing on the
scope is normal. I decided to calibrate 0 dB with a sound meter w/ a
balanced input, and when I connected a load, the + and - sides evened up
significantly on the scope. The output transformer is fine. Verified
by pulling the output transformer and replacing it w/ same behaviors.<b><span class="bbc_color" style="color: red;"> </span></b> <br />
<br />
ok. . . one more push to finish up this build.<br />
<br />
Please note, this
step is pre-mature, so I will have to take out the audio and GR FETs for
a calibration in the following steps, but this is when I put them in.<br />
<br />
Audio FET here:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p346493286-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Gain Reduction FET here:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p282120568-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note
these are matched pairs provided in the kits and they are different
than original spec FETs so these insert reverse direction from the markings on the PCB.<br />
<br />
Next, I address a mechanical fit issue I noticed when rough assembling the module.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p160579574-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This nut is too thick to seat fully into the recess provided in the front panel, so we will have to thin it a bit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p162716615-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Some 220 grit sandpaper does the trick.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p156401396-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p492057572-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Fits now.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p158671637-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I take out my jumper, attach the attack/ratio board, and assemble the whole mess again.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p152206792-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p375371217-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p181390021-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The front panel needed a bit more persuasion for everything to align, so I filed a bit on a few of the holes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p153823392-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Voila!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p446419737-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I need to take care of these long pots.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p472118226-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
So, I use a straight edge and mark my cut location.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p438901041-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And cut with a cut-off wheel on a dremel.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p958708901-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Voila! Look at that precision. . . it's almost like they were cut with a laser beam.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p677594239-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This hex screw secures the front panel to the L-bracket. There are 2 of them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p1021383897-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p991559272-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I assemble knobs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p860269521-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And secure them to the pots and grayhill swithes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p823546819-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p922256589-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Now,
I need to remove my GR and Audio fets and inject -20dB signal. Input
pot set to max, adjust output pot to 0dB or 1.23v output.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p728570821-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p587507700-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I re-install the audio and GR FETS and adjust bias for -1dB.<br />
<br />
Next,
I adjust the Dist trim pot. . . I read the instructions and am not quite sure I understand the adjustment procedure, but I put the output on the scope, increased the output until I saw distortion on the sine wave, and twisted
the adjustment pot. So, it shifts the distortion more towards the top
or bottom of the waveform. I adjusted until it was even top and bottom which should give me the greatest gain before
distortion. I twisted the output pot back and forth from clean to
distortion and toyed with it until the top and the bottom of the
waveform flatten out at the exact same time.<br />
<br />
Next, I unplug input signal, put in GR mode and adjust 0GR trim pot for yellow LED to just light.<br />
<br />
Then,
I feet 0dB into the input, set ratio to 4:1 . . . and flip back and
forth between OFF and 4:1 ratio. I adjust the input pot until I find
the point where the difference between 4:1 ratio and OFF position is
10dB.<br />
<br />
Here's my reading at 4:1 ratio.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p846522103-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And my reading at OFF ratio.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p910124615-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
At this point, I return the ratio knob to 4:1 and adjust the GR scale trim pot until the meter reads -10 <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p692764152-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
At this point, the unit is calibrated and ready to run. Humans Win!<br />
<br />
The only remaining step is to put the caps on the knobs and take pretty pictures of the finished product.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p846441576-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p789414964-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p817347398-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p914200996-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p912041504-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p689904404-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p707096027-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p857716982-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Well,
there it is. I learned a lot from this project. It was the 1st time I used a
scope. I was trying to figure out why the math all didn't work until I
figure out unity is 4dB not 0dB for this equipment. I learned a bit
about output transformers and floating ground. And I learned hot to use
my Hakko 808 desoldering tool a lot better.<br />
<br />
Well,
I hope this gives everyone a getter look at the F76 project. Most of
the calibration steps can be done with a volt meter or plugged into a
DAW. One step (dist adjustment) is best done with scope. I chose to
use the scope for many of the calibration steps because it's a new thing
for me to learn to use.<br />
<br />
I'd say this project mechanically is not
the simplest and there are a few mechanical tolerance oddities and more
general futzing than some other kits, but in the end, I think the final
product if carefully assembled polishes out really nicely. The
internal component arrangement is slick, and the feature set is
awesome. 2:1 ratio and true relay bypass is awesome. The metering is a
treat to use. I really like the way Igor set up the physical metering
and programming to drive the meters. Very intuitive in use. I can't
wait to get this module into the studio and hear it in a good listening
environment.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-58651190149241003462012-08-16T22:40:00.002-07:002012-09-22T02:09:16.874-07:00VP312DI Microphone Preamp BuildOne preamp that was very interesting to me from my initial DIY research was the <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_117_55_92_96_157" target="_blank">VP312DI</a> kit from Classic Audio Products of Il. One of the main reasons I wanted to try this kit was the feature set seemed very conducive to live use for bass guitar. It has some really cool modular features that allow for a wide range of customizations. In particular, this preamp has easily detachable modules to allow for 4 completely different flavors of DI. It also has a built-in switch to bypass the DI module and inject the signal directly into the opamp which yields a different sound option that is built-in and always available. In addition, the opamp is a standard footprint 2520 opamp. Because this preamp comes in a full 51X Alliance standard configuration, not only are API-type +/- 16V opamps accepted, but a number of +/- 24V opamps can also be used. The DI section of this kit also has a selector switch for 16V and 24V operation depending on the module being used.<br />
<br />
So, in short, there are a mind-boggling array of possible configurations for this preamp kit that can all be changed quickly and without soldering. For this build, I will explore a few of them.<br />
<br />
opamps: GAR2520, APP2520E (+/- 24V)<br />
DI modules: FET DI, Picatron passive transformer DI, and the IC chip DI<br />
<br />
The current revision of the VP312DI preamp has a <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_117_55_92_96" target="_blank">new option</a> on the PCB for stepped resistors on the gain knob, so you can now choose between the constant variable Bourns pot (as depicted in this older revision build) and the Grayhill switch with stepped resistors when purchasing this kit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p500779487-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
There is no in-depth step-by-step
assembly guide for this build, but a lot of critical build information
is consolidated in the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/%20http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40821.0" target="_blank">official support thread</a> on the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/">http://www.groupdiy.com</a> forum. All of the critical build documents (schematics, bill of materials, and assembly guide) are also sent via email upon purchase. In this post, I will attempt to detail every step of the VP312DI kit build.<a class="bbc_link" href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40821.0"></a><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
When I first approached Jeff Steiger about building this preamp kit, he suggested I try the <a href="http://studio939.blogspot.com/2012/08/vp26-microphone-preamp-build.html" target="_blank">VP26 kit</a> first because it has fewer components and is more newbie friendly. These were among the very first DIY electronics kits I had attempted, and I was quite glad I followed Jeff's advise as the VP26's are brilliant sounding preamps with a different sonic footprint than this VP312DI. Easily the most difficult part of assembling these two fine preamps was tackling the <a href="http://studio939.blogspot.com/2012/08/gar2520-opamp-build.html" target="_blank">GAR2520 opamps</a> as the parts are very closely packed. It is my hope that these step-by-step build threads will allow those on the fence about DIY to take the plunge.<br />
<br />
With that, here are the contents of the VP312DI package that I received.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p794285822-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
identifying generally how everything was organized in the baggies, I
figured I should identify and sort parts first. I grabbed my cheap
multimeter and pulled up a capacitor ID chart as well as a resistor
color code chart on my web browser and got busy sorting. The bill of
materials documents are organized by PCB, so I pulled up the PDF for the
main board first. The baggies that contained the DI kits seemed all
self contained, so I set those aside for now.<br />
<br />
I started with the
diodes. (note:I'm going to go ahead and apologize now for the size of
some of the upcoming images. I figure clarity trumps load time. This
forum does not seem to auto scale, so I will try to be cognizant of
typical display resolutions.) To organize, I used some 3x5 cards a pen,
and some console tape. I'm sure there are probably more efficient
methods to be had, but this seemed like the thing to do at the time. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p1052706068-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
ok.
. . I just realized I did not label CR7 (1N5243B) [top one in the above
picture] on my card prior to shooting all my photos. The markings on these things are absolutely minuscule and the
clear body with contrasting internal colors does not help a bit. What I
wouldn't give for a macro lens right now. . Here's what they look like:<br />
<br />
labeled:<br />
24<br />
3B<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p781607643.jpg" /><br />
<br />
CR1 and CR2 (1N914) look like this:<br />
<br />
labeled:<br />
91<br />
4B<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p682530557.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p652848059.jpg" /><br />
<br />
CR3, CR4, CR5, and CR6 (1N4004) are much easier to identify<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p697293334-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A few strips of console tape secure these diodes to the card for easy access later.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p722882955-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I sorted my resistors checking both on multimeter and color code chart.
Hopefully I got these right. Again, a piece of tape secures these to
the card.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p261984535-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, I identified my electrolytic capacitors which was easy as they are all clearly marked in legible print.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p307172155-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And add a bit of tape to secure them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p680663724-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
same for the film and ceramic caps. The markings on the blue caps are
somewhat difficult to read, but not as hard as the diodes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p133295744-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
C5 (.1uF) is marked like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p685640154-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
I have identified and sorted the parts for the main PCB. A few
components from the baggies I opened are unaccounted for. I think those
will probably come into play on one or more of the smaller PCB's in the
build. But, for now:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p538763087-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
one more set of parts to sort before I can start sticking stuff
together. I figured out what those "extra" parts were. I know it's one
thing to have "extra parts" when you put your car back together, but I
figured electronics is a different animal. These are the parts for the "sub-DI" board:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p115001066-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
CR1 and CR2 (1N5242B) look like this:<br />
<br />
label:<br />
24<br />
2B<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p144047780.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Main board components are accounted for. Following Jeff's pointers on
the official support thread, I use 2 of the smaller PCB's as spacers for
the output attenuator pot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p382996044-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A bit of console tape helped me keep everything together so I could solder a couple of lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p348193874-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p346372710-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
then found these standoffs, screws, and nuts to mount the main PCB onto
the aluminum L bracket to test the fit before I solder more lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p125206938-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I tighten down the rear standoffs to final torque. They will not be coming back off if all goes according to plan.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p18967236-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
front ones go on loosely so the screws do not protrude above the
standoff. this is so you can slide the knobs through the front panel
holes without interference.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p126142987-5.jpg" width="426" /> <br />
<br />
the PCB should slide into the bracket and align with the standoffs like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p394843587-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The height of the pot in relation to the L bracket and the PCB looks good.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p411228560-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p366302550-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
then remove the PCB from the L bracket and solder all of the lugs on
the output attenuator pot. After this, I place the preamp gain pot but
don't solder anything yet.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p195391331-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I re-assemble the PCB and L bracket again without soldering the preamp gain pot yet.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p174249696-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I assemble this time with the front panel to precisely align the preamp gain pot to the chassis prior to soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p308056077-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Notice
the spacing on the reveal between the L bracket and the front panel.
In all of these parts alignment procedures, I'm trying to make that
small reveal at the top of the L bracket parallel with the front panel.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p281948410-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
am able to reach 3 lugs without much difficulty, so I solder those with
the PCB/chassis assembled to lock in the position of the gain pot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p181736741-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p369812598-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
and, soldered in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p270046683-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then I take it apart again and solder the remaining lugs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p350627844-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p254772492-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I install CR3, CR4, CR5, and CR6 because I need the cut-off legs
from these diodes to mount the small DI sub-board to the main PCB.
Polarity matters when mounting the diodes. Makes sure the end of the
diode with the solid line corresponds with the little arrow mark on the
PCB when mounting these.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p222598564-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p534208467-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The small DI sub-board goes here:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p520499198-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Per
Jeff's notes in the support thread, I secure 3 corners first. Except I
did not populate the board prior to assembly. I figured it would be
easier to clamp without any components mounted, and a quick study of the
board seemed to indicate I would not have any problems installing any
necessary components after it is attached to the main PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p520293394-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I used 2 clamps to ensure solid contact between the 2 boards prior to soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p158163545-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p76406479-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and corners are tacked in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p161489447-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The rest of the appropriate holes are filled . . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p100956060-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v8/p44091865-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and the 2 boards all soldered together.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p42477718-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After the boards are solidly attached, I set about populating the DI sub-board.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p235704423-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p399571386-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The 3 small toggle switches that control DI functions look like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p229307888-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
They are a bit tricky to position for mounting. I ended up securing them like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p221385629-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and then, I added a piece of tape to put some downward pressure on the main PCB so the switches pressed firmly against the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p311020698-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
then soldered only one of the main mount lugs on each of the switches
so that fine adjustments could still be made to the final position.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p515773070-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, it was back to re-assembly to make sure everything was lining up still.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p138258154-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p406027720-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and I decided I could reach all of the switch solder lugs with the chassis attached. So that's how I soldered them in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p66068617-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Jeff's notes said the pins for SW1 need to be trimmed to fit the small PCB that supports the 1/4" jack.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p423258756-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
That small PCB goes here:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p130467878-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the jack mounts like this. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p265008374-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Jeff's
notes warned about the possibility of the PCB being longer than the
jack housing, and mine was by a hair, so I used some 220 sandpaper on
the table to grind down a little bit of the PCB's front edge.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p433916754-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . good to go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p258276436-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
think I did the next set differently than described in the support
thread, but it seemed to have worked out. First, I placed the connector
without soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p160807312-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p484959264-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then,
I inserted the jack/PCB (also not yet soldered together) into the front
panel hole at an angle. . . and then rotated the assembly into the
connecting pins.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v5/p532400727-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p375459486-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then secured the nut for the DI jack to lock everything in place.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p61876182-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
way I saw it, I could reach all of the significant solder lugs from the
outside with the PCB attached to the chassis and the jacks/pots
attached to the faceplate. I thought that would give me the best shot
at perfect alignment of parts, so I soldered everything with the front
panel attached.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v8/p483412225-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v0/p85609713-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Progress.
. . all of the key front panel elements are now precisely aligned.
From building the VP26, I know the 3 push button switches have a lot of
margin, so chances are, they will not be problematic if the rest of the
pots and switches are aligned with the PCB, L bracket, and front panel
reasonably well.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p183448230-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, I place the mute,
phantom power, and phase reverse buttons. These gave me grief on
the VP26 because I didn't set them right the 1st time. In hindsight, it
would have been fine to just leave them as originally installed instead
of re-heating and mechanically buggering the switches (pushing so hard
the pins got pushed upwards in the housing. . . and then I had to
re-heat and press them back down). This time, I made sure the little
plastic tabs were touching or darn close to touching the PCB before
soldering anything.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p454356364-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And then, I only soldered in 1 pin on each connector at first. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p84231120-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
.
. . so I could re-assemble the PCB to the L bracket and faceplate to
verify what I already knew would be the case. . . the buttons are
sitting fine. Well, the preamp looks all upside down, but besides that,
everything is fine.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v0/p198844951-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, I dis-assembled the preamp again and soldered up the push-button
switch lugs. Jeff recommended a soldering sequence in the VP26 manual,
but I just made sure I jumped around like I was A.D.D. when soldering
these in hopes of not overheating any single component.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v5/p230132649-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
At
this point, I believe all of the mechanical components that can cause
you grief in physical assembly if mis-aligned have been set. So, I
thought it would be a good time to start populating the main PCB. I
went with resistors first. Since I had already pre-sorted my
components, it was now a simple matter of locating the marked slot on
the PCB and plucking he right part from my little 3x5 cards. It's
sometimes confusing when you don't have some sort of step-by-step
instructions to figure out what to install first. Everything on the PCB
looks pretty accessible, but the reasoning behind my particular
sequence was to start low on the PCB, and install those low components
first. . . then, install higher and higher ones because the high
components could potentially hinder me from reaching a lower component.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v7/p455382381-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v5/p181145597-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then,
my diodes. . . (Note: polarity is important for diodes. . . each one
will have a stripe on one side. Make sure to align the stripe side of
the diode with the little arrow marker on the PCB.)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v6/p529379258-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, my ceramic capacitors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p289354639-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p193255476-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
For
the ceramics, I ended up bending the leads outwards to secure the
component and then soldered from the back side as opposed to from the
front side for the resistors and diodes.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p429541088-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
chop choppy.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p354895466-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
was trying to figure out how to keep the film capacitors from falling
out of the PCB when I turned it over to solder, so this is what I ended
up doing.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p230554815-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, the film capacitors are in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p12025771-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then,
the radial caps. . . each position on the PCB is marked + and - . I
made sure the vertical strip on the caps with the "-" sign in it aligned
with the - terminal on the PCB for each of the Radial caps. I hear
this is important.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p385704989-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And again, like with the ceramic caps, I bend the leads to hold the radial caps in place to solder from the bottom.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p240928219-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I dumped out a pile of pretty little socket connectors for the op amp and DI plug-in modules.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p29981676-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Jeff's
notes indicate that it's important to install all of these from the
bottom side of the PCB. Notice one of the holes does not require a
socket. This one does not have any markings next to it on the front
side of the PCB because, well, I guess it doesn't have a function?<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p448189685-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p30796086-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
When
soldering these little buggers, I turned up the heat on my soldering
iron. . . (Note: I'm not sure this is a prudent thing to do, but those
lugs looked hug and the pins have a lot of thermal mass). I upped the
juice to 380 degrees Celsius on my temp-regulated iron (that has stopped
me from burning up a lot of bass guitar pots). I head at the seam
between the socket and the PCB lug and continue to apply heat until I
see solder run down the PCB lug hole and feed quite a bit more solder
through than I would a normal component. I want to create a strong
solder fillet on the front side and the back side of the PCB in one go
so the sockets have no chance of slipping out as they will be
mechanically stressed when inserting and removing modules.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p273632144-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
this is how the front side looks keeping in mind this was 1 pass,
meaning I didn't touch up any of the lugs from the front side because if
I melt the solder, the socket would fall right out if soldering from
the front side. This ensures that there is solder within the full
length of the PCB lug as well as on top and bottom. Some are better
than others because it's a blind process, but I made sure there was
"something" on all of them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p214720119-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I installed the switches that toggle between 16V and 24V for the op amp
and the DI module. I'm so glad this design fully utilizes the 51x
feature set!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p378348906-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p444990499-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And again, tape to the rescue to hold these on while I solder from the back side of the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p462485971-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Voila!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p293364021-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Up next for no apparent good reason except it needs to get done at some
point is the input transformer. Note the black dot on the sticker
indicating pin 1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p352419168-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note the dot on the PCB indicating pin 1.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p390790170-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
It's critical to install the transformer with the proper orientation.<br />
<br />
Jeff
likes to use double-stick tape under the input transformer. Poor folks
like myself don't have access to such fancy pants items, so I ended up
getting some electrical tape and making a little donut with it
sticky-side-out . . . elementary school style.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p399111448-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p366380467-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
white tape indicates pin 1 since I obscured the PCB markings and I
don't want to muck this up because i have no idea how I'd get the
transformer out after I stick it in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p436223621-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, humans win!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p21397873-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
While I'm doing transformers, I figured I'd move on to the output
transformer next. First, I went to dig up these parts from the
appropriate baggie.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p421581911-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Screws go into the top side of the transformer with a flat washer between.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p451792264-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then flipped the transformer over and placed flat washers on the under side as well. These flat washers will contact the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p372159517-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
found the easiest way to get the thing placed was to turn the PCB on
its side and mount the transformer this way. . . make sure the wire
leads are on the top side of the PCB. . . well, I guess you could
install it with the wires pointed down, but it wouldn't be as clean.
(side note: it's extremely difficult holding a large DSLR camera with
sizable lens in left hand while trying to place transformer with right
hand.)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p140107733-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
OK.
. . now, all I have to do is grow a 3rd arm and throw a lock washers
and nuts on those screws from the back side. (and don't forget to take
some pictures <img alt=":-\" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/undecided.gif" title="Undecided" /> )<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p151781873-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p463081608-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p45389641-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
The nuts go finger tight so I can turn the PCB over and line up the transformer with the lines so it looks pretty.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p435167402-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
when it's all lined up, I torque down the screws. . . not too tight . . . not too light.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p246945535-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, you have to use your imagination a little bit and figure out where to cut the leads.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p217267699-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
1st one of these is never going to be as pretty as subsequent builds,
but since Jeff was kind enough to post actual cut lengths in the VP26
manual, I figure I'd go ahead and measure mine after I chopped them,
stripped ~1/8" from the tips and tinned them with a little solder.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p162497810-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
I used a couple pieces of shrink wrap to tidy things up a bit. . .
completely optional IMO. It doesn't look stupendous, and it doesn't
look horrible.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p341281396-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p180519034-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Next up, the 2 relay boards:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p481250027-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
There
is one diode here we haven't seen yet 1N749 4.3V which is CR1. It
looks like this. . or, I hope it looks like this otherwise, I'm in big
trouble.<br />
<br />
labeled:<br />
9C<br />
4V3<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p253603873-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
We've seen the other diode before 1N914 (CR2, CR3), but here it is again for kicks and giggles:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p652848059.jpg" /><br />
<br />
I decided to populate this board from top to bottom (similar to the GAR2520 kit)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p495297340-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, here's how I ended up holding the piece while soldering<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p1728217-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p29271115-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p66618782-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Ok.
. . I wasn't 100% sure about this, and I think those black box things
are relays, but I aligned the white marking on top of the PCB with the
marking on the black box thingies. If I'm wrong, I'm in for a world of
hurt trying to get those guys out.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p394088939-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
'Cause they're stuck on now pretty good.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p109549901-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
next, find this piece in the appropriate baggie<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p321822863-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I secured it to the relay board with a clamp.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p217888255-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I clamped all but 2 lugs and soldered the exposed lugs. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p491138083-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
.
. .then, I shifted the clamp to expose 2 lugs on the other side and
soldered those. Then, I removed the clamp and soldered the remaining
middle lugs.<br />
<br />
Voila!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p403994592-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Pay attention to the markings that are now barely visible on the relay PCB's when installing. The DI relay board goes in here:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p59110726-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the other one goes in here.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p107081291-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
relay boards are a bit tricky to install straight. Here's what I did.
I put a small piece of loose packing foam under the relay board and
then flip the PCB upside down.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p137195963-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
foam pushes up on the relay board, and I scootch things around until
the relay board is more or less vertical and has solid contact on the
PCB. Then, I solder from the back side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p106438585-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Voila!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p198452801-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p490960212-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I dug up the orange and red wires cut off from the output transformer and stripped/tinned one end:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p174770219-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then soldered them into the slots labeled "1" and "2" on the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p277724095-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I attache the PCB to the L-bracket and front face. Hopefully for the
last time in a long while. The only difference this time is I use a
lock washer between the nut and the PCB lug.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p115327198-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I then tighten down the front panel nuts to final torque. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p262338547-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
then, I go dig the phantom power switch up from the appropriate baggie.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p326831979-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Install
this with the lock washer between the switch body and the font panel so
the switch has less tendency to rotate. (not pictured. . . oops)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p33094746-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
per Jeff's notes on the support thread, I bend the short end of the LED pins a little bit and put a piece of shrink wrap on it.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p391697396-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then placed the LED and soldered the bent short end onto the last lead of SW5.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p170378770-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
For
the next part I deviate from the method outlined in Jeff's notes
slightly. If figured for some non-existent reason that I wanted a more
solid mechanical connection for the LED (in case of future dis-assembly
when it's discovered i mucked something up).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p600531795-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And Voila!<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p298085377-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
I was getting really tired at this point and wanted a "finished" preamp
so I could pat myself on the back and feel good, so I looked at the
baggies with the 3 preamp modules I had to try and find one with the
least number of parts. . .<br />
<br />
WINNER = Pikatron!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p170094723-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
shoved the pins into the appropriate slots on the PCB which was really
difficult because the sockets are new. . . I ended up having to use
small plug-in PCB to push down hard enough to seat the pins.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p529201093-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p433711768-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
pins were a pain to solder on because the Pikatron PCB is single
sided. There are no lugs to solder to on the top side so initially, I
relied on the solder that could creep down the pin to the back side of
the PCB. When trying to extract the PCB from the socket (very difficult
the first time), I ended up bending a good number of pins because one
side released sooner than the other and very suddenly. . . but, this let
me see how flexible and tough the little pins were. . . I ended up
just soldering the pins "free" on the back side of the PCB so I could
get a good mechanical solder joint on there and trust the pins are
"close enough" to bend into the correct position when inserted. . .
which worked out fine in the end.<br />
<br />
Notice the rubbed off orange
dot-ish marking on the pikatron transformer as well as the solder lug at
pin 1. . . (or, I hope that's what I'm seeing). There is a
corresponding dot on pin 1 of the PCB. Make sure these are aligned
prior to soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p515688093-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Pikatron complete. . . (notice slightly bent pins)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p161934197-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, the preamp is now fully operational. . . well, in theory.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p279605168-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
per
the VP26 build manual, I used a dab of dish soap on the tips of the
push switches prior to installing the white and black caps which helps
those go on.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p397899168-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Humans win!<br />
<br />
<br />
But then, I had a conversation with Jeff, and it seems I missed a cosmetic detail.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p522745098-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This
is the nut that's supposed to be on the face of the 48V phantom power
toggle switch. . . pretty. When I first took the toggle switch out, I
couldn't get this nut to thread on, so I thought it must have been
"extra parts". . . you know. . . like when you put your car back
together.<br />
<br />
Can't have my build not live up to expectations, so back in I go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p112191707-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p479456433-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This is the proper setup. . . toggle switch --> nut --> lock washer --> L-bracket --> faceplate --> pretty nut.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p102876416-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p470248033-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Much better. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p533908129-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I decided to build the IC Direct Inject module next.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p526879184-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I started by putting the pins into the sockets. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p450420713-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I placed the board on top of the pins and soldered.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p499897464-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p345360887-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And. . .the sequence I stuffed the board in.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p517060758-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p506811687-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I rested the IC socket on something to hold it in place for soldering<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p81150538-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p329302732-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
radial caps get soldered in. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p52806611-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p425130503-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p187142609-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p161633581-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p51735356-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p67125080-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /><br />
<br />
<br />
2 down, 1 to go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p253357186-4.jpg" width="640" />The last HiZ Plug-in is the FET
one. Lucky for me, this one has no repeat parts so watch out. Every
component is different.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p53303019-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Watch out for this Tantalum cap (C2). It has to be installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p63342034-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The 2 transistors are different (T1, T2) and the markings are hard to see.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p367345085.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p423332244-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I start again by inserting the pins into the sockets.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p333355546-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then,
I solder in the PCB with the pins aligned in the sockets making sure to
heat the pin enough to flow some solder to the other side of the PCB
for a better mechanical connection.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p457485739-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I stuff the board.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p9211123-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p488813767-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The tantalum capacitor has a marking for the + side. Make sure to line that up with the silk screened + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p29085766-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, finished.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p190470070-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p394877216-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And then there were three <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /> <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /> <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p425648773-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Project
complete. This has to be one of the most customizable and configurable
preamps in existence. I don't even have all of the modules. But, i do
have a pair of gar1731's coming in so I'll be able to test those as
well.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p401262870-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In the end, I liked the IC DI module the most. The FET unit is quite edgy to my ears, and in common applications like acoustic guitar pickups can get a little harsh. The Pikatron unit is pretty "down-the-middle", but seems to loose a little bit of detail and I like the gain of the IC DI module, so that is the one I have installed in this preamp permanently. At the end of the day, it was the GAR2520 that I liked in this preamp for most applications. The APP2050E does give a cleaner, more modern sound with GOBS or gain, but the VP312DI's serve most often in our studio connected to kick and snare, and for that specific application, the GAR2520 is fantastic.<br />
<br />
<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-19180169611504368962012-08-16T01:58:00.001-07:002012-08-16T01:58:35.995-07:00Basses for Newbies - Bass #5 (part 2)This is the continuation of the Bass #5 build.<br />
<br />
We start out this installment with new electronics being installed.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p515213775-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p26820074-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />And this operation is almost done. . . ready to close it up. One more detail. . . I don't know why I didn't think to do this before
as it's a lot cleaner than crushing wire under the bridge.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p440320476-6.jpg" width="426" /><br /> <br />
The nut slots were a bit high on the G and D strings, so I brought out
my little Norman nut slots files for the first time to give 'em a little
zap. Nice and easy on these. A little cutting goes a long way.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p383384384-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
As I was setting this bass up, I noticed 2 things. . . one, this was
just about the most un-inspiring instrument I have ever played. . . I
knew the strings on there were pretty new so I had a little argument
with myself about how the cost is already high and how it would be a
waste of a "good" set of strings. . . blah blah blah. I finally decided
to just swap out the strings (D'addario nickel round wounds). I've
never been a fan of nickel strings, and no offense to people who like
them, but this particular set on this bass sounded beyond mediocre. . .
just downright uninspired tone. I plan to do some testing with the
bass, and I'd just be wasting precious studio time if I left the strings
as they were as it would be a string comparison as opposed to a bass
comparison. In order to get good data, I had to swap 'em out.<br /> <br />
I was also getting fret buzz along a large portion of the neck again. .
.not isolated to one fret. . . large areas. . . I took my notched
straight edge out and figured something out. I knew I needed to cut
more fall-off because the buzz was coming from the last couple of frets
and since this neck was so straight and the Fender frets are small, I
didn't want to cut too much fall-off. It didn't make any sense to me
why on all of the basses, I needed to cut so much fall-off. Most people
talk about creating a few thousandths of "un-noticeable" fall off, but
I'm hacking off huge chunks on all of these builds. The straight edge
under string tension revealed a hump starting around the 15th fret
extending to the 20th fret (right where I typically cut my fall-off. . .
to the 15th fret). So, in effect, I'm not really creating fall-off but
under string tension, I'm flattening out the fretboard because the
truss rod does not pull evenly all across the neck. I'm now starting to
really think about a neck jig because I would be able to compensate for
the hump much more precisely when I'm doing the initial level. So, I
learned that conditions on a loose neck and conditions under string
tension are very different. By trial and error, I had figured out a way
to compensate for the problem in my setups without actually identifying
it until now. At any rate, 3 layers of blue painters tape on the 11th
fret. . . I cut my fall-off to the 15th fret (where the hump begins).
And then, of course, crown and polish those frets. . . .. . again . . .
. <br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p390235962-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />And the setup is now sweet. . . the new strings sounded great. . . in
fact, that's one of the really nice things I've discovered in these
builds. It thought initially that these Stainless Steel Dunlops would
be a great "budget string". . . but I have discovered that these are
just fantastic sounding strings all around. As of right now, I think
these are on par or better than any other high dollar string out there. .
. seriously. What a find. The bass really came alive after the string
change. I put a couple of black Fender knobs on so the set is not
mis-matched anymore, and #5 is DONE!!!<br />
<br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p442399013-6.jpg" width="426" />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-11564318565241490492012-08-16T01:52:00.001-07:002012-08-16T01:52:34.060-07:00Basses for Newbies - How to Install Copper Shielding FoilIt seems like there are a lot of folks out there with questions about
how to shield the control cavity and pickup routes. I figured I'd take
some more in-process photos on this one and see if it's helpful. This
may very well not be the best or cleanest way to do this, but it is
"one" way that works for me.<br />
<br />
Let's start with the hardest part. . . the pickup cavity. I start from
the bottom of the route and work my way up, so the first step is to make
our bottom piece. I measure a piece of 50mm foil to the length of the
pickup with an extra ~1/4" on top and bottom.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p43540010-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Then, I position the piece over the pickup route and rub on it to create a indentation of the route on the foil.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p233638230-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Using a pencil I make 4 lines with particular attention to the corners
of the 4 rounded screw holder portions of the pickup route. You may
need to squint a bit to see the marks on the foil.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p65294966-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And then, I cut the foil like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p461902285-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Now for the hard part. . . it gets kindof messy. The thing to keep in mind when doing the base part of any shield job is to <span style="color: red;">KEEP THE FOIL OFF THE EDGES UNTIL THE BOTTOM IS COMPLETELY SECURED</span>..
.. and there are some messy gymnastics that happen to keep the foil
from sticking pre-maturely to the edges. If you stick the foil to the
edges first, it will tear when you try to smooth it into the corner
cleanly. It may take a few tries to align the foil, but what you want
to do is start at the very center and sick that to the floor of the
cavity . . . and then, start to smooth it outwards from there keeping it
off the edges until you have the corners pressed down solid with your
fingernail.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p208658672-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p346963011-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p372300139-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p60246733-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After you have the bottom secured and the corners all pressed in with your fingernail, press the sides down securely.<br />
<br />
And, here's now mine looks with the bottom in place. Don't worry if
there are some little tears or gaps. You can go over those later with
small pieces of foil<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p433418386-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The next part is easy. . . use 19mm tape and go all around the sides of
the route. Your reference will the the top edge. Align that first as
you work your way around. Make sure the top edge is aligned and pressed
in as that's your visible (pretty) edge. . . and after that is in
position, secure the rest of the foil. Work your way all the way around
with one continuous piece.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p495922110-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p292546266-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p499840866-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, one pickup cavity ready to go. . . I'll still have to go back in
and fill in those little holes in the bottom corners with tiny scraps of
foil and then remember to solder those together so the entire shield
has continuity.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p510092576-6.jpg" width="426" />sadf<br />
The process for the rest of the control cavity is very similar. . . the
main concept is the same. . . keep the foil off the sides until the
bottom corners are cleanly laid down.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p329014955-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p98139091-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p168320305-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p388329465-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
For the sides of the main control cavity, I cut a custom width piece so that I can hit the entire side in one shot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p383843520-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p83473483-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, the main compartments are done.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p531371028-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Next, I find a drill bit that fits easily into the pickup wire drill
hole but fills most of it up. . . I wrap that with foil with the sticky
side facing outward (sticky to the touch).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p535269986-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Then, I take another piece of foil and wrap it around again (my Chinese
foil is a bit thinner than the Stewmac stuff). I want to make sure as I
jam wires through this channel, the foil won't rip, so I double
reinforce it. This time, I put the sticky side in so that as I slide
the drill bit through the channel, the foil can slide into the hole all
the way through to the other side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p195419266-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then smoosh in one of the sides, so the foil can be pushed through.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p39138680-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And then push the drill bit through along with the foil tunnel.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p218336668-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p145775087-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
It may take some creative use of tools to keep the tunnel from
collapsing while opening it up so you can solder the edges to the foil
shielding on the cavity walls.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p313680098-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, shielding is complete. . . everything soldered together and tested for continuity.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p56426262-5.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
<br />
<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-22044900694490657882012-08-16T01:51:00.000-07:002012-08-16T01:51:41.874-07:00Basses for Newbies - Bass #5So, curiosity killed the cat, and this cat was very curious indeed this weekend.<br />
<br />
#5. . . something's a little different about this guy. I ended up
picking up 2 "Mexican Standard" jazz basses this weekend locally. I
backed out of the deal I previously almost got into from the classifieds
here on TB. At any rate, #5 is a 9.56 lb. dark burgundy metallic copy
and set me back $235.00 . . . the other one (black) set me back $300.
Both is great condition.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p868034828-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
One of the reasons I decided to pick up 2 Mexican specials was to see
what the Fender thing was all about, plus, I figured if any wealthier
type students really want the Fender name on the headstock, they can
have it. One thing that became clear immediately was the neck pocket on
the MIM is much better than any SX I've seen so far. Quite simply,
it's not been messed with. Well, there's a whole bunch of weird, extra
screw holes for god knows what, but it's cleanly cut without hand chisel
gouges everywhere. Amazing what a little masking tape can do for you
on the neck pocket before you spray it. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p540741397-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Neck and pickup alignment were off on this bass, so I had to crank the
neck over towards the E string side. I couldn't get the neck to move
enough by simply loosening the neck plate, so I enlarged the holes in
the body a bit to give me some wiggle room.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p754904041-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And then. . . it was time for some inserts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p945059744-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p979096851-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p820290325-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I think the Fender bodies are a bit thicker than the SX bodies. The 1
1/2" machine screws were too short and the 1 3/4" screws were slightly
too long.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p558336203-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I was sick of using the dremel to cut the screws down, so out came the
grinder. . . I appear to have lost the nut to hold the grinding wheels
on, so the 40 grit sanding wheel that was on there was what I had to
work with. . . and it made short work of the screws. Much easier than
the dremel . . . and with fire!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p556595432-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p584549434-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p573497736-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The neck pocket needed to be shimmed to get the action as low as I like to go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p993745682-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And this time, I put some grease on the ends of the screws to let them
torque down a bit easier. I thought this would help the longevity of
the neck joint as removal/installation will be easier on the insert. I
had some great stuff I use on my wife and my 1911's, so I figured it'd
work great for this application as well. After all, it does say "many
uses - be creative" on the package. . . so I am.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p596050368-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, neck is cranked over as far as it will go and set with the machine
screws and inserts, the neck pickup is still mis-aligned. . . C'mon
people!!! Is it too much to ask to line up the neck/pickups/bridge at
the factory. I guess it doesn't matter if the monkey with the hand
drill is in China, Mexico, or in my living room in California. Luckily,
there's enough slop in the pickguard route to let me scoot the pickup
over a bit more.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p779706755-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, other interesting discoveries. . . the post- 2000 MIM pups appear to be hybrid Alnico/Ceramic jobbies. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p617504344-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p624317067-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, it appears there is some sort of shielding paint underneath the color coat. . . exposed where the grounding lug is located.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p902353408-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Some hour devour skewers to fill the holes so I can re-locate the pickup slightly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p566413524-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p589928136-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
While I'm waiting for the glue to dry, I'm wondering if
these "real fenders" will be worth the time and energy put in or if I'm
going to simply lose my shirt trying to mod them. We'll see. So far,
for my purposes, they are just about as much work as the SX's. . . if
the shielding scheme is solid, I might be able to shave 1 1/2 hours or
so from the build and forgo copper shielding. The frets do seem to have
fewer variations than the SX's and the neck straighter than the
majority of the SX samples I've touched. The truss rod, however is not
as smooth. Finish quality on this copy seems to be better than the SX
and as mentioned above. . . neck pocket is way better. People talk
about Fenders retaining value all the time, but if i bought this very
nice '06 copy for $235 and it sells new on the street for $600, there's
an awful lot of depreciation going on here over the last 4 years. A
$120 SX these days sells for, well, $120-$140 used. . . just some random
thoughts. There are no more non-ursa SX's, and with Rondo pretty much
saying, "We aren't willing to improve our headstocks". . . I'm branching
out. There are many things to like about this Fender. In general
there seems to be better QC in the Fender. Screws aren't stripped,
finish is consistent, neck pocket is good, and the net result is a
better instrument designed to be the "middle-of-the-road" product with
some efforts taken to preserve the brand's reputation. If the pickups
are serviceable and better designed, it may very well come very close to
the SX in final cost out the door after mods.<br />
<br />
Alright. . . the pup alignment is looking pretty good now after the re-set. Doesn't get much better than this.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p1018544702-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Now that I have the neck set, I'm stripping the body prior to fret level
and then shielding. Here's my first peek at the Fender guts. . . not
too bad looking. CTS pots, wimpy little cap, good solder joints, plenty
of wire on the pickup leads.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p782365747-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p961941561-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Interesting how they used the pickup's ground wire to tie in the bridge pickup route's shielding paint to the rest of the bass.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p813566006-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Getting the neck straight and settled to prep for fret leveling. This neck is very straight.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p655247804-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And frets leveled and crowned. . . still have to sand the file marks off
and polish them. The frets leveled really easily on this bass. I only
had to run my block over the frets a few light passes, and it seemed
they just came right up to me. This is very different from the majority
of the SX's where fret leveling is like armageddon. Anyways, that's
all for tonight. . . tomorrow I think I'll be able to finish this bass
out and start in on #6 <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/images/smilies/colors/biggrin.gif" title="Big Grin" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p741908001-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Finishing up the frets after crowning to remove the file marks. . . I'm
still trying to figure out best practices, but for now, I'm tearing off
small little niblets of sandpaper for each fret. . . . 320, 600, 1000.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p221783474-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I zap it with the dremel with a felt wheel and some buffing polishing compound.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p396141696-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
All polished up. . . with the present method, the frets are decently
shiny, but they don't glow like crazy like I know they can. I should
try and figure out a fast method to get a mirror shine on there, but for
now, this works.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p10325903-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I thought I was done, but just to double check before I started
re-assembling, I took my fret rocker out and found a strange thing. . .
the 3rd fret seemed to be high for some reason. . . so, after some
though, I ended up going back over and frets 3-20 to get rid of that
high spot. . .which meant re-crowning and re-polishing all of the frets.
I'm eating up tons of time on this one for silly mistakes. Even with
good tools, there's little quirks that can come back to bite you. <br />
<br />
<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-6785252217976023432012-08-16T00:35:00.004-07:002012-08-16T01:19:11.237-07:00Basses for Newbies - The "SX Effect"After playing the stock SX pickups for a while, we discovered a serious sonic defect. While these pickups have a unique sound that is punchy with a nice mid-forward growl. . .super fun to play by the way. . . when pushed past a certain threshold during aggressive playing, the pickups distort severely. For lack of a better term, we started calling this the "SX Effect". This clipping is very abrupt popping sound as the pickup spikes. It sounds very similar to digital clipping when an A/D converter is driven too hard. In the studio, the instrument sometimes really needs to be feathered to stay just under the level where the "SX Effect" rears its ugly head. Some players would probably never push the pickup to distortion, but if a player is unaware of its existence and finds himself in the middle of a recording session, the engineer may spend hours trying to chase down the clipping because all meters and indeed the input signals would be showing very normal levels.<br />
<br />
While I was unhappy it would drive the cost of the instruments up . . . perhaps quite significantly, I deemed the stock SX pickups unsuitable for the mission which is to deliver an instrument capable of going the distance (an entire lifetime) and stay with a student from beginner all the way through professional use. A few players I know are lucky enough to still have that first instrument, and I wanted to put an instrument into the student's hands that could still be a go-to gigging or studio weapon of choice well into a playing career. After all, there is always ample use for a nice 4 string jazz or p-bass in the studio. Sonically and ergonomically, it needs to be able to run with the big boys.<br />
<br />
The search for a replacement pickup lead me to a conversation with Carey Nordstrand of <a href="http://www.nordstrandpickups.com/" target="_blank">Nordstrand Pickups, Inc.</a> through and introduction from a friend who was developing his electric guitar designs. Nordstrand is a premium brand, and there was much debate about whether the pedigree and cost of these meticulously spec'd pickups is too high for newbies. They are after all manufactured in the US on state of the art CNC winding machines with the finest materials and processes. In my mind, there was only one way to find out and that was to test them and discover with my own fingers and ears if there is some magic left in pickup development that has not been successfully translated to off-shore manufacturing.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p905419305-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a> I ordered 2 sets of NJ4's and one NP4. We'll see if they make enough of a
difference to bite the bullet and standardize on them. This move would
probably drive the cost of these basses right up to and quite possibly
past the $500 threshold and that's getting into some pretty
non-newbie-friendly territory. I'll have to do a new cost breakdown to
figure it out. The basses have been getting more expensive to source as
well since I have to buy necks now. Certainly, I can sell off the
original fretless necks to offset the cost, but who knows what those
will actually sell for.<br />
<br />
I scrounged around the house looking for some foam, and this is what I
came up with. . . in my plumbing bin. . . a foam rubber seal that looked
promising.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p587360572-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And #4 is the first to get the Nordies. It pains me to see it sitting
there all ready to go without strings, but The Perfect Bass only had 2
of the 6 sets of Dunlop stainless steel strings I ordered, so the entire
order is held up. I do have a set of DR extra life strings I could
throw on there, but I like the Dunlops so much I was thinking of selling
off those DR's. . . plus, they're blue which would be pretty darn cool I
thought on a yellow or blue bass, but might be a bit much on this guy.
It's an exercise of will power to resist using the strings I have on
hand. Testing would give me better data if I stick with the same
strings on all the builds.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p1050124802-6.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Jasaman is coming by and I'm going to upgrade #3 to
nordies. . . we'll have some seat of the pants feedback then. After
that, I think I'll have to get back in the studio and get some concrete
data on how the Nordies perform. If they really do work incredibly
well, I'm game to use them in all builds going forward. If they're
good, but not mind-boggling, I'll continue searching for lower cost pups
that simply do not go into "SX effect".<br />
<br />
Going back into #3 to install nordstrands<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p634699902-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Unfortunately, I had a washing machine meltdown and spent
most of today finding, transporting, and moving, and hooking up another
washer. I borrowed a minivan from my parents and in the car swap, left
my regular bass cab in the car. When Jasaman came by to swap pickups and
test basses, the Acme B2 I had available did not have working mid
driver or tweeter. I was not able to get a good idea of what was
happening tone-wise.<br />
<br />
But, we did find out a couple of things:<br />
<br />
1. The characteristic of the bass has completely changed<br />
2. If our original goal was to achieve that "standard", familiar jazz bass tone, we have hit it right on the nose.<br />
<br />
The Nordstrand NJ4 is now smooth, nuanced, and articulate. It does not, however
punch you in the gut like the stock SX pickup. For me, being relatively inexperienced with jazz
basses, this was a real learning opportunity. It would appear we have
created a very nice vintage clone.<br />
<br />
I couldn't resist and strung up #4. . . had to prove to jasaman that this one "will rule them all". <br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p987106221-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
After Jasaman went home and had a chance to sit with #3 now with Nordstrand NJ4's, he provided some feedback:<br />
<br />
"Chunger was kind enough to hang out last night and install the Nords in
bass #3. I played 3 church services today which gave me a chance to
really check them out. I hate to say it but I am not that impressed.
Maybe I had huge expectations but they are changing the bass way too
much for me. #3 had such personality with the stock pickups and now it
just sounds like a very good Fender Jazz. It sounds great but I think we
lost something by switching out. I'm going to keep them in for a while
and do some more gigs before I yank them out. I'm pretty sure at this
point that they are not making a home in #3. I have been so impressed by
this bass and having a blast playing it. Today was the first time I
wasn't pumped up and inspired by #3."<br />
<br />
"So! I played #3 with the Nords last night at my gig. I played it through
my Walter Woods with an AccuGroove 12. I have done this gig with the
same setup but with the stock pups twice before which gives me something
to compare the Nords to. I was generally disatisfied the whole night
with way too much amp tweaking in search for tone. I'm getting such a
bland and uninspired tone with the Nords. With the stock pups, the whole
band was freaking out at the sound I was getting. It was easy to dial
in and I quickly learned how to make the tone present in the room. I
never quite settled in with the Nords. The bass sounded horrible wide
open so I had to constantly tweak the tone and volume knobs. Chunger
installed the best tone knob I've ever had so that was helpful. I'm not
on a mission to bash the Nords but I'm just talking from my experience
so far. I really wanted to like these pups. Chunger is talking about
unwinding the stock pups a little to see if we can solve the clipping
problem. I'm all for it!" <br />
<br />
And with that feedback, the search for a suitable pickup begins in earnest. chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-4595779249174537802012-08-15T14:20:00.001-07:002012-08-16T20:40:53.609-07:00GDIY 51X Power Supply BuildThis post is part 2 of my <a href="http://www.studio939.blogspot.com/2012/08/groupdiy-51x-rack-build.html" target="_blank">GroupDIY 51X rack build</a>. The key benefit of the 51X platform
is the design flexibility it provides with its 5 supply voltages +/- 24V, +/- 16V, and 48V phantom power. The GroupDIY 51X alliance power supply is a robust design capable of powering 11 devices at +/- 16V to VPR specification. It can also simultaneously power 11 modules at +/- 24V. Not all modules draw the maximum specified current, and very few modules utilize all of the power rails, so with some planning, it is quite possible to power more than one rack with a single powers supply. In this post I will walk through a build of the 1st generation power supply kit. The circuit for the power supply has not changed, but the enclosure configuration for the <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=176_178" target="_blank">current versions </a>have changed a bit.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p597830303-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" class="bbc_img" height="265" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p597830303-4.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<br />
<a name='more'></a> Most DIY projects start out something like this:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="425" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p939911352-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The first thought that crossed my mind when unpacking the box was, well.
. . am I ever going to get to the actual parts? Jeff Steiger packed
everything really well. Despite UPS's best efforts to damage the parts,
everything came in just fine. Excellent!<br />
<br />
My 2nd impression was,
"Are you kidding me? This stuff is absolutely gorgeous!" I'm not an
experienced electronics guy by any stretch of the imagination, but I can
tell when something is well thought out or highly functional, but this
kit goes well beyond those metrics and I get the impression it is a
point of pride for the guys who put it together. Simply uncompromising
in every detail. What an absolute treat to assemble.<br />
<br />
Alright. . . it's really hard to get this case wrong, but I'll do my best! Fish these 2 pieces (back and side)out of the pile.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p703243624-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
There is only one type of beveled machine screw for this case, and they come packed in a baggie like this:<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p890701392-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
first gratuitous photo. . . threaded inserts for machine screws? There's all kinds of awesome sauce going on here.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p1065555640-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Put the two pieces together at the corner. . .<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p663848541-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And then screw together. Holes are self aligning, so I went ahead and torqued them down.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p566462179-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Same procedure for the opposite side panel.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p1009175876-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Then, find the front panel which happens to be quite lovely.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v26/p803227064-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p957155167-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Make
sure to position the hole for the Neutrik connector behind the "48V"
marking, and the large square cutout behind the power switch location.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p667420645-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And screw the front panel in with 4 screws.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p927973532-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Then, locate the bottom panel. . . and again, marvel at the details. . <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p990438956-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v26/p1039521606-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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The standoffs are built into the panel. . . super cool. . . back side of the standoffs:<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p857018743-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Flip the case upside down, and place the bottom panel. Align the divot for the toroid on the "power switch" side of the case.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p656512973-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And. . . apply screws<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p592015792-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
voila! One power supply case. Now, it is incumbent upon me to make
the insides look just as nice as the outsides. That's a tall order, but
I'll certainly give it my best effort! Seriously, the GDIY team has
really outdone themselves on this enclosure.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p748334795-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p728398146-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p807177456-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p690762885-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I'm going to attempt to stuff the PSU without mucking it up too
badly. The first thing I do is identify and sort the components. Being
as my diagnostic skills are not quite up to par, I put a premium on not
mixing up the pieces and getting it right the first time. To that end,
here is what I do:<br />
<br />
I make a little card identifying the parts.
.. for resistors, I sort by color code and by testing on multimeter. I
re-use the cards when I build another one. For this PSU, I will be
doing at least one more.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p538844373-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v26/p852192983-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
here are the electrolytics:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p924465595-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p833561488-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
All of the ceramic caps on this PSU are the same:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v26/p807123971-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
As well as the film caps:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p987881764-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and. . .the cat wants to help a bit. .. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p910057007-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Note, there are 2 types of IC's. . .<br />
<br />
This is IC1 for the 48V<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p997245027-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
and this is IC11, IC21, IC31, and IC41 for the other voltages:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p542911110-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Here are the 1K trimmer pots:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p846054936-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the B80R diode (BR1)<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p543734933-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Now that I have my parts identified and sorted, I can start stuffing the
PCB. I've found it sometimes helpful to look at the PCB and stuff it
from the "shortest" components to the "tallest". That way, I have a
good chance of easily reaching everything I'm installing. I'm sure
there are many correct ways to install the parts. This is just how I
did it, and it worked fine. So, I started out by putting in the
resistors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p715049885-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And then, the small diodes:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p867381144-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I went for the ceramic caps and the BR1 diode. . . Note the markings on
the PCB ~ and + to position BR1. They correlate with the markings on
the part.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p710902455-4.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p543734933-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, ceramics and short diodes are in:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p781618068-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I installed the film caps:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p596423065-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, the terminal blocks and trimmer pots:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p663973303-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then,
I installed diodes BR11, BR21, BR31, and BR41. . . the tall ones. .. as
well as some of the electrolytics. The electrolytics have polarity, so
please note the side of the cylinder with the large line and "-" signs
inside. This is the "-" side of the capacitor. Also, the longer leg
corresponds to the "+" side of the capacitor. The PCB is marked with a
"+" to indicate the correct polarity.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p973713811-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
2 more electrolytics:<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p586748227-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And
then, I went ahead and prepped the heat sink and IC1. . . make sure to
use the plastic insulating washer as well as the insulating pad. Test
to make sure there is no continuity between the mounting screw and the
metal face of the component.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p846973217-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
After the part is secured to the heat sink. . . I soldered both to the PCB<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p58277040-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I installed the 4 large electrolytics.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p141019140-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And,
at this point, the PSU is stuffed with the exception of the regulators
for the 4 main voltages that will mount to the large heat sinks and get
jumpered into the PCB by wires.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p385333001-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Humans win!<br />
<br />
Next, I needed to figure out how to wire everything together inside the
case. . . All of the necessary information is available on the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=36874.0" target="_blank">official support thread</a>. Much of it is a bit confusing to me, so i decided to
make myself a little road map of all of the PSU internal wiring to sort
it all out in my head prior to diving in. Please note, the colors
indicated on the Toroid correspond to the unit Jeff Steiger supplies to kit
builders in North America. If you purchased your kit from a
different source, your color scheme may be different. Because of this, I
tried in my sort of "semi-literate" fashion to indicate primary and
secondary windings on the toroid so that this map can be translated to a
different toroid without much hassle. If for some reason the photo here does not publish large enough to read, here is a link to the <a href="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v9/p177104910.jpg" target="_blank">full resolution image</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p177104910-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
First, I prepped the heat-sink mounted regulators for installation. I
felt these connections would be very difficult to solder after mounting
in their final positions, so I did them flat on the bench.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p287700903-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
There
is no rhyme or reason to my color choices. I just wanted to keep it
consistent so I don't reverse them when soldering to the PCB.<br />
<br />
And, a bit of shrink wrap:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p375506617-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I mounted to the heat sinks and bent the tabs 90 degrees for the wires
to clear the case. I'm not sure if I got the order correct for the
washers, nuts, and lock washer, but this seemed to work just fine. Just
make sure the insulating washer is installed properly and there is no
continuity between the screw and the silver tab of the transistors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p145061113-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
These
are the screws used to mount the heat sinks to the case. Notice the
threads are slightly tapered. The holds drilled in the heat sink are
not threaded, and these screws kindof self-tap a bit as they go in, so
be careful to apply enough downward pressure with the screwdriver and
not strip them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p485502316-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p138313812-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p114705425-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p505444123-4.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
Here, the voltage regulator leads are soldered into the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p555086604-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
With
all components electronic connected on the PCB itself, I move to the
A/C side. . . 1st step, figure out what orientation to put the toroid.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v13/p873785323-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Toroid is located:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v24/p866738391-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I looked for the most difficult to reach connectors, and started
hooking up there because these leads would be extremely hard to reach
later. Following my map, I proceed as such with the 240/120 voltage
selector switch:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p737259513-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p594636186-5.jpg" width="425" /><br />
<br />
And,
the A/C side is complete. . . the board powered up, and I was able to
test and trim voltages. There were a few more safety items (connector
sleeves and such) included in the kit that I did not utilize because I
felt some of them would have potential to crowd the connectors when
installed, and sometimes the exposed leads are dangerous, but I'd rather
be able to see them to visually verify that things are proper.
Personal choice. Please remember to disconnect the power cord at this
point after trimming voltages or doing other diagnostics before diving
back in!!!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p1018874573-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v15/p690660789-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p961062429-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the DC side, again, I took a look to see if I could identify the
most difficult solder joints and start from there while I have access.<br />
<br />
I
went with attaching resistors to the LED leads first. After thinking
about it for a little while, this is the method I came up with. I'm
sure there are hundreds of correct ways to do it. Note, I tried testing
the LED polarities first by connecting directly to the +16v and ground
from the PCB, and the result was a very bright LED for a second, and
then a very dead LED. Newbie me didn't know that you had to have the
proper resistor in place. Luckily, I had a spare LED, so I threw that
in without problem.<br />
<br />
Note on LED resistors. . . in order to not
buy extra resistors, the 5 resistors used for the LED's should not be
populated on the PCB, but used on the the external LED's. Because I had
very little understanding of the PCB when assembling, I just fully
populated it. So, because I had ptownkid's kit on hand that I was not
going to use in a PSU build, I used the resistors for the external
LED's, and also installed the provided LED's internally on the PCB, so I
could have shiny green lights inside <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" />.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v18/p718244101-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, resistors are in:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p814425623-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next
I went after the ground connections on the indicator LED's, and the
methodology is similar. I found that the solder does not stick to the
alligator clamp.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p1002582063-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, ground leads are in. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p734675859-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next,
I installed the cable control ties loosely and soldered in the input
side of the fuses. . . and threaded the wires through towards the PCB DC
outputs. I used some additional cable ties to clean up the run
starting from the fuse side and working my way to the PCB side. I then
cut off my excess cable with a bit of slack to spare at the PCB side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p953500084-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Again,
referring to my map, I soldered my 7 pin Neutrik connector with the
other half of the kit-provided wires that I just cut at the PCB side of
the run.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p629392287-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After
evening out the cables and roughly cutting my excess off, I taped the
cable ends together with the exception of the ground an chassis lead (go
directly to the PCB lugs). I then threaded the cable bundle through
the rear cutout, through the cable ties towards the fuse side.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Next,
I tidied up the cables and tightened down the cable ties from the
neutrik connector toward the fuse side.. . then, I carefully cut and
soldered the fuse output leads which also happen to connect to my LED
resistors. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v22/p690947198-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
After
this, all that's really left is to cut the leads at the PCB side, strip
and tin the leads, and connect as per the map. Note, I left a bit of
slack at the Neutrik connector which made he whole internal layout not
as pretty as it could have been, but knowing me, I will find a way to
need to take that connector out someday, and it would be a pain trying
to solder, de-solder, or otherwise tinker with that Neutrik connector
after it's in the chassis without enough slack to pull it out.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p1016740960-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I insert the proper fuses. . . 1.6 amp for + - 16v, and + - 24v. 125mAh for 48v.<br />
<br />
And, fire it up!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p940622594-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
PSU
complete. What a great 1st DIY project. I couldn't have been happier
with the result and am glad to add my little contribution to the
collaborative effort. The internals I think look decent. . . there are
cleaner build examples, but I did what I could and hopefully did not
embarrass myself but try to set a high bar and do this project justice.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p603971788-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I just need to make my 7 pin DC power cable, and PSU unit 1 will be online and fully operational.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
One last detail, and we should be all wrapped up here.<br />
<br />
I'm using
my 8 conductor 20 AWG shielded marine grade cable instead of the kit's
because, well, you never know when you'll need to use your GDIY 51X rack
in salt-water environments <img alt=";D" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/grin.gif" title="Grin" /> Actually, it's just because I bought the stuff, and figured it couldn't hurt to have shielded cable.<br />
<br />
I'm
using the bare shield wire in the cable for "chassis" connection, and
running that to the jack casing as well to complete the shield. Might
as well be thorough.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v19/p670575032-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, here are the rest of the wires soldered in as neatly as I could get them:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v25/p34063126-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
trim off 2 excess wires from the cable because it's 8 conductor plus
the shield. . . since I'm using the shield wire on pin 1, I have 2
extra.<br />
<br />
then, same for the female side of the 7 pin connector. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v23/p959510858-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, there it is. . . last piece of the puzzle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p955425050-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and what better way to follow up a successful power supply build than with another one while the process is still fresh in the mind! Here is an internal shot of build #2. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v26/p959310036-4.jpg" /> chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-75614899904991947922012-08-15T02:26:00.002-07:002012-08-15T13:04:29.943-07:00GroupDIY 51X Rack BuildThe <a href="http://www.51xaudio.de/alliance/index.html" target="_blank">GroupDIY 51X Alliance</a> is a collaborative, cross-continental effort within the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/" target="_blank">DIY audio community</a> to produce a new standard that is compatible with the popular API 500 series card format but adds some cool features to support a broader range of designs. The original API 500 series rack utilizes a 15 pin edge connector and supplies +/- 16V power rails as well as +48V phantom power. At the heart of the 51X standard is the use of an 18 pin edge connector that allows the top 15 pins to remain identical to the 500 series cards and retain full compatibility but the bottom 3 pins allow for the addition of +/- 24V power rails. This innovative feature allows for the easy design and development of modules that natively run on +24V like NEVE, Neumann, and Telefunken based circuits. It also allows for devices from Forsell, John Hardy, and APP Studio to utilize the higher power +/- 24V rails. <br />
<br />
The 11 space GroupDIY 511 rack is in its 4th production run, and there are now over 300 units in operation around the world. In the wake the successful launch of this standard within the DIY community, a slew of new designs and kits have emerged. For my part, I simply happened to be exploring the idea of DIY while the rack kit, power supply, power transformer details were being finalized by capable 51X Alliance members in Germany, UK, and the United States.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="266" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v52/p475925571-4.jpg" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a> My build is a 1st generation GroupDIY 51X Alliance complete kit with its 2U rack mount power supply. While the power supply circuit and onboard electronic components have remained the same, the form factor and layout of the power supplies have evolved since my builds. Jeff Steiger from Classic Audio Products is the North America distributor for the current <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=176_178" target="_blank">floor-box type power supply kit</a>. Jeff also supplies the <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=87_89_182&products_id=368" target="_blank">11 space 511 rack kit</a> to North America. Orders outside of North America are handled by sending email to <a href="mailto:kitorder@51xaudio.com">kitorder@51xaudio.com</a> . Currently, the floor box power supply and a dual power supply which incorporates two complete power supply PCB's in a single 2U rack enclosure are available for purchase. Even though the kits have evolved, I felt it is still valuable to post about my 1st generation build the quality of the kit is absolutely uncompromising making the finished product quite timeless. These kits go well beyond the level of "good product" and are truly a point of pride for the people behind them.<br />
<br />
I am currently running two 11 space racks and two 1st generation power supplies in studio and quickly running out of space. At this rate, a fully detailed build thread of the current floor box PSU will be happening soon.<br />
<br />
As the 511 rack kit was my very first electronics DIY project, there were a few mistakes made, but in the end, the rack turned out quite robust despite my newbie errors. I am glad I got off the sidelines and jumped in with both feet to play with the rest of the kids.<br />
<br />
Every journey begins with a first step:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p191025668-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Everything seemed excessively well packed, and I went about seeing what I had. I heard that the rack PCB was thick to reduce flex as modules are inserted and removed, but in person, it's pretty impressive.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p276003705-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
At the time of my rack purchase, the power supply kits were still under development, but the circuit and PCB had already been finalized and were available.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p507953405-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The custom transformer (with the necessary windings to supply +/- 16V, +/- 24V, and 48V) looks massive, and righteously priced to boot. This is the North America variant. Due to the weight and subsequent cost of shipping for power transformers, they were sourced from different vendors for Europe and North America.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p378141536-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the little Neutrik connectors seem pretty trick and took some time to source at volume.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p54926379-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
All of the kit screws were well packed and clearly labeled. The only unclear thing was where they all went on the rack.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p469881636-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
A big 'ole table of full of confusion for me to try and sort out <img alt="???" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/huh.gif" title="Huh" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p515748255-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
No instructions included, but I've shopped at IKEA before, so this shouldn't be impossible to figure out, right?<br />
<br />
Turning
the metal bits around a few times, I determined top and bottom panels
are identical, and the front side has holes appropriately spaced for the rack modules to mount.<br />
<br />
The side panels have a
series of 4 holes near the front face to mount the rack ears. . . so,
having oriented myself as to which bits go where, I needed to figure out
which screws go where.<br />
<br />
These ones (4-40) go on the side panels and the rack ears.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p303794787-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Keeping
in mind which side is front and which side is back, but easiest way I
could see to start was on a corner like this: (Notice the front side is
face down in the picture. . . note on the larger metal (top and bottom
pieces) there are fewer holes than on the back which is facing up than
the front which is face down. . .and on the side piece, the 4 holes for
the rack ears are down towards the white towel)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p301812807-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
installed one side with 4 screws installed loosely so the
pieces could still shift. That way, I could leave slack for the other
panels to align as I screw them together.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p323168460-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Other side. . . same routine. 4 screws loose.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p219298216-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p128089232-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
These M2.5 screws are the ones that fit on the back panel. They also fit into the Neutrik connectors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p97224283-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
With
the panels installed loosely, I can shift everything around until the
holes of the back panel align. I'm not putting all of the screws in
yet. . . just enough at the sides and particularly at the corners to
align things. I install these screws loosely as well for now.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v6/p508205214-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p178628714-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The
rack ears don't seem to effect the overall alignment of the enclosure, so I
tighten those down to final torque right away using the larger screws that are bagged
with the hex nuts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p88419766-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
had to go dig through my other ordered items because I wanted something
to align the front side of the case before I tightened down the side
and back screws to lock everything together. I ordered 2 preamp kits
from Jeff. . . well . . . because I don't have any 500 series modules,
and as pretty as a box is, it'd be pretty boring by itself.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p476332558-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
These pan head 4-40 screws are for the front module panels.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p2757629-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Since
the face plates that Jeff supplied with his kits have beveled holes, I
figure they would be self-aligning. I went ahead and screwed 2 face
plates in at the 2 edges of the case to align the front face.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p15168570-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
With
the front and back panels squaring up my box, I now tighten down the
side panel screws to final torque and install all of the screws.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p430171908-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
I
may be totally wrong about this, but it seems to me the rack ears would
bear the brunt of the load when this unit is mounted up, so I assumed
the hex nuts are for the 8 rack ear screws. I do not have a small
enough socket set to install these, but if you have one of those
screwdrivers with interchangeable bits, the nuts fit perfectly in the
screwdriver's bit socket.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p273914035-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p189196299-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p151186154-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Box assembled. . . Humans win!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p31818431-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, I turn to the backplane PCB. Here, I'm installing the 18 pin edge connectors.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p1016860381-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
There is a little bit of wiggle on them. . . no that
it probably matters, but I tried to center the piece in the holes and
the put something on the PCB to hold it in place while I soldered.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p814446199-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p1022315285-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Now 10 more!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p883493292-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next
I placed the Neutrik connectors is. .. they seem to have a pretty tight
tension fit into the PCB. I made sure to seat the connectors all the
way to their stops. Do NOT solder yet. It would be an absolute nightmare trying to attach this to the enclosure back panel if they are soldered in at this point.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p925157687-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p618505398-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I fit the back panel on to align all the connectors. . . the top row was pretty tight.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p1050814471-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Checking to verify that my connectors are still all seated fully to the PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p902525856-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Then, I put all the Neutrik connector screws in. I don't know if that was absolutely necessary as everything seemed aligned pretty well without the screws, but I'm sure it did not do any harm.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p1048902091-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Making sure to use these screws<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p97224283-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, flip the whole thing over.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p932214039-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This is how the pins look from the back side. The PCB is so thick the contact pins barely potrude.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p665308302-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, with the enclosure back panel attached, solder all of the XLR connectors into the backplane PCB.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v18/p984566800-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p1058314162-4.jpg" width="426" /> <br />
<br />
I went to a local Fry's Electronics and picked up a few
small do-dads to try and get my rack buttoned up while waiting for PSU
parts. What follows is probably not the best way to do things, but the
store was out of straight headers, so I purchased some angled ones. I
probably would have just bought both if they were available. I
remembered reading that some folks has clearance problems with the
straight headers on 1 particular 500 series module. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p794637352-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
These were pretty easy to cut to proper length.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p773010055-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v16/p639529212-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, I jammed the little plastic tab down with my thumbs<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p836533145-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p915791627-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
. . .and figured out I probably have a little bit of a clearance problem on the stereo link with this arrangement.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p855350641-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
So,
because I was in a bit of a hurry, I decided to "hack" the parts to
work even though buying a proper straight header would have been the
proper way to go. I thought about it for a little while and decided it
would be difficult installing and removing the little shunts sideways with my hand deep
inside of a rack, so straight up (as designed) seemed the be better.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p834299638-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p948812682-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p575633214-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
. . . and, I have plenty of clearance on the back side with these for soldering.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p872349277-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
These
would have been much easier to solder in prior to the XLR connectors
going in. If building again, I would have definitely done it in that
sequence, but a little patience got the job done. . . not the cleanest
solders in the world but the multimeter meter tells me the joints are looking ok.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p1009948867-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p551092297-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This kit allows the user to choose various grounding options with the jumpers. For now, I have pin 1 to ground, but I'll probably put pin 1 to
chassis and then check to see if phantom power is working properly as my
feeling I get from reading suggests this is a more "proper" way to do
it. If I get noise or phantom power problems, I can change it over to
the other configuration and try.<br />
<br />
For my power connections and wiring up the 7 pin Neutrik connector, I am going to use this configuration:<br />
<br />
pin 1 = Chassis - brown<br />
pin 2 = Gnd - red<br />
pin 3 = +16V - orange<br />
pin 4 = -16V - yellow<br />
pin 5 = +48V - green<br />
pin 6 = +24V - blue<br />
pin 7 = -24V - violet<br />
<br />
well, I guess it couldn't all go without problems. . . and the problems I had were with these connectors. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p635600139-4.jpg" /><br />
<br />
I
think they were not designed to fit 16 gauge wire. And, I probably
shouldn't have been using 16 for this anyways (stiff and thick), but
it's the one gauge that I had in pretty colors. Next time, I'll just cut a
chunk of 8 conductor 20 awg off of my 7 conductor PSU wire and split up the strands
and use those for internal hookup if I want all the pretty colors.<br />
<br />
Back side of the connectors and I've changed the pin 1 grounding to chassis.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p969680015-4.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Front side<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p952874504-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
7
pin neutrik soldered up. I tried the best I could to create clearance
on the back side while using the silly 16awg wire that I will not do
again in this spot. I simply followed resistor color code numbering on
the Neutrik pin positions. I also did a little pigtail from pin 1 on
the connector (chassis) to the jack housing. I hope that's proper. I
guess I'll have to look that up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p716026345-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p717312044-4.jpg" width="640" /> <br />
<br />
Unfortunately, I used the wrong gender connector and had to go back and change it out. The reason you should not use a female connector on the rack side is the male connector on the cable side may be hot and accidentally get shorted.<br />
<br />
I also bought a few of these little custom Neutrik plates from Redco
(they can be ordered to say whatever you want). These "spacers" will
help create a little bit more clearance on the back side of the
connector which is the primary reason I bought them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p790625241-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Screws
for the neutrik. . . the Neutrik goes on the plate, and I decided to
stack the label plates to give me a little extra wire clearance without
looking ugly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v12/p773557247-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p675099822-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p703267201-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
So,
it was all going to be down hill from here. . . simply screw in the
wires to my terminals, button everything up, and we're done. . . First
problem was I did not leave enough slack on the wire tails to maneuver
easily. . . next time, I should definitely leave another 2 inches or so
to make things much easier. . . and then, on the 3rd wire, one of the
screw terminal blocks stripped, and I was hosed. The screw did not have
enough threads to clamp down with a 16 gauge wire installed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p580548373-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
don't have proper de-soldering equipment, so these terminals didn't
come out too clean. Good thing these boards are built like tanks. I
was really hoping not to utilize that particular feature <img alt=":P" class="smiley" src="http://www.groupdiy.com/Smileys/default/tongue.gif" title="Tongue" /><br />
<br />
So,
after this, I re-thought my strategy and decided to solder wire
directly to PCB. . . The board has now been compromised so repair will
be more difficult. The front side of the holes have less damage than
the back side of the PCB. . . I figure with 16 gauge wire, if I ever
need to go back in for repairs, and really need to remove the Neutrik,
I'll just cut and splice on the installed wire as that is pretty robust.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p620495505-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, my final clearance is not too shaby so the spacer plan seems to have paid off. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p984729626-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I
soldered from the front side, and this is a shot from the back side. . .
not too pretty, but I'm hoping it'll hold. I poked a bit to make sure I
had continuity and no weird shorts.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p334726916-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p334726916-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
And, finally, it was time to assemble the completed rack.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p800526220-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v22/p772571277-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v25/p669326584-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, my cat decided that the Redco box was a good place to sleep and hang out.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v15/p1069491818-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p603951279-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Quite a few m2.5 screws go in the back side. . . (the back side screws are all the same even on the perimeter)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p775210453-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, humans win! (except for the incorrect female neutrik power input jack that I need to change to male).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p882467538-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v19/p616759569-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p882458606-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Well. . . had a bad feeling that this wasn't going to end up as clean as
I like. . . on my own, I would probably have left the female Neutrik,
but since I know people are watching the thread, I figure I'd better
make it right even if it ends up a bit messier than I like. Guess I'll
just have to buy another rack and do it right. <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p530410538-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Old connector is off.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v5/p170308850-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
At
this point, I realized that the male connector has much smaller wire
receiver lugs for soldering, so it would be absolutely impossible to get
the 16 gauge wires in. I had to go down to something smaller. This
time, I did what I should have done from the beginning (would have saved
my block terminals also!). . . gut a piece of my 8 conductor power wire
and use the 20 awg individual wires.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p172948827-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v7/p301681078-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And, spliced in. . . <br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24/p360416409-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
definitely not as clean as before, but solid I think.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v7/p414831617-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
and. . . after many errors and setbacks, humans win!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v6/p49507584-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Let's try this shot again this time with the proper connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p218287339-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
After running the rack for a while, I ran into a problem. Everything was working well until I built a
Classic Audio Products LC53A EQ which has a full metal case as opposed
to just an L-bracket like most kits I've assembled and run in the rack.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v51/p259165415-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Anyways, the LC53A is built to API external dimension specs and <b><span class="bbc_color" style="color: red;">DOES NOT</span></b>
fit into the GDIY51X rack as built here. Many LC53A builds I've seen
run the module without its metal cover for this reason I suspect.
Knowing the backplane of the rack is 1/8" thick, I figured even with the
best of tools, de-soldering the headers and installing them from the
back side as they should have been installed in the first place could be
a nightmare.<br />
<br />
After some head-scratching, I devised the following simple solution that is minimally invasive and 100% functional.<br />
<br />
Remove the back panel from the 51X rack.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v51/p143181251-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
remove grounding jumpers.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p243820216-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
pry up the plastic portion of the headers with a screwdriver.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v50/p329901056-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And pull the plastic base of the headers all the way off.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p445753570-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This will leave the metal portion free-standing on the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v50/p301394942-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Next, re-install the jumper tight to the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v49/p498598432-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
And cut the leads tight to the top of the jumper.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p521661285-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
This
leaves the jumpers as close to the PCB as possible with the only
drawback being slightly more difficulty inserting jumpers as the pointed
guide edge is chopped off.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v46/p514922938-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Continue with on with the rest of the jumpers until all are trimmed to length.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v51/p451889844-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v50/p75526798-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Nice and low now.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v52/p475925571-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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No more clearance issues whatsoever.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p220650727-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And that was my GDIY 511 rack build. As this was my first DIY project, there were a lot of questions I had and mistakes I made along the way that complicated the build, but in the end, I think the rack is solid and should be able to last a lifetime or more if taken care of.<br />
<br />chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-6355497627134673532012-08-14T01:40:00.000-07:002012-08-14T13:00:39.089-07:00GAR2520 Discrete Opamp Build<br />
One of the true gems in the sea of DIY recording equipment is the GAR2520 discrete opamp designed by Gary Barnett. These are <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=71_72&products_id=136" target="_blank">sold in kit form</a> by Classic Audio Products of Illinois. They are also available fully assembled and tested as an add-on option for CAPI's preamp kits.<br />
<br />
This opamp circuit is a modern component interpretation of API's mid 1970's Huntington era 2520 and operates on bi-polar +/- 12VDC to +/- 20VDC power supply voltages. For my studio, this righteously priced kit has been an absolute life saver due to the sheer number of opamps required for the various preamps, EQ's, and other outboard audio equipment we utilize. While I have never been hands-on with a vintage Huntington 2520, many people who are intimately familiar with the vintage opamp feel the GAR2520 is sonically "hair-splittingly close" to the original that it is modeled after. What I can say is in my experience, this opamp has sounded gorgeous in every device I have tried it in, and as such, it is my go-to baseline opamp for the many API-family devices I build for the studio. There are many fine pre-built options currently available, and people often equate high cost to high performance, but make no mistake, a properly built GAR2520 is capable of holding its own when compared to any of the other top tier API-type opamps available. Slight sonic variations and colors aside, the pedigree of this device is on par with the rest of the field.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v49/p862851650-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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For this article, I will build 2 complete GAR2520 kits to the best of my abilities.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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The first step is to pull the Milmax pins from the kits.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v51/p149248189-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I find it easiest to use a preamp or other device that utilizes the 2520 footprint to align the pins for soldering to the opamp's tiny PCB. This positions the pins
perfectly for soldering and also loosens up the sockets if the device is a new build. The Milmax sockets can be
extremely stiff the first time an opamp is inserted. It is much easier
to insert the pins one at a time like this. The pictured device is a CAPI VP28 dual stage preamp that utilizes 2 opamps.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p365954996-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p262063099-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Place the GAR2520 PCB's onto the pins and solder in place.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v52/p116346179-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Pins
are perfectly aligned and the op-amps are ready to be populated. The
assembly PDF documentation provided with the GAR2520's is VERY thorough and walks you
step-by-step through the process. A steady hand and an eye toward
detail are required. <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p265724066-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p311115191-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v46/p335779515-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v1/p239965264-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v53/p475967697-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p155640111-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p515875232-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p143924925-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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and opamps complete.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v53/p501593375-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p475041548-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p88392839-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
If all went well, like these 2 copies, the opamps should be ready to roll. My only complaint about the GAR2520 kit is full schematics are not provided with the kit, so trouble-shooting a non-functioning opamp is somewhat difficult. But, this deficiency is easily superseded in my opinion by the low cost of these kits, and for that, the DIY audio community owes a great debt to Gary Barnett.<br />
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For more detailed information and a good read, please visit the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33970.0" target="_blank">official support thread</a> for this opamp. chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-59318433295936629082012-08-13T00:49:00.000-07:002012-08-13T11:57:58.472-07:00VP26 Microphone Preamp BuildOne of the most important components of audio recording is a high quality microphone preamp, and one of the problems with tracking drums and basic tracks is the need for a handful of quality preamps for all of the tracks being simultaneously recorded. This is even more critical if you are not recording through a large format console. Luckily, a number of companies and small businesses in the DIY audio community have created some outstanding cost-effective preamp kits. If wisely chosen, these can save thousands of dollars on the way towards building a fully operational, professional recording setup. One of these companies is <a href="http://classicapi.com/" target="_blank">Classic Audio Producst of Illinois</a>.<br />
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In my opinion, the all discrete <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_117_55_56_58_148&products_id=175" target="_blank">Classic Audio VP26 preamp</a> delivers the highest cost to performance value among all of the kits currently available. It also happens to be one of the easiest builds for a first time audio DIY project and was my entry point into the world of audio DIY. In this post, I will try to show the entire build step by step.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p322644613-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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The VP26 preamp is faithful recreation of the legendary preamp circuit found in mid-late 70's API recording consoles and conforms to the now popular 500 series card slot specifications. A VPR compliant rack of some kind is necessary to run this preamp. The 11 space <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=87_89_182&products_id=368" target="_blank">GroupDIY 51X rack</a> kit and its corresponding <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=176_178&products_id=360" target="_blank">power supply kit</a> is an excellent, highest-quality option distributed in the US through Jeff Steiger of Classic Audio Products. The popular 6 space API lunchbox is another cost-effective option. A lunchbox loaded with 6 of these VP26 preamps built with care would make a formidable drum tracking tool and would be a welcome guest or permanent fixture in any recording studio.<br />
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The VP26 now comes in silver face and black face options. It also comes with either a constantly <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_117_55_56_58_148" target="_blank">variable gain</a> potentiometer or <a href="http://classicapi.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_117_55_56_58_147" target="_blank">stepped gain</a> switch options. This post will show the variable gain version with the silver faceplate. A 2520 type discrete opamp is also required for this kit and one needs to be selected upon purchase. My "go-to" opamp is Gary Barnet's GAR2520 opamp kit for a scary-close approximation of the vintage Huntington API opamp that is no longer made. The opamp kit requires a very steady hand and good soldering iron to build and carries with it a much higher chance for newbie build errors than the VP26 preamp kit. For the first time builder, I recommend purchasing a pre-assembled/tested opamp or at minimum a few spare opamp kits just in case one of the your first opamp build attempts fails.<br />
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That being said, let's get started and see what's in the box.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p1033901657-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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First, notice the new Rev. B printed circuit board and a note to use the proper bill of materials for the Rev. B board.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p114807957-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And here are the rest of the kit's components (note: front faceplate missing from photo).<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p399783143-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I decided to follow the general format of the <a href="http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/gallery/VP26/VP2x-Assembly-Guide.pdf" target="_blank">VP26 assembly manual</a> and start with the resistors. . . <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p456693564-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Well, on second thought, I decided to just go ahead and sort all of the components <span class="bbc_size" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span class="bbc_color" style="color: red;">according to the new REV. B BOM</span></span> because there are not that many components in this fine circuit.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p789317813-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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The markings on the ceramic capacitors are very small. Be careful when sorting these and verify that they have all been properly identified.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p1056685423-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Next, elevate the PCB on something and place the resistors. I simply use the L-bracket included in the kit along with random found objects near my work area.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p716868999-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p619147592-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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The
recommended assembly method now is to bend the leads and solder from
the back side. . . <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p587002091-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p1024256822-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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After soldering, trim the excess leads close to the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p661316586-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, I install the 2 diodes in the same manner making sure to place them in the correct polarity. The end of the diode with the solid line corresponds to the arrow screen printed on the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p711715008-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, install the small ceramic capacitors.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p994012967-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p837874063-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . .and then the WIMA film capacitor. <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p747225929-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Axial capacitors go in next. Polarity is important on these. Please
double check and make sure they are facing the right way. Solid line
indicates "-" side of the capacitor.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v30/p870963419-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p727144135-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Then
the radial capacitors go in. . . again, these have polarity. Make sure you
insert the longer of the legs into the "+" marked hole and the solid line on the body of the capacitor corresponds to the "-" terminal.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p757846658-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, sort the hardware. <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p863372269-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Locate the Milmax sockets and place them from the back side of the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p815796730-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And solder from the back side.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p872683256-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p668306431-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, install the screws and standoffs on the back side of the L-bracket to final torque.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v29/p810932769-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And for
the front side of the L-bracket, we install the screws half way so we
can slide the PCB and attached switches/pots over the standoff.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p1041521774-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next,
we attach the gain pot, but remember NOT to solder yet! (Note: I am
building the standard configuration here with a Bourns pot. . . there is
an option for a stepped grayhill switch on the PCB that we will not utilize in this build).<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p1057648412-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And, place the T-pad. . . again, DO NOT solder yet. You may need to bend some of the legs to straighten them in order to get the t-pad to fit onto the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p921300903-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, assemble the main PCB to the L-bracket with the pot and T-pad loosely placed.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p1041812822-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Align the pots to center on the L-bracket holes to the best of your ability.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p730056604-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Install the nuts to lock the pots into final position. . . <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p570394923-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Now, with the t-pad and the gain pot secured in their final positions to the L-bracket, solder as many of the solder points as you can reach.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p684673467-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p807697509-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, disassemble the PCB and solder the remaining lugs from the back side.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v32/p547269394-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v33/p985427055-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, place the 3 push-button switches pressing firmly to the PCB surface<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p928315991-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I solder only 1 center lug on each switch.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p645932414-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Then,
I re-assemble the PCB to the L-bracket and the front panel to check for
optimal alignment of the 3 push-button switches. I slightly tweak the
angle to optimize if necessary. Keep in mind there is still a little
bit of adjustment possible on the front panel positioning, so I try to
get this as close as possible, but still have some room to maneuver if
necessary.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p767916362-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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And, solder in the rest of the lugs. I jump around a lot to keep from overheating the switches during this operation.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p945605273-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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since the ground plane was moved to the front side, it's a little bit
more critical in the rev. B to use some sort of insulating tape on the
input transformer. <br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p134942802-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I purchased some double sided tape from Home Depot for this.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45/p120031238-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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Note the position of pin 1 which is marked with a dot on the transformer's label sticker and clearly labeled on the PCB.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p152534492-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p120579195-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I cut a piece of double sided mounting tape<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p386806512-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
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And apply to the bottom of the transformer<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45/p461163479-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p501754642-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Next, place the transformer making sure to align pin 1.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p52805882-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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And solder from the back side.<br />
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<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p437380562-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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The output transformer is installed next. . . find screws and washers and put in this configuration.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p38364866-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Insert the screws into output transformer from the top side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p409796960-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
While holding the screws in position, flip the transformer over and put 2 more flat washers on under the transformer.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p456056995-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Position carefully on the PCB and place 2 lock washers.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p478837123-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, the nuts go on. . . I found it easier to tighten from the screw side while holding the nuts in place.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p70483398-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
Carefully
trim the output transformer wires to the correct length. . . it's
easier to leave them longer than necessary and trim several times to get
to the correct length than to trim them all at once and too short. . .
if that happens, hilarity would ensue.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p38770160-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Once
length is determined, strip back about 1/8" and tin the tips before
inserting into the color-marked hole and soldering from the back side.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45/p473744898-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I used a couple short pieces of shrink tubing to clean things up a bit.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p258498720-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Repeat for all the other output transformer leads. Lengths will vary.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p470427099-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p186827484-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p230437492-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, grab the excess red and orange leads from the output transformer.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p379110683-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Strip back about 1/8" on the ends and tin them.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p509797718-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . . and solder these leads into the holes labeled "1" and "2".<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43/p186182188-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
now, re-mount the PCB to the L-bracket hopefully for the final time.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43/p342586546-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Use lock nuts this time to secure the PCB on the standoffs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43/p96333053-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
. . .and snug them down.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p326559196-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
voila!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p212538020-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
to protect the finish on the front panel, I used console tape on the sockets to tighten the nuts onto the knobs.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p157807929-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p380526766-4.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
reference the top edge of the L-bracket and front panel to make things straight when tightening the nuts.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p18755396-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, locate the phantom power switch.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p530238524-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Thread one of the included nuts onto the switch. . .<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p319264227-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Then, add the lock washer.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p204130416-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Position the switch onto the front panel.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p186875214-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And secure the remaining nut from the front side being careful not to mar the front panel<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p145905017-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, cut the red and yellow leads to length and solder to the phantom power switch.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p300266081-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The preamp is now complete as far as the electronics go.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p491015579-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next attach the knobs with the allen key set screws.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p80596001-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Locate the push-button caps<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="427" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45/p102017933-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And press them on. . . a little force might be required here. I use the rubber, padded end of my wire strippers.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v36/p458295653-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Next, apply the colored decals to the knob centers to finish up the cosmetics.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43/p523972189-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39/p400030327-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And the VP26 rev. B kit is complete.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v35/p148452406-5.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45/p321164162-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
Follow
the test procedures outlined in the original build manual, and install
the opamp of your choice. Here I'm using one of Gary's Barnet's fine GAR2520's.<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40/p207846944-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v38/p376918197-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
And, fully assembled.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" class="bbc_img" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42/p516969720-4.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Humans win!<br />
<br />
If all went well, the preamp should plug in and fire up right away. If all did not go well. . . uh. . . Jeff Steiger is one of the most responsive kit providers that I know and actively monitors the <a href="http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33501.0" target="_blank">official support thread</a> for this kit on the www.groupdiy.com forum.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-46612654704937129272012-08-12T13:37:00.001-07:002012-08-12T13:37:49.428-07:00Basses for Newbies - Thoughts on Bass #4This one sounded special to me when I played it out of the box. Highly
subjective, but sometimes an instrument just speaks to you. This one
had richness, resonance, and complexity in the acoustic sound that I
liked. The SX's that I've handled range from just above 8 lbs. to just
over 10 lbs. which is quite the range with most falling between 9 and 10
lbs. This one measures on the extreme low end and the body is really a
featherweight for alder.<br /> <br />
The neck pocket is the most often screwed up areas in an SX. There is
no reason with CNC machining that they can't make the neck pockets
consistent and the screw holes precisely align so that necks are truly
interchangeable, but I have yet to see one align on an SX. Also, I'd estimate that only 1 out of every 5 SX's
don't need to be shimmed because the neck pocket is un-molested. This
is only critical if you're trying to get nice, low action. Otherwise,
you'd never know or care. It's just a roll of the dice as far as neck
pockets. Threaded inserts mitigate the effects of the problem to a
large extent I think, but still, mechanically, it's best to not have a
shim.<br /> <br />
I've tried to keep things economical on these builds and refrain from
replacing anything on these basses without reason. The tuners, bridges,
and nuts have remained even though there are better options out there
because they do the job (as well as any vintage bridge). The pups are
falling short and holding the instrument back. I'd like for these
instruments to be capable of serious work, and I think they can stand up
to that kind of scrutiny. If replacement is necessary. .. might as
well do it right.<br /> <br />
At the end of the day, these are still cheap SX's and will never be able
to measure up to a premium bass in terms of fit and finish, but they
CAN be made to handle and sound phenomenal. The tape doesn't lie and I
think there is still unexploited potential in these basses. I'd like to
hear what an SX sounds like with good mics onboard. Right now, the
dynamic range of the instrument is getting cut off by the "SX effect".chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-18128197459662578232012-08-12T13:32:00.003-07:002012-08-12T13:46:12.698-07:00Basses for Newbies - Bass #4 (shielding and controls)I picked up some copper shielding foil on Ebay direct from Hong Kong.
The interesting part about is, while I paid about double what I would have paid to
buy it at Stewmac, I got 30 meters of the 18mm and 50mm width tape while
stewmac would have only given me 6 meters of 55mm and 19mm width.
That's 2x the price for 5x more material. Since the last batch from
Stewmac lasted me about 5 basses, this one should last me darn near
forever if I finish it at all.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p43787678-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Leveling and crowning on #4 went smoothly. . . nothing new, so I figured
it'd be a waste of bandwidth to post pics. . . except I got a new fret
file from Ebay. This one is a diamond file with 150 grit on one side
and 300 grit on the other. The quality of this particular tool is a bit
meh, but it does chatter less than the standard Stewmac fret file. If I
had to do it again, I'd probably just get the Stewmac diamond file from
the get-go. The machining quality and dispersion of the diamond
particles is not exactly top notch on this tool, but it works and it's
cheap to buy (same cost as the standard fret file at Stewmac).<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p336368757-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
The new copper shielding foil went in without issue. . . some
observations. The foil is noticeably thinner than the stewmac stuff
which makes it easier to install in certain ways and harder in other
ways. It's a bit more prone to tearing especially when you want to make
a clean crease into a corner, but it's easier to position and make
turns with. I think installation in general went a bit faster than with
the Stewmac stuff. The adhesive is non-conductive, but since I found
the Stewmac conductive adhesive does not work as well as soldering, I
soldered all of it anyways. On that level, this Chinese stuff actually
solders better than the Stewmac stuff. I don't know why. It could be
the thinner material heats up faster, or when the conductive adhesive on
the Stewmac tape melts, it creates nasty gunk that clutters up the
solder joint. This stuff solders great at the seams and the solder
seems to just flow on nice and smooth. Copper is copper though, right?
It still gets the job done the same even if it's slightly thinner.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p358186017-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I then wired up the bass as much as practical without new pickups
(waiting on Nordstrand order to come in). P-bass. . . so much easier
than the series/parallel jazz bass setup.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v8/p490166490-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p123995286-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p63132858-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
<br />
And just like that, #4 is pretty much done except for Nordstrands and
strings. I made an order for 6 more sets of the medium gauge Stainless
Steel Dunlops as I think they work great and the price is phenomenal.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p34329453-6.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<br />
The one next it is possibly #5 which I picked up on Ebay last month.
This one is going to be another stunner I think in terms of tone because
it's also a super lightweight hovering just a hair over 8 lbs. It
does have cosmetic issues though with a few good dings. Hey, it's "road
worn".<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p316953416-5.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<br />
I've gotta take a moment to thank my friend Marc Games from Marcelo Guitars: <a href="http://www.marceloguitars.com/" target="_blank">http://www.marceloguitars.com/</a>
He makes high end custom guitars and was the guy who suggested I try a
Rondo bass when I first went about looking for something cheap to
record with. . . which in turn put me down this deadly path of SX bass
impulse purchases in quantity. I found out the "good ones" were being
discontinued, and also found out there were no p-basses in stock (the
one I wanted all along), and went crazy buying up a stash of Jazz basses
(seen on this thread) which turned out amazing. I don't think Jasaman
would have been as impressed personally. . . for his playing style with
a p-bass. So the universe conspires to let me dive back into messin'
with basses which I would not have done had there been a nice Rondo
p-bass available for me to buy at the beginning. Going back on topic,
Marc from Marcelo guitars recommended and is helping me get Nordstrand
pickups for the continuing builds here. We worked together for years in
the recording studio and I trust his ears and instincts. The fact that
a maker of high-end custom guitars would recommend a sub $100 bass to
me says a lot for both these low-end instruments and his guitars which
do play and sound fantastic at a premium price point. That is, coming
from someone (me) who can't play squat on a guitar. The demos on his
website were tracked with one of my SX basses. . . that one, a blonde
swamp-ash P/J just kindof just sits around in the studio making its way
onto every recording.<br />
<br />
It comes full circle then with my Rondo adventure. I will keep #4 and
use it as my main bass (along with the crazy 6 string exotic sandwich I made in college) that is
unless someone gives me enough money to pry it out my hands :P. But, I
have 3 more fretless p-basses 2 of which I still need to find fretted
necks for and 3 more complete jazz basses to build. . .so this thread
still has some life left. Every person who has had a chance to play
Jasaman's #3 has wanted one of these for themselves, so I'm confident I
will be able to move all of these basses and that some of them may
actually find their way past the professionals who are hovering like
vultures and make their way to "the children" who I originally targeted
these builds for. <br />
<br />
Stay tuned. . . I am super excited about the incoming Nordstrands and
will most likely be posting up some more sound clips for reference and
comment.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73963325208710640.post-50635626165504472832012-08-12T13:22:00.002-07:002012-08-12T13:22:41.197-07:00Basses for Newbies - plugging a neckAn SX P/J neck arrived in the mail the other day and after
inspection, I thought it would be good to pair it with #4. 3 of the 4
screw holes did not line up, so I started plugging the holes with some
1/4" maple plugs I cut on a borrowed drill press. First, I had to drill
out the existing holes.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v11/p437595725-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br /><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Then, I sanded the plugs since they were a bit larger in diameter than
the holes. I also cut a few channels on the edges of the plugs to let
glue pass by as I drive it in.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p61136821-6.jpg" /><br /> <br />
After the plugs were glued in with some Titebond, I dremeled them level.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p278307997-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
Neck is prepped and ready for fitting<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p314037253-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
I used some shim material to rig something to clamp to without damaging
the frets and still allow 2 strings to be installed for neck alignment.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p390586181-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="640" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p197524574-6.jpg" width="426" /><br /> <br />
I then marked my drill bit to the length of my machine screws<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p270330942-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
With the neck aligned and clamped in place, I drilled the new neck holes.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p138157899-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v9/p411105151-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
And then, enlarged those and installed threaded inserts<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p164669130-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
#4 with it's new blonde, fretted neck installed. . . next stop fret leveling and dressing.<br /> <br /> <img alt="" border="0" class="resizeimage" height="426" src="http://studio939.zenfolio.com/img/v10/p151619088-5.jpg" width="640" /><br /> <br />
I'm really excited about #4. It only weighed 8.19 lbs. (when it still
had its original rosewood fretless neck). . .the neck pocket is one of
the best I've seen on an SX. The fit is snug, and it did not need to be
shimmed which I find is very rare on these. This is the neck that
blowabs was kind enough to sell to me after reading my talkbass.com thread. Thanks!
It's a beautiful, straight neck and it's now been paired with one of
the best SX bodies I've seen.<br /> <br />
I also won 1 rosewood SX P-bass neck on Ebay yesterday and lost 1 jazz neck and
1 p-neck. These seem to to be fetching quite the premium right now.chungerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16480373088248417528noreply@blogger.com0